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what's up wit yur 
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Friday now 
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #2,483
Okay, here’s the yarn -
Clocking the mount and pump 90* and running the pickup hose opposite of what I had previously made all the difference. For best results, this required me to build a new mount bracket (which was later coated in fuel tank sealer) and start over with a new hat plate.
The plumbing portion had mostly been worked out so that remains relatively the same.
The electrical side was another animal entirely, and knowing what I know now, can do it again for less than half the cost I have into it now. Lots of special consideration on this part since everything is either submerged or being splashed with gasoline constantly, and only a few types of plastics and rubber are up to the task of sealing, and only certain types of wire are gasoline resistant, the type I used being 14ga SXL. It’s a thick, cross-linked PVC insulated automotive wire, that’s kind of “middle of the road” in price and construction for chemical resistance, with everything better requiring special $400 strippers, which is just a little out of my league.
A couple parts suppliers I’ve been using have plug systems, where you insert a female socket on the hat plate and plug in a male connector from your harness. I may have gone with one of these if I knew I had the space. The route I went with is a bulkhead called a “cord-pull”, probably more familiar to electricians. I bought some chemical and heat resistant sheathing, ran two 14ga wires through it, then ran that through the cord-pull.
The only step at this point not completed is installing the Deutsch connector.
Also picked up some thicker 1/8” cork/Buna-N and remade the hat gasket.
I picked up a bunch of this stuff through McMaster-Carr, which conveniently has an app now.
Continuing on, a couple of M6 riv-nuts now provide a mounting point on the frame cross-member for the adjustable return regulator and Earl’s 0-100psi gauge. The supply and return lines between pump and regulator are installed and secured.
The new 90* discriminator valve is installed with 3/8” textile hose ready to be spliced into the expansion tank and venting system.
The KUS Level sending unit is installed which still needs its Deutsch connector.
One more thing I will probably tackle prior to setting the tub is running the 3/8” hard fuel line up to a point on the frame that would be convenient to mount a filter.
Clocking the mount and pump 90* and running the pickup hose opposite of what I had previously made all the difference. For best results, this required me to build a new mount bracket (which was later coated in fuel tank sealer) and start over with a new hat plate.
The plumbing portion had mostly been worked out so that remains relatively the same.
The electrical side was another animal entirely, and knowing what I know now, can do it again for less than half the cost I have into it now. Lots of special consideration on this part since everything is either submerged or being splashed with gasoline constantly, and only a few types of plastics and rubber are up to the task of sealing, and only certain types of wire are gasoline resistant, the type I used being 14ga SXL. It’s a thick, cross-linked PVC insulated automotive wire, that’s kind of “middle of the road” in price and construction for chemical resistance, with everything better requiring special $400 strippers, which is just a little out of my league.
A couple parts suppliers I’ve been using have plug systems, where you insert a female socket on the hat plate and plug in a male connector from your harness. I may have gone with one of these if I knew I had the space. The route I went with is a bulkhead called a “cord-pull”, probably more familiar to electricians. I bought some chemical and heat resistant sheathing, ran two 14ga wires through it, then ran that through the cord-pull.
The only step at this point not completed is installing the Deutsch connector.
Also picked up some thicker 1/8” cork/Buna-N and remade the hat gasket.
I picked up a bunch of this stuff through McMaster-Carr, which conveniently has an app now.
Continuing on, a couple of M6 riv-nuts now provide a mounting point on the frame cross-member for the adjustable return regulator and Earl’s 0-100psi gauge. The supply and return lines between pump and regulator are installed and secured.
The new 90* discriminator valve is installed with 3/8” textile hose ready to be spliced into the expansion tank and venting system.
The KUS Level sending unit is installed which still needs its Deutsch connector.
One more thing I will probably tackle prior to setting the tub is running the 3/8” hard fuel line up to a point on the frame that would be convenient to mount a filter.
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bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Man! That thing is serious.
Nothing on pigs is easy except breaking them!
Nothing on pigs is easy except breaking them!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Skirt blowing up and it ain't da WIND 
. WOODY 
. WOODY 
Is that a pressure regulator? Are you running too much psi or something? Because the vortex should regulate it for you.
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My motor requires @ #58 of fuel pressure which is supplied from a corvette filter/reg. combo. Where does the Vortec motor regulate the pressure from?
Oh, that's right. Isn't after 2004 they eliminated that return on the motor. Mine is a 2004 and doesn't have it.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #2,496
Another small item crossed from the list.
I bent up a template line with 3/8” copper tubing. The benders I had on hand are ok for the 3/16” brake line, but crap for 3/8’s, so after some hym-haw I went ahead and bought this Ridgid 3/8” tubing bender. It’s not tip-top of the line, but worked fantastic for what I need.
I stopped the line just in front of the spring hanger for the rear axle. An in-line filter housing should sit pretty well in this area.
Eastwood and cheap parts store benders on the left, Ridgid on the right.
Here’s the results of the cheap benders on the practice tubing.
This is what the Ridgid’s results look like
First leg of the hardline installed.
Somebody’s getting closer….
I bent up a template line with 3/8” copper tubing. The benders I had on hand are ok for the 3/16” brake line, but crap for 3/8’s, so after some hym-haw I went ahead and bought this Ridgid 3/8” tubing bender. It’s not tip-top of the line, but worked fantastic for what I need.
I stopped the line just in front of the spring hanger for the rear axle. An in-line filter housing should sit pretty well in this area.
Eastwood and cheap parts store benders on the left, Ridgid on the right.
Here’s the results of the cheap benders on the practice tubing.
This is what the Ridgid’s results look like
First leg of the hardline installed.
Somebody’s getting closer….
Looking great rush! You’ll be on the road in no time.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Dayum! That looks finer than a new set of snow tires!
It is official - I will no longer be cool enough to roll with all these fancy new Pig builds coming out.
I’m glad that last minute drive to the 2017 North Rim Pig Party inspired you. I remember you telling me you’d been considering selling and that your wife had said something like “s..t or get off the pot.” I’ll have to admit I never expected your refurb to reach this level. Incredible work!
Like Pablo I expect my 10+ year old build will be slipping down in the rankings with all you and others are doing these days. Happy to see all these Pigs gaining a new life and all the inventiveness going into the efforts by you and others.
Carry on…
Like Pablo I expect my 10+ year old build will be slipping down in the rankings with all you and others are doing these days. Happy to see all these Pigs gaining a new life and all the inventiveness going into the efforts by you and others.
Carry on…
What he said! As you well know it's a huge undertaking to do a nut and bolt rebuild by yourself. Not to mention while holding down a job and remaining married. You guys rock!
