Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (4 Viewers)

[77TLCFJ40]

Looks great bro!!! I'd recommend coming up with a way to bolt the side rails on instead of welding them on. They will undoubtedly get bent by someone or something, no matter how thick they are, and it'd be nice to be able to just unbolt them to replace.

That's a great idea!

 

[cruisermatt]

Looks great bro!!! I'd recommend coming up with a way to bolt the side rails on instead of welding them on. They will undoubtedly get bent by someone or something, no matter how thick they are, and it'd be nice to be able to just unbolt them to replace.

I don't know if I can get them out with the body on... They are welded to the frame and the 2x4 is welded to them... They are permanent. Luckily I have access to a frame machine if they get bent I can pull them back and reinforce

 

[cruisermatt]

@GLTHFJ60 wait, are you referring to what's already on the truck or the 1/4 panel protection that's not there yet?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

@GLTHFJ60 wait, are you referring to what's already on the truck or the 1/4 panel protection that's not there yet?

The 1/4 panel protection that's not there yet.

 

[cruisermatt]

Working on my rear sway bar a bit (as I'm starting to be able to make things from a desk now ) as neither the 62 or 80 rear sway bars are going to working well with my setup, the different diff offset of the 80 axle makes the 62 bar not work and the 80 bar mounts under the frame (would interfere with the springs).

Arms are 11", 12" and 13" using each bolt position, aiming for 12" though as that's what the stock bar is about. Same diameter bar as well. So it should give me the about same stiffness of an OEM bar it will just be mounted on the frame instead of the axle. Also going to use 1/2" rod ends for the inks instead of bushings so that should make it a hair stiffer as well. I will probably build a copy of this except using a 1.25" or 1.375" bar for the front. Still need to run the calculations for the front.

 

[brooksfj60]

Looks good, I can't wait to see it done. I am gonna need to do something also.

 

[cruisermatt]

I'd highly recommend this route over the off-the-self stuff such as the Anti-Rock, etc... It's going to cost $50 for the 4340 solid rod and I can cut the rest out of scrap 1/8" and 1/16" on the plasma table for basically free.

The benefit is you are building it to fit YOUR truck, there is no such thing as "universal fit" when it comes to this stuff.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You can use 4340 solid rod as a torsion bar without further heat treating (hardening/annealing)?

How will you attach the torsion bar to the arms? Anti-Rock splines their torsion bars.

Anti-Rock isn't really off the shelf, it still requires custom installation into the rig. You can buy them in different widths.

 

[cruisermatt]

Hold on, I'll get back to you with a longer post after class.

 

[cruisermatt]

I don't like the Anti-rock as they only offer a single arm diameter.

And yes, you are correct, 4340 would need to be heat treated after the arms are welded to it (that answers the attachment question).

However, I may just use mild steel. The shear modulus (stiffness) of pretty much all steels are very close. In fact this chart doesn't even differentiate between different alloys.

 

[orion]

Bumper/crossmember/hitch thing looks really good.

Interested to see the finished product.

- Brian

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You don't want to weld the arms to the torsion bars in case you need to service the system. This is why anti-rock bolts together. Besides, once the arms are welded on, how do you get it on the truck?

Why not machine splines on the arm and torsion bar?

 

[ZGMikey]

Make sure you keep the weight of the rear sway bar you build as close to the weight of the original. If it gets much heavier, you could end up with unwanted oversteer. I'd say a safe bet is something within 10-20%.

 

[cruisermatt]

You don't want to weld the arms to the torsion bars in case you need to service the system. This is why anti-rock bolts together. Besides, once the arms are welded on, how do you get it on the truck?

Why not machine splines on the arm and torsion bar?

It's NOT going through the frame, I'm going to use a set of bushings like these

 

[cruisermatt]

Make sure you keep the weight of the rear sway bar you build as close to the weight of the original. If it gets much heavier, you could end up with unwanted oversteer. I'd say a safe bet is something within 10-20%.

Yep

 

[GLTHFJ60]

It's going through the frame, I'm going to use a set of bushings like these

View attachment 1380652

Right, so if it's going through the frame, you can't have both arms welded on. You work at a machine shop, use your horizontal mill and a dividing head, then mill some splines in the shaft. Much more better.

 

[cruisermatt]

Right, so if it's going through the frame, you can't have both arms welded on. You work at a machine shop, use your horizontal mill and a dividing head, then mill some splines in the shaft. Much more better.

I mistyped. It's NOT going through the frame ! You think I'm stupid or something?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I still don't think you should weld it. Like I said, you have access to a mill, so use it!

 

[cruisermatt]

I don't have a dividing head. Or any gear cutters

 

[cruisermatt]

Finally got around to swapping the broken birf from my last wheeling trip. Here what your wheel bearings look like when you run with no inner axle seal for about month or two.
Also both trunions were roasted (lower fell apart in my hand), probably from when I jumped it.
Replaced those, inner seal and hub seal. Repacked bearings. All good. I'm sure I'll be back in there in three months or so.