What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (51 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

@6f40j9 i see you have a stock manifold…I had high idling issues, and found cracks in my intake manifold.

IMG_8648.webp
 
I had that issue as well and had to get the cracks welded.
How is that holding up? I’ve never used a tig, and didn’t think this was the thing to learn on.

I ended up going with the heat riser block off from cruiser outfitters/ cruiser teq.
 
One thing I have noticed is the idle mixture screw seems to have no effect (by ear anyway) on rpms.
According to the carb video above you back it out to raise the rpms, then turn the idle screw to bring them back down, and repeat.
I had it all the way in and several turns out with no change. 🤷🏼‍♂️
It sounds like the idle circuit is clogged. I’d remove the mixture screw and spray some carb cleaner down the hole. After a few minutes blow compressed air down the hole. If that helps you may need to try it again… if it doesn’t solve the issue the first time.

I also had a similar problem when I installed the upper carb gasket upside down. But if it was running properly for a few months that’s probably not the cause.

You may need to rebuild it again… but hopefully not.
 
It sounds like the idle circuit is clogged. I’d remove the mixture screw and spray some carb cleaner down the hole. After a few minutes blow compressed air down the hole. If that helps you may need to try it again… if it doesn’t solve the issue the first time.

I also had a similar problem when I installed the upper carb gasket upside down. But if it was running properly for a few months that’s probably not the cause.

You may need to rebuild it again… but hopefully not.
I’m not rebuilding this one again, that’s for sure. I am half looking for a mid 70s carb but I need all the associated brackets, air filter top, throttle cable, etc.
I wish I could find a package setup.
 
Throw the hook in the water and wait…write up a wanted ad and post it. I have looked for some odd stuff in the MUD classifieds and except for the plastic handle on the ambulance door latch, I have gotten them all. The guys here have been nice enough to quickly respond and are very fair in pricing. You may discover someone has the exact things you’re looking for
 
Throw the hook in the water and wait…write up a wanted ad and post it. I have looked for some odd stuff in the MUD classifieds and except for the plastic handle on the ambulance door latch, I have gotten them all. The guys here have been nice enough to quickly respond and are very fair in pricing. You may discover someone has the exact things you’re looking for
I have had good luck in the past. I actually did post a wanted for a carburetor, that’s how I ended up with this one.
I was warned, but went with it anyway. Honestly half the issues are from our crap California gas but it’s still a poor choice on my part.
 
I have had good luck in the past. I actually did post a wanted for a carburetor, that’s how I ended up with this one.
I was warned, but went with it anyway. Honestly half the issues are from our crap California gas but it’s still a poor choice on my part.
Where in CA are you? Running better at a high idle sounds like it’s idling off the main jets not the slow jets like it should.

Also, it definitely has a vacuum leak if nothing happens when you adjust the idle mixture screw.
 
Where in CA are you? Running better at a high idle sounds like it’s idling off the main jets not the slow jets like it should.

Also, it definitely has a vacuum leak if nothing happens when you adjust the idle mixture screw.
I’m in Marin county. I don’t know that it’s running better at a high idle, or I just have the idle set too high. I really need to figure out how to measure rpms so I can see actual numbers.
 
The FJ40 works better than the F150 for wiggling the trailer back into it's hidy hole.

View attachment 4001582
I have a HUMMER trailer that is very hard to back up with with long wheel base 1-ton but I can back it up with my small John Deere tractor and put it where I want it. I am hoping that I can back it up with my 40 since I plan to convert the trailer to an off road trailer.
 
I’m in Marin county. I don’t know that it’s running better at a high idle, or I just have the idle set too high. I really need to figure out how to measure rpms so I can see actual numbers.

Buy a decent multifunction timing light, with an advance strobe function, tach, voltmeter, and dwell meter. It sounds like you have the idle adjusted high enuff that you are likely bypassing the idle circuit. You need to get the idle mixture screws functioning properly, whether it's a clogged or blocked circuit or a vacuum leak.
 
Tried to fix this nightmare of a carburetor and failed, again.
I was warned.
The accelerator rod plunger failed for the second time, so I got the city racer one with the leather boot.
Installed, everything seemed hunky dory, albeit with a slight miss.
The timing is set with the bb on the line.
Took it for a test drive and same old same old.
It drove fine under acceleration but when I decelerated, it backfired bad and died. Bump started it and drove back home where it alternated between dying at stop signs or high idling.
Pulled into the front yard and it high idled, so I fiddled with it.
I had the mixture screw out 1.5 turns so I turned it in .5 turn. Didn’t seem to make much difference. I revved it a couple times and it returned to idle for about 15 seconds, then died.
I’m out of ideas because I don’t know what I’m doing in the first place.
I can’t afford efi and I don’t mind a carburetor, if I could just get one to work.

View attachment 4001269

View attachment 4001270

View attachment 4001271
I'm reminded of the adage, "95% of carburetor problems are solved in the ignition system"
 
I’m in Marin county. I don’t know that it’s running better at a high idle, or I just have the idle set too high. I really need to figure out how to measure rpms so I can see actual numbers.
Marin County is a long drive from LA o_O Id be happy to check it out if you ever find your way down to socal. I just went through my 78 CA spec carb and got it all dialed in. Passed CA smog no problem.
 
Tried to fix this nightmare of a carburetor and failed, again.
I was warned.
The accelerator rod plunger failed for the second time, so I got the city racer one with the leather boot.
Installed, everything seemed hunky dory, albeit with a slight miss.
The timing is set with the bb on the line.
Took it for a test drive and same old same old.
It drove fine under acceleration but when I decelerated, it backfired bad and died. Bump started it and drove back home where it alternated between dying at stop signs or high idling.
Pulled into the front yard and it high idled, so I fiddled with it.
I had the mixture screw out 1.5 turns so I turned it in .5 turn. Didn’t seem to make much difference. I revved it a couple times and it returned to idle for about 15 seconds, then died.
I’m out of ideas because I don’t know what I’m doing in the first place.
I can’t afford efi and I don’t mind a carburetor, if I could just get one to work.
Make sure you are not at 180 degrees out when setting the BB on the line.
IMG_0285.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom