First oil change on my 2F. 600 miles since first start on the new engine, time to swap out the break-in oil. I've read several posts on this and was dreading the mess from a quart of oil pouring over everything so I swaddled it up from the impending flood . As luck would have it (?), not a drop came out. This was from a Wix filter (from the engine builder) - I'd like to assume that since the engine was closed (cap on etc), the suction from the draining oil pulled it from the filter? Not the first car that this has happened
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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I would love to take the top off on my ride! I don't have any space ..
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
Every time I took my top off it would rain and at night it was cold to ride in the summer.
fitted a new diapram...original was looking tired, taking a test drive tomorrow...
Where is this top from? It’s looks great and very stout.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
When I had the top off the ex may have had bigger cups but never wore a bikini and not looks like Carl Rove in drag.
Where did I go wrong in life to be like this? Spent several hours and days sandblasting, polishing and re-zincing bolts.
Is this the spectra tank?Out with the old. In with the new. These late model tanks are awithout a lift.
View attachment 4000436
I’d never given a lot of thought to how much I like the design of a Landcruiser differential until I had to rebuild a Dana 70U under a 10k truck. Trial and error with shims really sucks while repeatedly pulling the 40+ pound carrier in and out a dozen times while laying on the ground.
When I lost a tooth on my 40s rear pinion gear it only took about 30 minutes to replace the differential and refill the oil. I didn’t even need a jack thanks to it being a FF axle.
Correct. Only difference between it and OEM is no fuel drain on the bottom of the tank.
6f40j9
SILVER Star
Tried to fix this nightmare of a carburetor and failed, again.
I was warned.
The accelerator rod plunger failed for the second time, so I got the city racer one with the leather boot.
Installed, everything seemed hunky dory, albeit with a slight miss.
The timing is set with the bb on the line.
Took it for a test drive and same old same old.
It drove fine under acceleration but when I decelerated, it backfired bad and died. Bump started it and drove back home where it alternated between dying at stop signs or high idling.
Pulled into the front yard and it high idled, so I fiddled with it.
I had the mixture screw out 1.5 turns so I turned it in .5 turn. Didn’t seem to make much difference. I revved it a couple times and it returned to idle for about 15 seconds, then died.
I’m out of ideas because I don’t know what I’m doing in the first place.
I can’t afford efi and I don’t mind a carburetor, if I could just get one to work.
I was warned.
The accelerator rod plunger failed for the second time, so I got the city racer one with the leather boot.
Installed, everything seemed hunky dory, albeit with a slight miss.
The timing is set with the bb on the line.
Took it for a test drive and same old same old.
It drove fine under acceleration but when I decelerated, it backfired bad and died. Bump started it and drove back home where it alternated between dying at stop signs or high idling.
Pulled into the front yard and it high idled, so I fiddled with it.
I had the mixture screw out 1.5 turns so I turned it in .5 turn. Didn’t seem to make much difference. I revved it a couple times and it returned to idle for about 15 seconds, then died.
I’m out of ideas because I don’t know what I’m doing in the first place.
I can’t afford efi and I don’t mind a carburetor, if I could just get one to work.
When was it last rebuilt? Junk in the bowl? Vacuum leak at the carb base?
6f40j9
SILVER Star
It was rebuilt about 600 miles ago. Then I had to do it again when I replaced the plunger the first time last year (just plunger and gasket really)
The bowl is clean (just did that when I took it apart last week).
Could be a vacuum leak I guess but I don’t see how it would just start out of nowhere. I’ll check though
That sounds like a really frustrating problem. Good luck! Wish I knew the answer on that one.It was rebuilt about 600 miles ago. Then I had to do it again when I replaced the plunger the first time last year (just plunger and gasket really)
The bowl is clean (just did that when I took it apart last week).
Could be a vacuum leak I guess but I don’t see how it would just start out of nowhere. I’ll check though
6f40j9
SILVER Star
So I tried to tighten the carb, didn’t get much. Started it up and it idled for a bit so I tried again.
As soon as I pointed down hill, it died. Not sure what that means, is a float set too low or something?
what's the fuel level in the sight glass
Look in the porthole window and see for yourself...
some engines like more advanced timing, give that a try.
when did you last adjust the valves ?
Could be set wrong on the float. Easiest way for me to hunt vacuum leaks is with a can of WD 40 with a pee tube. Cold engine idling, spray lightly and quickly along the gasketed surfaces for vacuum - intake manifold and carb base and the carb sections if RPMs kick up there is your leak. Pays to have a fire extinguisher handy - thus lightly and quickly on cold engine.
Weak fuel pump? You could put a $10 electric fuel pump in line or bypass the mechanical one as a test.
Brake booster can leak - Put a big hemostat on the hose - see if that makes any difference - manual brakes take way more pedal pressure to work on your test drive.
Carb work isn't for everyone. I have bailed out several folks that got lost on their first attempts.
Did you look at the adjustment screws? Some gorilla's crank down on the screws damaging the smooth taper on the screws with a ring or the seats are damage - either make adjusting properly very difficult and flustering at best.
Weak fuel pump? You could put a $10 electric fuel pump in line or bypass the mechanical one as a test.
Brake booster can leak - Put a big hemostat on the hose - see if that makes any difference - manual brakes take way more pedal pressure to work on your test drive.
Carb work isn't for everyone. I have bailed out several folks that got lost on their first attempts.
Did you look at the adjustment screws? Some gorilla's crank down on the screws damaging the smooth taper on the screws with a ring or the seats are damage - either make adjusting properly very difficult and flustering at best.
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