Builds Megadoomer Build (1 Viewer)

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The 74 is SOA, and I've not noticed much 'wonky' handling. I mean, it's not the 80 in terms of stability, and it seems a little better with the 62 axles under it, but I also went to 35s with the new axles. I am running a sway bar. Not sure I'd run a lifted truck without one.

YMMV
 
The 74 is SOA, and I've not noticed much 'wonky' handling. I mean, it's not the 80 in terms of stability, and it seems a little better with the 62 axles under it, but I also went to 35s with the new axles. I am running a sway bar. Not sure I'd run a lifted truck without one.

YMMV

Are your rear springs flat? Are your shock absorbers new? I wouldn’t consider your rig to have a “low-pro” SOA. Yours looks high enough to fit 38’s.
 
I’m pretty sure 37s would fit if I cut the front fenders. Maybe 38s would.

From what I can tell, the shocks are from 2012. Unknown mileage.

Springs are pretty flat. So much so that I’ve looked sideways at them more than once.

 
So, flat springs with newish shocks and a sway bar probably hep keep it more stable at highway speed. How much of a load have you had on it while running highway speed? These guys were loaded down for a week’s worth of camping, which could have accentuated the issue.(?)
 
I am SOA in the rear and the spring is flat. I am going to take all the BS small leafs out and throw one of the big dawgs from the front pack. Maybe get some arch without lifting too much.
 
So, flat springs with newish shocks and a sway bar probably hep keep it more stable at highway speed. How much of a load have you had on it while running highway speed? These guys were loaded down for a week’s worth of camping, which could have accentuated the issue.(?)

yeah, that could make a big difference.

most load I’ve ever had in the 74 is driver and passenger. I’m not even carrying a spare (yet). Still waiting for @4x4labs to make the bumpers.

As for “highway speed”, I don’t think it’s been over 70mph while I’ve owned it. The 33s were date coded 2008, and I didn’t know what amount of dry rot might be present. With lifted, I didn’t want to blow a tire, so I never pushed it.

It has 35s and 4.88s now, so the effective gear ratio is about 10% shorter, so it’s a bit easier to get out of the left-hand lane. Overall, I think it tracks really straight for a lifted truck. It’s not “80 straight”, but it doesn’t hassle me driving the 10 miles between work and home.

I have driven trucks that require constant wheel correction and they’re a PITA.

A wander could be a number of things: worn leaf spring bushing(s), broken or loose leaf(s), failed shock)s), loose wheel bearing(s), rear axle alignment or rear pinion angle. These last two especially if accompanied by a bit of “torque steer”.

Any time the spring moves, the effective length of that spring changes, and this can cause changes in caster. Could be that someone’s lift without a cut-n-turn or with an incorrect cut-n-turn is the culprit. Could be shackle length, since a flat spring will decrease in overall length in both compression and extension.

sorry for my part of the hijack here.
 
Did I just find the perfect paint?
 
Due to the powdery light absorption layer, the strength of the coating is very low, so glossing and peeling of the coating will occur even with light contact. The painted object may shrink and crack.

on the other hand...

 
Ya, I watched a video where a guy painted a car with it and then put hyper color changing flake on it. Looked really cool but he said to absolutely not paint a car with it.
 
You could try to paint Megadoomer with Vantablack, which absorbs 99.965% of visible light (at 663 nm if the light is perpendicular to the material).

Absorption works from UV (200-350 nm wavelength), through the visible (350-700nm) and into the far infrared (>600 microns) spectrum, with no spectral features.

I see three challenges:
  1. When light strikes Vantablack, instead of bouncing off, it becomes trapped and is continually deflected amongst the carbon nanotubes that comprise the treated (“painted”) surface, eventually becoming absorbed and dissipating into heat. In your truck.
  2. It would cost over $1,500,000 for the paint. This is likely “more than 5,000”, so it may be a budget buster.
  3. You, and everyone else, probably won’t be able to find Megadoomer in the dark.
Also: BMW X6 Gets a Blackest of Black Treatment with Paint That Eats Light - https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a28845406/bmw-x6-vantablack/
 
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Hey Doomer,

I was looking around your build thread and thought you had your fuel tank built by a shop. I just had a stainless water tank built for me quoted at $3,500. Do you think your shop could beat that. With all the talk of DIY tanks, I might try my hand at one.
 
Hot Rod City Garage in San Bernardino, CA 909-884-1950. No website.

I don't know if they do stainless but you can see.
My tank was $500 delivered.
 
Holidays, work has been crazy, side work is crazy. Those are my excuses for a crap update. Sunday I messed around with the crossmemember and got it adjusted, cleaned and painted. Also cut my rockers out. I need to clean and prep the metal before putting the 2x4 tubes on. I will be putting 1.5" round tube step.
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...and that's about all you can do with shrimp.
 

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