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There was some reason early on why I disconnected it. I think the distributor was advance and the carb retard or something like that.
Lots of patience and hire a contortionist if possible.
See if Gary Kardum can get you the hardline (brass, I think) for the vacuum advance. I can talk you through the connections based upon the distributor part number. It parallels the fuel line and clips to it and then uses short rubber hoses to finish the connection at the distributor and the carburetor. See if you can tell if the vacuum diaphragm in the distributor holds vacuum. You might need to buy a vacuum pump, or you could put a rubber line on it and blow through it and listen for air by-passing at the module.
When I was struggling to adjust idle on my 74 1.5F with HEI and Weber 38, the hot valve adjustment made a WORLD of difference... I set my timing with vac guage. At LEAST 11 degrees advanced in my case.One thing I have noticed is the idle mixture screw seems to have no effect (by ear anyway) on rpms.
According to the carb video above you back it out to raise the rpms, then turn the idle screw to bring them back down, and repeat.
I had it all the way in and several turns out with no change.
Initial timing and mechanical advance combined equals total advance. There's a reason you disconnect the vacuum advance when setting the timing. I don't run a stk Toyota engine any more, but have recently looked in my 2F engine manual and seem to recall the centrifugal advance on a 2f comes in at or just above idle on a 2f distributor. I realize his isn't a 2f, but I can't image it's that much different. Vacuum advance is unique to automotive engines, and is used more to make the engine more efficient because the engine isn't under load all the time. The vacuum advance/retard effects timing when there's no load. Most other engine applications are under constant load and they don't use vacuum advance.
I don’t see a part number on the distributor.
That's a vacuum retard dizzy, best to leave it disconnected from vacuum.
It was idling the last time is all. So frustrating.
If you turn the dizzy body clockwise I bet your idle speed drops, turning it CCW might increase the idle speed...
These are the body mount bushings.
Oops!…never mind
That distributor wants a ported vacuum source, if I recall correctly. Do yourself a favor though, as others have suggested and get a timing light and a vacuum gauge. The Innova light is perfectly adequate, I'm not sure I'd trust one from Harbor Freight, although their Zurich line appear to be pretty good products. A vacuum gauge should be fine from them though.
Unfortunately, if something goes wrong (such as a backfire), many previous settings need to be readjusted, even if they were working fine in the past.
Be prepared to cut bolts out using sawzall, cut off wheel (stinks like crazy from burnt rubber) or using oscillating saw (best with carbide ends) so you can get into tight corners. Way faster. Buy all new hardware too, old stuff likely pitted.
Is there a good source for the correct hardware all sorted out without having to piecemeal each nut and bolt?
