About half way down the page is info on the 400.
Builds 1973 FJ 40 Build,Vortec,NV4500,Atlas,Diamond
- Thread starter 64Rotorhead
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Some "progress" Does anyone know what the bracket on the frame is? It wasn't being used. Maybe something related to the original engine mounting?
Xpnsv72fj
SILVER Star
Its where one of the orginal transmission mounts where.
- Thread starter
- #24
Time to remove the old steering box. And engine mounts from the 400 that was in there.
- Thread starter
- #25
Thread Revival. Should be a good year for progress on this project. Got some parts anyway, now to put em in! Anyone know about this pic?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
That pic is when the old cedar finally fell into Little Sluice. Not sure what that overhead line is though?
Good to see you back on the project!
Good to see you back on the project!
- Thread starter
- #27
That line was for some rigging when that tree was flown out. I probably shouldn't reveal this but, I flew it out with a helicopter, and then flew some rock fill in to Little Sluice, as well as other spots on the trail. Now folks will probably want to hang me! El Dorado county made me do it
- Thread starter
- #28
So, I've got the Vortec and NV4500 standing by, waiting for AA order for the bell housing and clutch set up. And looks like I've got to figure out how to shrink the photos.
Also, as this is a Chevy NV4500, AA recommended the Dodge cast iron tail housing as it is almost 2" shorter, thus also requiring new shaft. Length is important for the rear DS. I decided on an Atlas 4 which is bit longer than a 2. So trying to save every inch. I'll push the rear axle back too.
Also, as this is a Chevy NV4500, AA recommended the Dodge cast iron tail housing as it is almost 2" shorter, thus also requiring new shaft. Length is important for the rear DS. I decided on an Atlas 4 which is bit longer than a 2. So trying to save every inch. I'll push the rear axle back too.
Also, as this is a Chevy NV4500, AA recommended the Dodge cast iron tail housing as it is almost 2" shorter, thus also requiring new shaft. Length is important for the rear DS. I decided on an Atlas 4 which is bit longer than a 2. So trying to save every inch. I'll push the rear axle back too.
Also, as this is a Chevy NV4500, AA recommended the Dodge cast iron tail housing as it is almost 2" shorter, thus also requiring new shaft. Length is important for the rear DS. I decided on an Atlas 4 which is bit longer than a 2. So trying to save every inch. I'll push the rear axle back too.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #29
Started some media blasting on the frame. I'm wondering if this is good or bad? Overkill? It's definitely cleaning it up. The shinier looking bit is where I wire brushed it afterwards. Wondering if I should just paint over the media blast, or wire wheel the whole thing? The media "raises the grain" so to speak of the metal, not sure if that's a good thing. Medium grit Black Diamond media.
This is preliminary testing, of course I'll need to get all the welding done before bothering with this too far.
This is preliminary testing, of course I'll need to get all the welding done before bothering with this too far.
I would probably not go nv4500. I would go sm465. Cheaper and shorter. If u have 35 or 37 inch tires a 5th gear is of little use. With 4.10 diff gears and 37s u should have a nice cruising rpm. This would give u a longer rear driveshaft-like 5" longer. They are also dirt cheap on Craigslist
- Thread starter
- #31
What do you consider a nice cruising rpm? I've already got the NV4500. Messing around with various gear ratio/speed/rpm calculators, I figured cruising on highway at 70mph and about 2000-2100 rpm. I do plan to move the rear axle back.
- Thread starter
- #32
Wondering if anyone has a Gen III Vortec 5.3 sitting around that they could get a measurement for me? I'm looking for the diameter of the crank flange where the flywheel mounts.I have an AA flywheel to bolt to mine which has too much interference fit, like .0105", way too much to get it on there. Or more specifically I wonder if there's a difference in cranks if an auto vs. manual was installed? Anyone have problems with an AA flywheel? This is from their bell housing and center force clutch kit to mount an NV4500
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #33
Finally
Lookin' good, keep at it...
- Thread starter
- #35
Frame cleaned up, getting ready to prime.
workingdog
GOLD Star
Did you change your mind on the 400?
- Thread starter
- #37
Yes, picked up the Vortec 5.3
workingdog
GOLD Star
Good, the 400 is an oddball engine. The 5.3 will be a lot easier.
- Thread starter
- #39
I know I'm slower than molasses in winter, probably no one watching this, but just in case:
Regarding WB stretch in the rear, looking for opinions on rear leaf spring idea. Lots of guys use 55/60 springs, flip them for WB ext and move shackle hangars etc. With this combo of drivetrain I want, I do need to move rear axle back. Not really an issue of cost of new leaf springs, but rather just the ease of doing it.
Idea 1) I was thinking of having custom springs made. Still the 40 width, in order to keep the same forward frame mount. But FJ60 length and locating the rear shackle hangar on rear bumper. This would also require the spring pins to be located appropriately, which I'm thinking just keep the same offset percentage wise. The would only require relocating rear hangar, but cost is up.
I realize I could also just flip the springs in place, redrill for pin keeping military wrap correct, but that only moves the axle about 3-4"
Idea 2) Could also flip existing springs as above, but move the whole thing rearward, relocating frame hangar and shackle hangar.
Using existing springs, I hear from many on here, could be good for SOA, keeping the CG down. But custom springs could be made to accommodate this.
I thought I'd read all the threads on this well done topic, but seems there's always some other option
Regarding WB stretch in the rear, looking for opinions on rear leaf spring idea. Lots of guys use 55/60 springs, flip them for WB ext and move shackle hangars etc. With this combo of drivetrain I want, I do need to move rear axle back. Not really an issue of cost of new leaf springs, but rather just the ease of doing it.
Idea 1) I was thinking of having custom springs made. Still the 40 width, in order to keep the same forward frame mount. But FJ60 length and locating the rear shackle hangar on rear bumper. This would also require the spring pins to be located appropriately, which I'm thinking just keep the same offset percentage wise. The would only require relocating rear hangar, but cost is up.
I realize I could also just flip the springs in place, redrill for pin keeping military wrap correct, but that only moves the axle about 3-4"
Idea 2) Could also flip existing springs as above, but move the whole thing rearward, relocating frame hangar and shackle hangar.
Using existing springs, I hear from many on here, could be good for SOA, keeping the CG down. But custom springs could be made to accommodate this.
I thought I'd read all the threads on this well done topic, but seems there's always some other option
- Thread starter
- #40
Help Please! Frame twist? Has anyone else seen this?
Just noticed this. In the pic, the frame is on it's right side. As best I can measure, there is about a 4˚-5˚ difference on the right side!! The left side is maybe 2˚. The old bushings did not look that bad, at least I didn't think so, not bad enough to show wearing on only one side.
But this sure looks like it would put a twist on the leaf springs! No idea how this could happen unless the vehicle took quite a hit in the past.
Now, what to do about it? Frame shop? Take off these old mounts and weld on some new ones I guess
Just noticed this. In the pic, the frame is on it's right side. As best I can measure, there is about a 4˚-5˚ difference on the right side!! The left side is maybe 2˚. The old bushings did not look that bad, at least I didn't think so, not bad enough to show wearing on only one side.
But this sure looks like it would put a twist on the leaf springs! No idea how this could happen unless the vehicle took quite a hit in the past.
Now, what to do about it? Frame shop? Take off these old mounts and weld on some new ones I guess
