John McVicker
SILVER Star
To ‘trigger’ your lights to come on, are you using the old OEM female plug from the driver side or the passenger side?
Lucy Liu, a long overdue 5.3 build thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter EasternYeti
- Start date
-
- Tags
- builds
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #102
Driver side, the passenger has been left unused
at least that’s how i read the Toyota H4 harness wiring diagram
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Ok, that’s how I have mine also. So, that’s not the issue.
James, what happens when you plug the new H4 lights directly into the factory harness? Do you still only get low beam?
If you get both high and low with the factory harness, then your problem is in the relay harness somewhere.
If you get both high and low with the factory harness, then your problem is in the relay harness somewhere.
- Thread starter
- #106
I’ve been wicked lazy with troubleshooting the lights because I’ve been chasing a few things:
The truck made sure to let me know the non-OEM U-Joint I replaced a few years ago wasn’t going to be tolerated anymore...sounded awful. So today I dropped the shaft and Monday two new Matsuba joints from Cruiser Outfitters are going in for good measure.
While I was down there I attached @shipmag ’s braided T-case bypass line and flushed the oil. Thankfully there wasn’t much metal on the magnet so small miracles do exist.
Very pleased with the bypass line. For those that don’t know, when the inner seal from the trans to the T case starts to go, oil leaks down into the T case. The bypass sends that oil back into the trans as it runs fill plug to fill plug. This is CHEAP INSURANCE and is very easy to install.
Shout out to Amsoil for making the best oil container I’ve ever used. They’re like giant juice boxes you can squeeze into any tight place. No more stupid bottles or pumps. Highly recommend
Next project is lights & cleaning up my axle housing for paint
Happy Easter everyone
The truck made sure to let me know the non-OEM U-Joint I replaced a few years ago wasn’t going to be tolerated anymore...sounded awful. So today I dropped the shaft and Monday two new Matsuba joints from Cruiser Outfitters are going in for good measure.
While I was down there I attached @shipmag ’s braided T-case bypass line and flushed the oil. Thankfully there wasn’t much metal on the magnet so small miracles do exist.
Very pleased with the bypass line. For those that don’t know, when the inner seal from the trans to the T case starts to go, oil leaks down into the T case. The bypass sends that oil back into the trans as it runs fill plug to fill plug. This is CHEAP INSURANCE and is very easy to install.
Shout out to Amsoil for making the best oil container I’ve ever used. They’re like giant juice boxes you can squeeze into any tight place. No more stupid bottles or pumps. Highly recommend
Next project is lights & cleaning up my axle housing for paint
Happy Easter everyone
- Thread starter
- #107
The rig is moving under its own power again
Two new Matsuba U-Joints on the rear shaft - thanks to Cruiser Outfitters
8 new nuts from Toyota for the shaft flange bolts, as the originals were deformed from years of hard use and weren’t really 14mm anymore
For those that just want the nuts, and not the entire bolt/washer/nut kit Toyota sells it’s part number 90179-11005.
Two new Matsuba U-Joints on the rear shaft - thanks to Cruiser Outfitters
8 new nuts from Toyota for the shaft flange bolts, as the originals were deformed from years of hard use and weren’t really 14mm anymore
For those that just want the nuts, and not the entire bolt/washer/nut kit Toyota sells it’s part number 90179-11005.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #109
It was a local guy but given that it took them 11 months, you’re probably better off elsewhere.
I got a fantastic paint job sure, but I waited quite a long time for it partly because the work was so tedious and no an “insurance check”
If I did it again it try to get in touch with @kelly saad - a mud number who I wish I knew before I had my work done. You want someone who appreciates these trucks and doesn’t look at it as much of a labor and more of a canvas
- Thread starter
- #110
Build Update,
recently had a few things ironed out with the truck In order to make the 1800 mile trek to Solid Axle Summit 5.
What started with a dyno tune turned into a full blown transfer case rebuild shortly afterwards..everything has since been replaced. Basically was a victim of worn bearings in the case, which caused a gear to kiss my oiler and kaboom
Pretty thrilled with the end result
- Completely new transfer case gear set, half shafts bearings etc…the head, the tail, the whole damn fish
- Sumo 3:1 Low Range gears courtesy of Cruiser Outfitters
- Extended Input Gear courtesy of Cruiser Brothers
End result is zero drive line slop and hopefully it’s good for years to come.
the H55/V8 combo with the 3:1’s is gnarlyyyy and very much worth the effort. When replacing all my gears it cost me $75.00 more to make the jump over the standard gears. For those of you on the edge, just do it
one thing I will note is that my OEM Allen drain plug will NOT fit in the transfer case with the bigger gears, it goes too far into the case and kisses the gear. So I’m using the stock plugs instead
recently had a few things ironed out with the truck In order to make the 1800 mile trek to Solid Axle Summit 5.
What started with a dyno tune turned into a full blown transfer case rebuild shortly afterwards..everything has since been replaced. Basically was a victim of worn bearings in the case, which caused a gear to kiss my oiler and kaboom
Pretty thrilled with the end result
- Completely new transfer case gear set, half shafts bearings etc…the head, the tail, the whole damn fish
- Sumo 3:1 Low Range gears courtesy of Cruiser Outfitters
- Extended Input Gear courtesy of Cruiser Brothers
End result is zero drive line slop and hopefully it’s good for years to come.
the H55/V8 combo with the 3:1’s is gnarlyyyy and very much worth the effort. When replacing all my gears it cost me $75.00 more to make the jump over the standard gears. For those of you on the edge, just do it
one thing I will note is that my OEM Allen drain plug will NOT fit in the transfer case with the bigger gears, it goes too far into the case and kisses the gear. So I’m using the stock plugs instead
Your oil slinger looks chundered.Build Update,
recently had a few things ironed out with the truck In order to make the 1800 mile trek to Solid Axle Summit 5.
What started with a dyno tune turned into a full blown transfer case rebuild shortly afterwards..everything has since been replaced. Basically was a victim of worn bearings in the case, which caused a gear to kiss my oiler and kaboom
Pretty thrilled with the end result
- Completely new transfer case gear set, half shafts bearings etc…the head, the tail, the whole damn fish
- Sumo 3:1 Low Range gears courtesy of Cruiser Outfitters
- Extended Input Gear courtesy of Cruiser Brothers
End result is zero drive line slop and hopefully it’s good for years to come.
the H55/V8 combo with the 3:1’s is gnarlyyyy and very much worth the effort. When replacing all my gears it cost me $75.00 more to make the jump over the standard gears. For those of you on the edge, just do it
one thing I will note is that my OEM Allen drain plug will NOT fit in the transfer case with the bigger gears, it goes too far into the case and kisses the gear. So I’m using the stock plugs instead
View attachment 2718511
View attachment 2718512
Glad
we’re ordered. You’ll be hoping for 4:1’s soon enough.
If the 3:1's are anywhere near as nice offroad as the 4:1's I just put in, you are going to be STOKED that you did the upgrade. The lower gearing totally changes the drive.Build Update,
recently had a few things ironed out with the truck In order to make the 1800 mile trek to Solid Axle Summit 5.
What started with a dyno tune turned into a full blown transfer case rebuild shortly afterwards..everything has since been replaced. Basically was a victim of worn bearings in the case, which caused a gear to kiss my oiler and kaboom
Pretty thrilled with the end result
- Completely new transfer case gear set, half shafts bearings etc…the head, the tail, the whole damn fish
- Sumo 3:1 Low Range gears courtesy of Cruiser Outfitters
- Extended Input Gear courtesy of Cruiser Brothers
End result is zero drive line slop and hopefully it’s good for years to come.
the H55/V8 combo with the 3:1’s is gnarlyyyy and very much worth the effort. When replacing all my gears it cost me $75.00 more to make the jump over the standard gears. For those of you on the edge, just do it
one thing I will note is that my OEM Allen drain plug will NOT fit in the transfer case with the bigger gears, it goes too far into the case and kisses the gear. So I’m using the stock plugs instead
View attachment 2718511
View attachment 2718512
@EasternYeti trying to put together a parts list for a pending LS swap. Which Be Cool Radiator did you use as well, could you help me understand with the Marks Kit part 713025-EK it says designed to be used with their clutch, pressure plate, etc but did you reuse the stock H55F parts and this isn't any issue?
great lookin rig!!! Where did you pick these items up at? Thanks!!!
- New rubber on all doors and windows (Thanks PRP)
- New OEM Tail Light Assemblies
- New OEM Hood Liner
- The Side rear view mirrors?
whats the difference between 3.1s and 4.1s? Im getting the 4.1s myself with LS3 swap...
33% lower 1st gear in low.
If you go up/down steep stuff lower transfer case gears are sweet.
- Thread starter
- #117
1. PRP has everything you need leme know if you need a link
2. From a mud member, these are harder to find than I thought
3. Hoodliner was from Wellsely Toyota , they take good care of me there
4. Mirrors are off a 70 series, City Racer LLC used to carry some - keep an eye on site
- Thread starter
- #118
The 3:1’s are so gnarly I can’t imagine 4:1’s
You’d have to really make use of them on a regular basis imho
- Thread starter
- #119
Little update before a big update
Put two sets of matching parking lights on the truck. Both the lenses and the gaskets are still available new from Toyota
Next pots ready to boil over the next few weeks:
- OEM Key set from Toyota Matt (Driver / passenger / ignition)
- New Exhaust Manifolds
- Front Leaf Springs
Looking for a way to consolidate my relays, I have maybe 8 of them in the engine bay into a weather sealed box, and curious to see what everyone else is using to keep relays nice and tidy?
Put two sets of matching parking lights on the truck. Both the lenses and the gaskets are still available new from Toyota
Next pots ready to boil over the next few weeks:
- OEM Key set from Toyota Matt (Driver / passenger / ignition)
- New Exhaust Manifolds
- Front Leaf Springs
Looking for a way to consolidate my relays, I have maybe 8 of them in the engine bay into a weather sealed box, and curious to see what everyone else is using to keep relays nice and tidy?
John McVicker
SILVER Star
@EasternYeti James here is what I did on my 60. Installed a 80 amp aux circuit breaker for my low intensity aux items, and a aux fuse box…and to your point a 6 relay box to house my relays. Installed the box on the firewall next to the wiper motor. Did this almost 4 years ago & so far it has been flawless. Have since added a rear locker & upgraded to a larger ARB compressor. Also installed this same unit on my 40.
I bought a 6 relay box…only currently using 4 relays. As I remember they also have a 8 & 10 relay box. It was a pain to wire up…but actually pretty straightforward. All the involved dash switches go directly to the relay box with the relays wired directly to the battery.
My 4 relays power the following: 1) A switch that powers my Ham, CB & ARB Fridge. 2) My Hella 4K bumper lights. 3) My ARB Compressor & Rear Locker. 4) This goes directly to my OEM Starter Solenoid.
Let me know if you have any questions.
I bought a 6 relay box…only currently using 4 relays. As I remember they also have a 8 & 10 relay box. It was a pain to wire up…but actually pretty straightforward. All the involved dash switches go directly to the relay box with the relays wired directly to the battery.
My 4 relays power the following: 1) A switch that powers my Ham, CB & ARB Fridge. 2) My Hella 4K bumper lights. 3) My ARB Compressor & Rear Locker. 4) This goes directly to my OEM Starter Solenoid.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Last edited:
