Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It’s amazing what parts you can add/ remove to totally customize your 60 into what you want it to be. At least it drives safely. With the mods I’m making thats what I’m curious about.
 
Thanks. I'm looking into Jeep YJ springs for the front which are about 3" shorter overall then the 60 rears so I can have a shorter shackle up front, these are really too long. That would move my front axle back about an inch, and although I really like it where it is, one inch back won't really take away from the massive approach angle improvement I made.

Oh, I'm also pleased to report the truck drives nice and straight with no steering wander or vibration at +100mph.

Look at YJ SOA springs. I think rubicon express makes them, they are reverse eyelet so it lowers it.
 
Look at YJ SOA springs. I think rubicon express makes them, they are reverse eyelet so it lowers it.
I looked at these just now and it looked like they are primarily for Jeep or FJ40 applications. How long are the springs?
 
IIRC they are around 45” with a centered pin

Yup, i think they’re 44” but you’re right about the centered pin.
I looked into the reverse eye springs but I think they would lower the front more then I’d like. It’s actually perfect where it is now the shackle is just too long. I put the frenched bushing too far forward on the frame. Complete nightmare to change it which is the big caveat to that mod.
 
You moved your rear stock springs to the front, correct?

Right. Well, they are 2.5” lift springs, but they are super worn out and I pulled 3 or 4 leaves out. Should be pretty much the same as stock springs.
 
Added another few feet of exhaust, and a cheap hi-flow cat. I had it dumping right behind the rear axle under the truck for clearance but a ton of fumes were coming into the cab like that. It was kind of a puzzle figuring out how to get it out the back without it going under the frame (crunch!) but luckily there’s just enough room to put a 3” tube between the tank and rear sill over the frame.

Then I was dumb and fit and welded the whole thing at midnight and in a thunderstorm so I rushed and didn’t see that the entire taillight harness was resting on the exhaust, so at 6am on the roadtrip the next morning everything went black :doh: completely melted through, and I guess there’s some shared grounds from the dash.
One more thing to fix! :rolleyes:
45389778-2E5B-4878-9222-28627D444235.jpeg

250E2614-5968-4AC9-9390-35FA89D57AE1.jpeg

8C2311A0-6E5A-4524-A829-0B0747C0803E.jpeg
 
Oh yeah, thing cruises at 85-90 effortlessly with two fingers on the wheel. NV4500 is howling like crazy though so that’s a bummer especially since I just rebuilt it. It has a touch more body roll then I’d like and it has a bit more understeer then I’d prefer so I’m going to to alleviate both those with some rear airbags as a quick easy fix as opposed to sway bars, because I do sway bars then I’ll be doing them correctly which will be a lot of work.

I parked the truck Saturday evening after getting home from
a short road trip, hopped in it yesterday to move it and wasn’t getting voltage to the starter solenoid, or not enough voltage anyways. Just a solid click with the key. Jumped the starter and it fired right up, but I need to fix this. Any ideas? Should just be a straight shot from the key to the starter but I hadn’t looked at the schematic yet.

BB79E6C3-F570-42DB-86F0-54507D2005FE.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Just looked at the schematic. It is a single wire from the ignition switch to the starter. Check your grounds the starter should be grounded and the switch is also grounded separately.
 
Yeah, the ground for the ignition switch probably vibrated loose or something like that. Might be why I lost all my dash lights without the fuse blowing too.
I’ve got great main grounds and power off the battery, they’re fresh when I did the motor swap.
Starter turns over nice and strong when the solenoid is jumped with a screwdriver
 
It’s been awhile since I looked at the FL schematics but I believe the body electrics and ignition are on the same FL. Body electrics work, just not the gauge lights when the headlights are on.
 
Do you miss the character and the feel of the 3fe?

Yeah, I think the 5.3 ruined my truck. I should have just bought a Suburban.







:rofl:

I should have done this years ago instead of rebuilding four 3FE’s.. although if my 16 year old self had done this swap I’d probably be redo-ing everything right about now.
 
What do you mean? Like the center to center distance of the fixed point mount and the shackle mount?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom