Builds 79 Aussie BJ55 build (2 Viewers)

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so when getting the driveline in, the a$$ end of the pig.got caught out in the rain. i had POR15'd most of the roof and everything got weld through primer that i couldnt see. i spend the next 24hrs with halogen lights on the gutter after using compressed air to move most of the water out from under the roof in the gutter section.

anyway long story short i got it dried out with only a small exposed section developing surface rust. next i started to sand down the fibreglass filler on top of POR15 and noticed it started lifting with compressed air
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i also noticed POR15 peeling from clean metal.. again, long story short i ended up wire wheeling and removing all of that stuff from the roof, a pillars and some of the body.
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next i finally found some waterproof filler and after treating the bare metal with rust converter, roughing up with 40grit, laid to down on the roof seam. again.
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heres hoping 2nd time round i do a better job.
 
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Bummer, that's a big job. Glad you found out now and not after paint.
100%

the recommendation to use POR15 was from a mate who has done his share of 40 series restorations however he suggested using it for areas you cant easily access.. i also discovered, after the fact, that if you do need to put filler over POR15, you need to do it when its touch dry not after its cured.

im hoping the lessons learned here will mean i end up with a better and longer lasting result..
 
Plan on getting this roof done first and in high build primer.. it's the biggest bit of panel work in the scheme of things and should be a good item to have ticked off the list. With all the roof fab that was done, theres quite a bit of body filler to go in.. in addition to the 4 or so decent sized dents on the front, and side edges..

Here's hoping I can do it justice
 
Yeah, you can work your azz off on the roof to get it smooth. That's why I have a roof rack and camper on mine.
I've got a roof rack going on mine too but still the trauma of a re-stitch and replacing the edges left considerable scares not easily overlooked after paint
 
Yeah, been thinking a little about painting the roof and interior ceiling. The first coat of wet primer should be an indication of how much will go into not worrying about how perfect it’s gonna be, especially with a roof rack. Might be an easy way out, but Jeeze, you could spend months trying to get it perfect. As long as there aren’t any major depressions or super obvious weld beads, call it good!
 
Had a good session last night finishing off the front and side of the roof.. I gave it a final skim coat of filler last thing last night and it hadn't dried so I called it a night..

I got another 3L tin of filler so I can continue with the rear and drivers side of the roof as well as work on the A pillars and cowl.. Once done I should be able to hit it with some primer
 
my mate was warning me against heavy applications of filler saying they are prone to cracking and shrinking. fingers crossed im using a quality product helps avoid that for a few years at least..
 
my mate was warning me against heavy applications of filler saying they are prone to cracking and shrinking. fingers crossed im using a quality product helps avoid that for a few years at least..
I hope you have good luck. I had to level my roof after a previous owner stood in the middle and collapsed it. My body filler cracked and I didn't notice it until it was going into paint. I had to start all over. Your application looks thin enough you'll be okay but there are no guarantees.
 

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