Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up

cruisermatt

ランドクル62!
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Couple pics to show the stance since I don’t think I really put any good ones up.
The wheelbase stretch in the front with the bigger opening makes it look kinda funny from the front. It sits pretty much level, maybe 1/4” lower in the rear depending on the surface I’m parked on. I’m considering putting air bags back there though so I can play with it a little. Also to help with the body roll at high speeds.

The power is just stupid awesome. Should have done this years ago. Now it’s just a matter of making the rest of the truck work well around the motor :worms:
Also the mystery origin/mileage FZJ80 fuel pump died on Saturday. New Desnso unit going in on Wednesday I think.

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Hojack

“Roads...where we’re going we don’t need roads”
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It looks great Matt. The front wheel would look better moved back about 2” IMO. Rear looks great and air bags would be a great addition. Have them on my dodge 3500 dually. I can’t wait to drive mine and see it’s quirks to work out.
 

cruisermatt

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Thanks. I'm looking into Jeep YJ springs for the front which are about 3" shorter overall then the 60 rears so I can have a shorter shackle up front, these are really too long. That would move my front axle back about an inch, and although I really like it where it is, one inch back won't really take away from the massive approach angle improvement I made.

Oh, I'm also pleased to report the truck drives nice and straight with no steering wander or vibration at +100mph.
 

Hojack

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It’s amazing what parts you can add/ remove to totally customize your 60 into what you want it to be. At least it drives safely. With the mods I’m making thats what I’m curious about.
 

74fj40

 
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Thanks. I'm looking into Jeep YJ springs for the front which are about 3" shorter overall then the 60 rears so I can have a shorter shackle up front, these are really too long. That would move my front axle back about an inch, and although I really like it where it is, one inch back won't really take away from the massive approach angle improvement I made.

Oh, I'm also pleased to report the truck drives nice and straight with no steering wander or vibration at +100mph.
Look at YJ SOA springs. I think rubicon express makes them, they are reverse eyelet so it lowers it.
 

cruisermatt

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IIRC they are around 45” with a centered pin
Yup, i think they’re 44” but you’re right about the centered pin.
I looked into the reverse eye springs but I think they would lower the front more then I’d like. It’s actually perfect where it is now the shackle is just too long. I put the frenched bushing too far forward on the frame. Complete nightmare to change it which is the big caveat to that mod.
 

cruisermatt

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Added another few feet of exhaust, and a cheap hi-flow cat. I had it dumping right behind the rear axle under the truck for clearance but a ton of fumes were coming into the cab like that. It was kind of a puzzle figuring out how to get it out the back without it going under the frame (crunch!) but luckily there’s just enough room to put a 3” tube between the tank and rear sill over the frame.

Then I was dumb and fit and welded the whole thing at midnight and in a thunderstorm so I rushed and didn’t see that the entire taillight harness was resting on the exhaust, so at 6am on the roadtrip the next morning everything went black :doh: completely melted through, and I guess there’s some shared grounds from the dash.
One more thing to fix! :rolleyes:
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cruisermatt

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Oh yeah, thing cruises at 85-90 effortlessly with two fingers on the wheel. NV4500 is howling like crazy though so that’s a bummer especially since I just rebuilt it. It has a touch more body roll then I’d like and it has a bit more understeer then I’d prefer so I’m going to to alleviate both those with some rear airbags as a quick easy fix as opposed to sway bars, because I do sway bars then I’ll be doing them correctly which will be a lot of work.

I parked the truck Saturday evening after getting home from
a short road trip, hopped in it yesterday to move it and wasn’t getting voltage to the starter solenoid, or not enough voltage anyways. Just a solid click with the key. Jumped the starter and it fired right up, but I need to fix this. Any ideas? Should just be a straight shot from the key to the starter but I hadn’t looked at the schematic yet.

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BMValentine

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Just looked at the schematic. It is a single wire from the ignition switch to the starter. Check your grounds the starter should be grounded and the switch is also grounded separately.
 

cruisermatt

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Yeah, the ground for the ignition switch probably vibrated loose or something like that. Might be why I lost all my dash lights without the fuse blowing too.
I’ve got great main grounds and power off the battery, they’re fresh when I did the motor swap.
Starter turns over nice and strong when the solenoid is jumped with a screwdriver
 

cruisermatt

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It’s been awhile since I looked at the FL schematics but I believe the body electrics and ignition are on the same FL. Body electrics work, just not the gauge lights when the headlights are on.
 
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