Builds 1973 FJ 40 Build,Vortec,NV4500,Atlas,Diamond

[White Stripe]

Maybe try removing the rear crossmember and see if it straightens out? The one that the tail lights go in. Although I'm a little unsure what you're saying is out of alignment. Are you saying the difference between the front mount and rear shackle mount is 5 degrees?

 

[64Rotorhead]

Maybe try removing the rear crossmember and see if it straightens out? The one that the tail lights go in. Although I'm a little unsure what you're saying is out of alignment. Are you saying the difference between the front mount and rear shackle mount is 5 degrees?

That's exactly what I'm saying. It's most noticeable on the right side, but there is some on the left. In other words, the most outboard end of the front right spring hangar is splayed upward, very obviously, about 5˚ as best I can measure. The spring pin itself angles upward to the outside.

I'm wondering if over the years, and maybe some hard landings or something, the mounts have just bent upward?

 

[B y r o n]

I'd put a straight edge on the hanger in question and see if it is flat on the surface that mates to the frame. If it is I wouldn't worry about it as the spring bushings will absorb the difference. If it is bent then you could possibly hammer if straight but without a gusset welded to it and the frame it would simply bend again in all likelihood.

 

[White Stripe]

The rear leafspring front mounts are notorious for flexing and cracking the frames. Look carefully for cracks in that area. Look inside the frame channel too

 

[64Rotorhead]

Good points all, thanks guys.

I'll check for cracks. Nows the time to fix it if need be. Even if it means building new gusseted mounts

 

[White Stripe]

Good points all, thanks guys.

I'll check for cracks. Nows the time to fix it if need be. Even if it means building new gusseted mounts

I think new gusseted mounts is a good idea. If u use fj60 springs for more wheelbase u can build for mount that will take the nice thick fj60 bushings. Think about splitting the frame while your this far, I'm sure their is rust where the boxed sections are riveted,it would also be really easy to repair like that.

 

[64Rotorhead]

I like what Chicago did. But was thinking maybe new Alcan springs as I have no FJ60 springs, haven't seen any in Montana. But would try to have them made to simulate flatter worn ones for the SOA. Would like to fit an Atlas 4 spd. but may have to have a 2 spd. I want to extend WB but keep somewhat the 40 look.

As far as the frame, it looks really good thus far. You refer to splitting it, then weld it? Meaning out with all the rivets?

 

[White Stripe]

Well it depends how far u want to go, but ya removing the rivets taking it apart, then putting back together. You could weld it or just use bolts instead of rivets. If you don't have fj60 springs you could flip the rear fj40 Springs that would gain you 3". If you use adjustable axle spring perches you could use the last hole and gain another inch. Alcans will cost u about 350 a spring but is a option. One other thing you could do is get a fj43 half tub and then you could really stretch it out. You would have to lengthen the frame though.

 

[64Rotorhead]

Good grief this is tall! I flipped the axles over just to get an idea of height with SOA. Obviously doesn't give much of an idea with nothing on the frame! I'm wondering how much it will come down with all the drivetrain, tub, and hard top? Empty like this it's 24" to the bottom of the center of frame.

And I need to learn how to post pics so you don't have to scroll to see the whole thing

 

[64Rotorhead]

Closer to the tedious engine placement

 

[terrx]

Will be interesting to see the Atlas bolted up.

 

[64Rotorhead]

Will be interesting to see the Atlas bolted up.

Ordering an Atlas 2 Monday. Going to box the rear frame first and add a temporary X member before I cut out the hoop, as it will be in the way

 

[64Rotorhead]

Not a fun job. Blaster doesn't like fine media, clumps up and quits, back to the medium grit. Hoping the Soda conversion kit works

 

[mtquivr]

If the media is clumping, you probably have moisture in your air line.

 

[64Rotorhead]

If the media is clumping, you probably have moisture in your air line.

Yes I do. Trying to figure an economical way to dry out the air. I drain the tank constantly, and have a water filter/trap, basically 2 units together, mounted just downstream from compressor, plus there's the cheaper separator right on the blast tank, but still seem to have excess moisture. I guess I need another desiccant type. More $$

I'm going to try some copper tube coils in water in between compressor pump outlet and tank. Add a drain point and see what happens. Relatively cheap to try. Lot's of YouTube videos on this with reported decent results.

 

[mtquivr]

I use this for blasting and plasma cutting. Seems to do a good job.
Motor Guard: Air Management

 

[terrx]

Do you have access to a larger compressor? Try to beg/borrow/rent/steal a larger one if you can.

 

[64Rotorhead]

Do you have access to a larger compressor? Try to beg/borrow/rent/steal a larger one if you can.

I've got a 5hp 2 stage 80 gal compressor. It works fine, it's just the clumping of the media. Building a condenser/dryer now, we'll see how it goes.

It was working quite well, just had a humid day and really noticed more moisture in the air.

I'm going to try a coiled copper loop between the compressor pump and tank, with the loop in a water tank, with a low point drain, and maybe the unit that mtquivr suggested, then back up to tank.

I use this for blasting and plasma cutting. Seems to do a good job.
Motor Guard: Air Management

 

[64Rotorhead]

Just what I think is an important quote from a member, good to read each week, or day!

"Dont get me wrong!!!!
I would NOT be ANYWHERE in this hobby if it wasnt for Ih8mud and other SELECT sites like this one and its members. However, there is some "intestinal fortitude" that HAS TO BE THERE to begin with. IMO...its having the BALLS to fail, start over and get it right."

 

[64Rotorhead]

Working on the bumper. It's a bolt on. It's moved to the rear away from frame to accommodate a swing out spare tire carrier assembly. As this is a 1973, I needed 2" clearance away from rearward most portion of tub to clear latches for the doors. The oval plate will bolt to the existing 8 holes of the braces, where the rivets used to be.