6f40j9
SILVER Star
There’s no vacuum running on the truck, everything is capped off. AFAIK, it’s the original distributor.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (50 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Got a pic of the vac advance module on the distributor? Where does the vacuum line hook up? Or is that capped off? If you don't have vacuum advance hooked up to the correct port, you're fighting a losing battle. Different years required a different vacuum source. Some require full manifold vacuum and some require a ported signal which relies on the venturi effect to create a vacuum signal. You NEED vacuum advance to bridge the lag between idle/off-idle and when the centrifugal advance takes over after 1600-1800 RPMs or so. My '66 wants full manifold vacuum. I believe later (like '69 and later) want a ported source.
6f40j9
SILVER Star
There was some reason early on why I disconnected it. I think the distributor was advance and the carb retard or something like that.
There are no vacuum lines present. The distributor is capped, the carb base is capped, as are all the other ports on the carb. everything.
Lots of patience and hire a contortionist if possible.
See if Gary Kardum can get you the hardline (brass, I think) for the vacuum advance. I can talk you through the connections based upon the distributor part number. It parallels the fuel line and clips to it and then uses short rubber hoses to finish the connection at the distributor and the carburetor. See if you can tell if the vacuum diaphragm in the distributor holds vacuum. You might need to buy a vacuum pump, or you could put a rubber line on it and blow through it and listen for air by-passing at the module.
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When I was struggling to adjust idle on my 74 1.5F with HEI and Weber 38, the hot valve adjustment made a WORLD of difference... I set my timing with vac guage. At LEAST 11 degrees advanced in my case.One thing I have noticed is the idle mixture screw seems to have no effect (by ear anyway) on rpms.
According to the carb video above you back it out to raise the rpms, then turn the idle screw to bring them back down, and repeat.
I had it all the way in and several turns out with no change.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Initial timing and mechanical advance combined equals total advance. There's a reason you disconnect the vacuum advance when setting the timing. I don't run a stk Toyota engine any more, but have recently looked in my 2F engine manual and seem to recall the centrifugal advance on a 2f comes in at or just above idle on a 2f distributor. I realize his isn't a 2f, but I can't image it's that much different. Vacuum advance is unique to automotive engines, and is used more to make the engine more efficient because the engine isn't under load all the time. The vacuum advance/retard effects timing when there's no load. Most other engine applications are under constant load and they don't use vacuum advance.
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
It was from eBay, not available any more. It came from Pakistan.
6f40j9
SILVER Star
I don’t see a part number on the distributor.
I tried removing the idle mixture screw and flushing it with carb cleaner, and also down the vents.
It took awhile to burn it all off, and doesn’t want to idle at all now. I can keep it running with my foot on the pedal but if I let off it backfires and dies. I put the screw back in at 1.5 turns from bottom.
I’m waiting on that snazzy timing light to show up, but I still don’t know what to do with it, if I can’t get it to idle.
I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the carburetor while trying to hold it at a steady rpm and it sounded like it increased ever so slightly.
That's a vacuum retard dizzy, best to leave it disconnected from vacuum.
If you can get it to idle with the gas pedal, try screwing in your idle speed screw to raise the idle speed.
6f40j9
SILVER Star
It was idling the last time is all. So frustrating.
If you turn the dizzy body clockwise I bet your idle speed drops, turning it CCW might increase the idle speed...
nabbasi
SILVER Star
Heat, and lots of it. And when a bolt snaps, more heat (a welder) to weld nuts on for extraction. Good luck!
My guess is you’re changing bushings? Having just swapped the springs for the Terrain Tamer. 1.) while getting the fixed pin bushing installed, insert the inner bushing into the spring eye and DO NOT put the outer side in yet …2).get the spring in position as the outer side of the hanger has a bigger hole. Now, insert the bushing thru the hanger and into the spring eye once it’s in place you can tap the bushing in place and slide the fixed pin in the assembled set.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
These are the body mount bushings.
Oops!…never mind
That distributor wants a ported vacuum source, if I recall correctly. Do yourself a favor though, as others have suggested and get a timing light and a vacuum gauge. The Innova light is perfectly adequate, I'm not sure I'd trust one from Harbor Freight, although their Zurich line appear to be pretty good products. A vacuum gauge should be fine from them though.
Unfortunately, if something goes wrong (such as a backfire), many previous settings need to be readjusted, even if they were working fine in the past.
