Builds Fly By Night (12 Viewers)

[RUSH55]

Might effectively reduce the amount of heat transfer though, depending on how the passes are arranged. You might have to move both the inlet and the outlet to keep the cooling the same but, again, that all depends on the internals.

This
I thought for a little bit about having a radiator shop cut the tank off and make a new one with the inlet and radiator cap swapping sides.
But after a little more thought, the radiator is designed the way it is for the most heat transfer. If the inlet was moved above the outlet, 20 - 30% of the radiator would be doing all of the cooling while the other 70% wouldn’t be contributing much.

 

[J Mack]

If the inlet was moved above the outlet, 20 - 30% of the radiator would be doing all of the cooling while the other 70% wouldn’t be contributing much.

There are a lot of down flow radiators that have the inlet and outlet on the same side, for a cross flow it would need to be a double pass to get them on the same side.

Down-flow Radiator vs. Cross-flow Radiator: What is the Difference? * C, G, & J Inc

... Read More

cgj.com

I've always tried to get the larger cross flow style core if I can when dealing with something like a pig.

 

[bobm]

GENUIS .

 

[RUSH55]

Update post with some progress pics and a couple new obstacles.

Got the radiator hoses sorted out. Made an aluminum pipe coupled with silicone hoses for the upper. A 120° and 90° silicone hoses coupled together for the lower.

Installed the Borgeson steering shaft that’s been patiently waiting for a couple years now.

My Ol’ pal @RHINO reminded me a while back that I needed to weld in my lower shock mount bolts, which I forgot again until the shocks came in, so I made some lower mount bolts and got that taken care of, just need to touch up the paint now.

 

[RUSH55]

Wanted to see about getting the drag link installed and came to a screeching halt.

Once again, I had forgotten what I’d done to go from the Jeep Cherokee pitman arm to the FJ55 TRE, which upon investigation, consisted of sliding the lower cut off section of FJ55 drag link and the upper section of a Wagoneer drag link into a piece of pipe and welding them together. Not wanting to go down that wonky “rushed” road, it’s looking like the best overall fix is a completely new steering linkage setup consisting of GM 1 Ton TRE’s and DOM tubing. Ruff Stuff sells a nice kit for doing this as well as the fluted reamer.

Y Link Steering Using GM 1 Ton TRE

Check out the deal on Y Link Steering Using GM 1 Ton TRE at RuffStuff Specialties

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Here’s a pic of the old setup next to the FJ60 drag link. Haven’t read much good stuff about the spring loaded FJ60 ends which is why I’m looking at the upgrade.

 

[RUSH55]

Then there’s this fuel neck overflow port. When I built the new tank, I didn’t think to include a provision for this. Don’t know how necessary it is, and the easiest route is to just cut it off and weld it shut. There is an area next to the fill port on the tank where a bung could be welded on, but that would introduce shavings into the tank when cutting the hole.

Can anyone tell me how critical it is to have that overflow line?

 

[Ol Yeller]

Nice! 2 steps forward…can’t answer the overflow question

 

[RHINO]

on the overflow Q, it rerally depends how the tank is vented, if the tank uses that or the filler neck to vent, its pretty important, on the other hand if its literally just an overflow port it would be more of an inconvenience than anything else, the main purpose is to vent the tank as fuel is being pumped in, otherwise the nozzle could continually shut off and you'd maybe have to fuel up at a trickle.

 

[RUSH55]

on the overflow Q, it rerally depends how the tank is vented, if the tank uses that or the filler neck to vent, its pretty important, on the other hand if its literally just an overflow port it would be more of an inconvenience than anything else, the main purpose is to vent the tank as fuel is being pumped in, otherwise the nozzle could continually shut off and you'd maybe have to fuel up at a trickle.

Okay, RHINO, that makes sense. This setup is vented through the top of the tank with a 1/2” line through an anti-something-or-other valve.
Anti-inversion?
Discriminator?
Something like that.
No venting through the cap.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Are you talking about the diaphragm valve (I think) that's mounted to the crossmember? I'm pretty sure the way that valve works is as follows: The line that goes into the bottom with the pressure gauge "senses" pressure which then pushes on a diaphragm which opens the other line. Assuming my assumptions are correct (and they well might not be), I would be very concerned that valve will allow enough vapor flow to handle the pressure during a fill-up, at least not on High Flow. I think it's worth a call to the tank manufacturer.

Pretty sure the pressure sensing line will not have a dip tube so you can always tee off that connection and use it as a vapor return from the nozzle vent.

 

[RUSH55]

Are you talking about the diaphragm valve (I think) that's mounted to the crossmember?

The anti-discrimination valve has a ball inside of it, which is supposed to block off the vent in case of a rollover. It’s to the left of the oval plate with a black hose coming off of it.

 

[Ol Yeller]

The anti-discrimination valve has a ball inside of it, which is supposed to block off the vent in case of a rollover. It’s to the left of the oval plate with a black hose coming off of it.

Would a tee on that line & then going up to the filler neck help with fueling the tank?

 

[RUSH55]

I think it's worth a call to the tank manufacturer.

Can’t get ahold of them. I think they went under

 

[Ol Yeller]

I think it's worth a call to the tank manufacturer.

Let us know if get through @RUSH55


WDE…tank is home built

Edit, Rush beat me!

 

[RUSH55]

Would a tee on that line & then going up to the filler neck help with fueling the tank?

Thought about that too, just not sure about fuel getting stuck in a low spot on the hose and how well it would drain.
Probably should have added more vents too…
Still could…

 

[WarDamnEagle]

The anti-discrimination valve has a ball inside of it, which is supposed to block off the vent in case of a rollover. It’s to the left of the oval plate with a black hose coming off of it.

Hard to know if that is enough vent without knowing more information.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

WDE…tank is home built

Thanks. I remember that now.

 

[J Mack]

Can anyone tell me how critical it is to have that overflow line?

How fast do you plan to fill your tank?
That line lets the air "burp" escape as the fuel enters the tank, you start backing up fuel in the filler neck and tripping the auto shutoff before your tank is full.
Your 1/2" vent line is likely too small to keep up with the incoming fuel.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Your 1/2" vent line is likely too small to keep up with the incoming fuel.

Yes, I think so as well. 1/2” line doesn’t carry much flow at low pressure, particularly with an obstruction (ball) that the vapors have to flow around.

 

[RHINO]

No venting through the cap.

prolly havent really had venting through the cap since the 50's,,, thats what all those lines and plastic expansion s***e was in the rear kick panel,,, you SHOULD have a valve in the cap though that lets air enter as fuel is used but not escape.