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- #81
Builds 1973 FJ 40 Build,Vortec,NV4500,Atlas,Diamond
- Thread starter 64Rotorhead
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In the second photo the engine is further forward. There still will be quite some angle on the driveline if spring over and/or you have much lift. A friend has gone through a few CV drivelines in the last year since installing an atlas. Also, perhaps reinforce the frame just aft of the cross-member (?) Looks like there could be a bunch or stress. The original cross memeber location not only had more webbing on the inside frame rail, but the tube also extended through the frame and was fully welded to the outside frame rail. Your current mock-up only picks up the inside rail and there's not much of it there. Just $0.02.
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- #83
Believe it or not, the parallax view of the camera angle is responsible for the apparent difference in engine location.
And the crossmember tacked in is just a temporary for support when I cut out the original. There will be the main x member for the NV4500, and then probably another for the trac bar, just haven't gotten that far yet.
But point taken for sure on how the x members will mount. Totally agree that just attached to inside of frame would not be sufficient. Also what you cannot see is that the right rear portion of the frame has already been boxed in. I held off on the left side because I have to be able to get the shock mount cross tube installed, used Ruffstuff set up. But I'm waiting on rear axle to decide how much to move it to the rear as the rear axle will be moved back.
build looks good!! love the drive train choice. mine is similar but cheaper with the TBI 350.
Cant wait to see how it turns out!!!
Cant wait to see how it turns out!!!
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- #85
I'm mildly concerned about my front DS fitting in there! A 60 width Diamond is going in front, the original is in there just to give me something to look at and compare.
You can see the pumpkin is a bit to vehicle left, from the Atlas output. With the Diamond I'll have to keep the pumpkin as far right as I can to keep the DS away from the engine oil pan. I've heard of some guys using different oil pans on the Vortecs as well.
You can see the pumpkin is a bit to vehicle left, from the Atlas output. With the Diamond I'll have to keep the pumpkin as far right as I can to keep the DS away from the engine oil pan. I've heard of some guys using different oil pans on the Vortecs as well.
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- #86
Cleaning up the front springs. Opinions on the minor pitting? Was thinking of making up an electrolysis tank to clean that up.
Using this in between leaves:Drislide N. America, Inc. — Drislide Multi-Purpose, 5.25oz Aerosol Can
It has both graphite and moly base. My understanding is the moly helps with extreme pressures. Used in aviation applications. I'd read reviews from the heavy construction industry as well.
Using this in between leaves:Drislide N. America, Inc. — Drislide Multi-Purpose, 5.25oz Aerosol Can
It has both graphite and moly base. My understanding is the moly helps with extreme pressures. Used in aviation applications. I'd read reviews from the heavy construction industry as well.
I've read electrolysis isn't good for spring steel
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- #88
I think you may be right. My head is spinning from reading about it. Gets complicated, better safe than sorry.
In a couple words: hydrogen embrittlement.
A guy sure learns a lot doing a project like this.
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jim land
SILVER Star
My ome springs look like that, I use a wire wheel on a grinder and rattle can graphite, jigaloo and plastikote, imposible to find brush on slip plate in canada , in the US you can find it on John Deer store suppose to be a good product
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- #90
I've already ordered the Dri Slide I mentioned above for in between the leafs. I chose it due to some articles about it being used in this application and other heavy industrial applications. In addition to graphite, it has moly, so we'll see.
Just checked out your rig, looks real nice! Wish I would be driving mine soon, but nope!
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- #91
Front leaf spring/shackles mounts. Comments please.
So I'm doing SR at the same time as outboarding. Using Ruffstuff hangers with original front springs. The issue arises with the front spring hanger as well as the shackle to spring connection in that original pin size is 15mm. As the original shackle hangers and spring hangers used a 15mm pin(Pre 1980), there are no 15mm bolts! If you can find one let me know please
Metric sizes jump from 14 to 16, no 15mm.
9/16" is pretty darn close though, feels tight by hand anyway. ⅝" a bit big but could maybe force it through the bushings.
So I'm doing SR at the same time as outboarding. Using Ruffstuff hangers with original front springs. The issue arises with the front spring hanger as well as the shackle to spring connection in that original pin size is 15mm. As the original shackle hangers and spring hangers used a 15mm pin(Pre 1980), there are no 15mm bolts! If you can find one let me know please
Metric sizes jump from 14 to 16, no 15mm.9/16" is pretty darn close though, feels tight by hand anyway. ⅝" a bit big but could maybe force it through the bushings.
Here's some reading on oil pans....LS oil pans with dimensions (all of them) - Chevy Nova Forum
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- #93
Thanks! Looks like some options to clear my DS
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- #94
Spring perch question?
Does any see a problem with this idea: On an SOA, having the spring perches essentially sit right down on the axle to keep height low? Most perches I see sit about ½" to ¾" above the surface of the axle housing, meaning the spring surface to perch surface would be that high. Why not have the perch sit almost all the way down on the housing? But not so close where you grind out the CNC brake bend? Even if you did, there is still the extended gusset ends for support. And the center pin holes shouldn't be affected, as the center pin heads aren't more thick than the steel used in the perch.
It also seems like this might help with later steering setup, helping keep steering linkage off the springs. In many others builds, it seems like ½" to ¾" would have been real nice to have.
Does any see a problem with this idea: On an SOA, having the spring perches essentially sit right down on the axle to keep height low? Most perches I see sit about ½" to ¾" above the surface of the axle housing, meaning the spring surface to perch surface would be that high. Why not have the perch sit almost all the way down on the housing? But not so close where you grind out the CNC brake bend? Even if you did, there is still the extended gusset ends for support. And the center pin holes shouldn't be affected, as the center pin heads aren't more thick than the steel used in the perch.
It also seems like this might help with later steering setup, helping keep steering linkage off the springs. In many others builds, it seems like ½" to ¾" would have been real nice to have.
I cut the "c" deeper on my spring perches so that the spring was closer to the housing. I think I got 3/4" less height. Mid eye or reverse eye springs would get you significantly lower. You could probably do a 3 or 4" lift with a spring over with reverse eye springs. I tried to keep chassis height as low as possible on mine. I did a 2" body lift which gave me more room for suspension movement without cutting the fenders up. It also seems to keep the body away from rocks more and seems to climb better than rigs that get their height from strictly suspension lift.
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- #96
Most excellent information, thank you very much! I didn't think about the body lift. As you did, I'm trying to keep CG low
Axle width is also something to consider. Ive wheeled with some guys with soa and fj60 width axles, they were quite a bit more tippy than mine, but they were also taller since all the lift they got was from suspension. I personally like 63 to 65" wms. Its makes it stable but doesn't look too bad.
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- #98
Worked on CAD design for crossmember. With my drivetrain, NV4500 & Atlas, the Atlas is clocked all the way down right now, later when I get the weight on suspension I hope I can clock it back up, but now it hangs below frame a bit which I don't like.
Am I out to lunch on this? Looks to me like it's the only way I can get a crossmember in there, and can add some protection below as well.
Am I out to lunch on this? Looks to me like it's the only way I can get a crossmember in there, and can add some protection below as well.
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- #99
Just got to thinking about this. Seems like a 60 width is enough of a challenge to fit. How would wider be? My pumpkin doesn't have a lot of options left and right, to keep the front DS where it should be. And how wide of outboard did you have to do?
I am at 61" wms to wms up front, I took a stock fj60 housing and widened the short side to achieve this width.i didn't have to do any outboarding. If I decided to widen it further up front I would widen the short side even more which would move the diff closer to center and make it even easier to weld on perches to clear the diff.
