We have very similar bodywork projects underway.
Looking good
Looking good
Build: 1973 FJ40 Major Payne (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter letterman52
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Look, Most of the canvas straps for the tool bag are still there. I think that this is one of the coolest things on the early '70s Cruisers. I redid mine with parts from Strapworks.
- Thread starter
- #23
I plan to keep them. I’ll look into strapworks.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Yep, save the strap hardware, it's nla.
I had some nylon strapping laying around and a stout sewing machine.
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- Thread starter
- #25
What exactly did you order from them? I looked it up, but there are a lot of options.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
It looks like you have all the hardware. I cleaned mine up and painted it. I carefully spread the sheetmetal so I could slide the loops out and cleand the up. I had some 1" strap and match the lengths and sewed then up. The amount of strap you need it's probably not worth ordering from Strapworks. You should be able to find something local. I dealt with Strapworks because I periodically buy their hardware and straps in quantity and make up a few sets. The link below has a lot of other links and what I was doing.
forum.ih8mud.com
Canvas Strap For '75 40 Tool Bag
I'm looking for something to replace the original tool bag straps under the drivers seat. It is about 1-inch wide, and is a greenish half-century look. I don't know if it was the same as what was used on the jump seats? Thanks in advance.
forum.ih8mud.com
Webbing and D-Rings can be obtained from them. I think that I also got some footman loops as well - they, with double D-rings hold tool boxes down in the floor of my truck bed toolbox, on the other rig. The canvas (likely polypropylene or polyester)? webbing, footman loops, double-D rings, hardware reminiscent of the FJ40 factory soft top that I happened to not have, making these little elements from the post-bench-seat Land Cruiser really neat, in my mind. The rectangular ring I made with SMAW-type welding rod stripped of it's shielding. I folded some sheet metal for the tie-down end of the rectangular ring. Reproduction tool bag is from Ebay (came with a metal or YKK zipper, iirc). However, the Strapworks heavy duty canvas tool roll could easily fit down there... I get way more use from the tool roll. The reproduction tool bag keeps my jack rod handle, a breaker bar, oil drain plug socket, some adjustable crescent wrenches.
What other automobile can you think of that the factory was so kind to the consumer that they gave us quick access to tools, within a conspicious view, not like the sanitized, tail-tuck that you'll find on modern auto design, which go so far as to hide everything pragmatic so it doesn't intimidate prospective buyers? That said, I'm into the factory tools, probably never going to use the factory worklight.
What other automobile can you think of that the factory was so kind to the consumer that they gave us quick access to tools, within a conspicious view, not like the sanitized, tail-tuck that you'll find on modern auto design, which go so far as to hide everything pragmatic so it doesn't intimidate prospective buyers? That said, I'm into the factory tools, probably never going to use the factory worklight.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Strapworks hardware is similar, but not the same as stk. I seem to recall i used around 42" of strap for a set. That left about 12" for the long ones. Melt the ends of the cut nylon strap.
- Thread starter
- #29
I might just use some of the old stock Willy stuff I have and remake the straps.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
On the original design the floor folded over the sill and ended half way down. Then the cap covered that. OEM the rear sill is offset being and further back on the bottom. There are a couple V shape channels in the bottom which I assume was to drain moisture the made it's way in between floor and sill which is only stitched welded in a couple of places. I've noticed 40s that have an auxiliary fuel tank with a skid plate are less prone to rusting in the sill between the quarter panels. As bad as the rust on my 73 I posted the center sill is still intact. With that in mind would be sure to seal between the floor and rear seal.
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- #31
I use seam sealer wherever panels mate up to each other. It protects the backside of the weld and also prolongs the chances of water getting in between. There wont be a difference here. It will be as close to OEM as you can get for the rear sill. This is just more prep before the rear sill is fitted.
- Thread starter
- #32
Only spent a few hours today working on it. Welded in the new rear bed end, cut out more of the drivers side pan, outside and inside kick panel, and made a rear sill cover from the sheet steel.
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- #33
Test fit the rear sill cover I made. Waiting on the rear sill itself to show up. Discovered another glorious hole that needed to be filled on the tub corner. Cut a new drivers side floorboard and started stitching it in. I’ll finish the drivers side panels tomorrow. Inside kick panel will be fitted and bent and then I’ll put the outside kick panel onto that piece.
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- Thread starter
- #34
A few more pics.
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- #35
Did a tad more work on the drivers side pan. Bent the remaining piece. I should be able to finish it tomorrow and start on the kick panels.
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- #36
Mounted up the surplus bumper I had on the shelf. No idea who made it but it’s heavy. Finished the drivers side pan and outer kick panel is about 90%.
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- #37
Bezel paint had a bubble in it after I sprayed it so decided to start over again.
Land Shark
SILVER Star
Looking good man. Keep up the good work
Unfortunately I’ve done that more than a few times with various pieces
- Thread starter
- #40
Mocked up the new quarter panel patch so I could mark where the badges and half door mount goes. Also pulled off the half door mounts and used the drill and tap to get the broken bolts out. Found these old OEM fog lights on the shelf so put them on. Also used some Eastwood Rust evaporator I had left over on the rear bumper/crossmember. I should be able to tackle the passenger side tomorrow and get the sill in and fitted.
