Either way, that’s great news compared to the alternatives.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Yes sir it absolutely isEither way, that’s great news compared to the alternatives.
I found a intercooler some months ago, which should fit into my Bandeirante. Usually it's sold for VW-Trucks in the 8-13tons category. Measures are 580x360x50mm or 23"x14"x2" 
It's a bit tricky to find a good source, of how big a Intercooler should be but I found some sources about pressure loss vs flow rate and for my engine this size should fit well. In the trucks this intercooler works with 4.2L-engines.
Connections of the IC are 2.5", so I kept the piping at 2.5" as well to reduce the airspeed inside (and so the losses). I guess the loss in "response" is not a matter on this engine.
I didn't install a inlet temp. probe so far, but it would be nice to know the temperatures there to have a look, if the turbo is the right size.
I will do some test drives but so far it looks like, the pressure drop is really little and even full throttle uphill at around 2500min-1 and around 13PSI it's hard to get him above 1100°F. Maybe I leave him like this, or I crank up the fuel just a little bit more
It's a bit tricky to find a good source, of how big a Intercooler should be but I found some sources about pressure loss vs flow rate and for my engine this size should fit well. In the trucks this intercooler works with 4.2L-engines.
Connections of the IC are 2.5", so I kept the piping at 2.5" as well to reduce the airspeed inside (and so the losses). I guess the loss in "response" is not a matter on this engine.
I didn't install a inlet temp. probe so far, but it would be nice to know the temperatures there to have a look, if the turbo is the right size.
I will do some test drives but so far it looks like, the pressure drop is really little and even full throttle uphill at around 2500min-1 and around 13PSI it's hard to get him above 1100°F. Maybe I leave him like this, or I crank up the fuel just a little bit more
I’m certain a fan shroud would help.I found a intercooler some months ago, which should fit into my Bandeirante. Usually it's sold for VW-Trucks in the 8-13tons category. Measures are 580x360x50mm or 23"x14"x2"
It's a bit tricky to find a good source, of how big a Intercooler should be but I found some sources about pressure loss vs flow rate and for my engine this size should fit well. In the trucks this intercooler works with 4.2L-engines.
Connections of the IC are 2.5", so I kept the piping at 2.5" as well to reduce the airspeed inside (and so the losses). I guess the loss in "response" is not a matter on this engine.
I didn't install a inlet temp. probe so far, but it would be nice to know the temperatures there to have a look, if the turbo is the right size.
I will do some test drives but so far it looks like, the pressure drop is really little and even full throttle uphill at around 2500min-1 and around 13PSI it's hard to get him above 1100°F. Maybe I leave him like this, or I crank up the fuel just a little bit more
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I had 2 elec fans, but those won't fit anymore without blocking the cooling stream too much.
The radiator is missing on the last picture, so it's getting a bit tighter anyhow. There is a small/useless cover on top for the radiator, but it looks like this original. The engine sits anyhow a bit sideways in the engine bay, so the fan is not central of the radiator and if the engine is cold, it shakes a bit. The shroud would need to be so wide that it doesn't make sense.
A option would be, to convert to a elec suction fan instead of the fixed fan, but I would like to keep the fixed fan.
The radiator is missing on the last picture, so it's getting a bit tighter anyhow. There is a small/useless cover on top for the radiator, but it looks like this original. The engine sits anyhow a bit sideways in the engine bay, so the fan is not central of the radiator and if the engine is cold, it shakes a bit. The shroud would need to be so wide that it doesn't make sense.
A option would be, to convert to a elec suction fan instead of the fixed fan, but I would like to keep the fixed fan.
Hi, to your emu shocks install statement. It appears you have a 40 so my question about my 43 is, how can I identify and purchase the proper rear shocks? I have a 2” lift. ThanksI installed my EMU shocks
Are you in US ?
Yes south Texas
I would call cruiser outfitters, cruisermatts, or valley hybrids. I’d bet they Could fix you up
Sounds great! Thank you I will. This is why I lob sites like this. Much knowledge and I’ll have lots of questions I’m sure
Started our next FJ40 project…. 1964.
Not perfect but a nice foundation. We are taking over from another shop.
First order of business was to build the F135.
Not perfect but a nice foundation. We are taking over from another shop.
First order of business was to build the F135.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Nice Chevy motor
Goth engine
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
Would love to see a build thread started…I also have a 1964.
No build thread.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
I read a helpful post from @65swb45 that lead me to finally install a dual master cylinder for safety.
My 1976 non USA spec truck has 4 wheel drum brakes so also decided to replace all wheel cylinders and shoes at same time.
This dual master upgrade required new hardline plumbing, firewall bracket (3 hole to 4 - powder coated) and new hardline junction. I needed to hone brake line bending, flaring and selecting the correct fittings (after trial and error like being sent Nissan fittings when ordered Toyota type from Classic Tube).
I decide not to run away from the drum brake complexity and go to disc. After methodically going through this process, I’m happy to have the upgrade done. I have strong braking power and added safety.
I first attempted to also install a City Racer booster but it just would not fit without major firewall modifications to re index both the mounting holes for the brake master and clutch master cylinder towards the driver side.
My 1976 non USA spec truck has 4 wheel drum brakes so also decided to replace all wheel cylinders and shoes at same time.
This dual master upgrade required new hardline plumbing, firewall bracket (3 hole to 4 - powder coated) and new hardline junction. I needed to hone brake line bending, flaring and selecting the correct fittings (after trial and error like being sent Nissan fittings when ordered Toyota type from Classic Tube).
I decide not to run away from the drum brake complexity and go to disc. After methodically going through this process, I’m happy to have the upgrade done. I have strong braking power and added safety.
I first attempted to also install a City Racer booster but it just would not fit without major firewall modifications to re index both the mounting holes for the brake master and clutch master cylinder towards the driver side.
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Ha! I took my 71 on its first highway drive of any real distance today. Finally have all the lights, blinkers, brakes working and wanted to do an extended drive to help the marvel mystery oil do its thing before I did an oil change. I discovered on the way home that the gas gauge I thought I fixed was, in fact, not fixed. Nothing worse than driving an old vehicle you know nothing about in terms of its history or reliability and have it just die (suspiciously right when I pulled the vent knob to open it). I pulled over and opened the hood to find the inline fuel filter I put in before the carb completely dry. I thought it might be the mechanical fuel pump, but figured I would pull the fuel hose from the hard line coming from underneath… no fuel. Fortunately, I was only 15 minutes from my parents home and my dad brought enough to get me back to my house. Gas gauge back on the list.
I also have some smoking when I first start and am hoping it’s just going to be valve seals. I haven’t done a compression test yet, but plan to soon. Pcv valve seems to be fine and once it’s warmed up I don’t see it smoke. I put some high milage 10/40 oil in today. Was going to go with 20/50, but decided to hold off at this point since I may add some more liquid engine rebuild to continue to clean this long dormant engine.
Installed a windshield washer tank/pump and worked on the switch until I finally got it working.
For s***s and giggles I designed and printed a small badge for the dash. Not perfect, but I like it.
I bought this on the 9th of September. I’m only 58, but I haven’t been all that active in the last few years, but I can tell you one thing for sure, I’ve been enjoying working on this old FJ the last month. Looking forward to making a lot more progress.
I also have some smoking when I first start and am hoping it’s just going to be valve seals. I haven’t done a compression test yet, but plan to soon. Pcv valve seems to be fine and once it’s warmed up I don’t see it smoke. I put some high milage 10/40 oil in today. Was going to go with 20/50, but decided to hold off at this point since I may add some more liquid engine rebuild to continue to clean this long dormant engine.
Installed a windshield washer tank/pump and worked on the switch until I finally got it working.
For s***s and giggles I designed and printed a small badge for the dash. Not perfect, but I like it.
I bought this on the 9th of September. I’m only 58, but I haven’t been all that active in the last few years, but I can tell you one thing for sure, I’ve been enjoying working on this old FJ the last month. Looking forward to making a lot more progress.