I thought energy suspension mounts came with new hdw? Mine did, and it was SAE
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Thanks, the kit came with all new hardware and plates.Be prepared to cut bolts out using sawzall, cut off wheel (stinks like crazy from burnt rubber) or using oscillating saw (best with carbide ends) so you can get into tight corners. Way faster. Buy all new hardware too, old stuff likely pitted.
To not have to realign everything, loosen it all but replace as you go and tighten it all down last.
I thought energy suspension mounts came with new hdw? Mine did, and it was SAE
Is there a good source for the correct hardware all sorted out without having to piecemeal each nut and bolt?
Wish you didn’t live two states away because I’d swing by to help if you were close. Gotta be someone on this forum in your area that you could meet up with for a few beers and a wrenching session to get this solved.I’ve been playing with this pos carb for 2 years. I obviously don’t get it. This summer, out of the blue it decided to run just fine for 3-4 weeks until it didn’t. Then I found the bad plunger. Now the more I mess with it, it just gets worse. I can’t get it to idle and it’s backfiring out of the top of the carb. I’m not smart enough to figure it out and I lack probably some key tools.
I barely got the valves adjusted cold, there’s no way I have the patience, or skills to do them hot.
Honestly it’s a wonder this thing runs at all due to the fact I’m the only one that has touched it during my ownership and I’ve replaced the head, exhaust manifold, water pump, carburetor…
I’m out in the boonies, with no garage and a gravel driveway. Marin isn’t quite the place for shade tree mechanics that it probably once was. I think most cruiser owners in this county probably go to Gary (Mudrak) which I’ve been trying to do for a year but he’s too busy (which is a good thing for him!)Wish you didn’t live two states away because I’d swing by to help if you were close. Gotta be someone on this forum in your area that you could meet up with for a few beers and a wrenching session to get this solved.
So I replaced the drain cock on the block over a week ago and still noticed a leak and realized it was coming from behind the exhaust manifold closest to the firewall.So I rented a radiator and cap test kit and found out that my coolant is leaking at the drain plug on the block. I believe I still have a small leak more so on the passenger side but can’t determine yet weather it’s from the same leak on the plug.
I’m going to still run the UV dye hopefully this weekend to make sure that are leaks are addressed.
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Thanks for the link! To answer your question it hasn’t overheated. It has only been warmed up once since a rebuild on the motor.Has it been overheated? Could be a head gasket - check for milky oil. You could try and retorque them in sequence. There might be some freeze plugs in the head. Look in the manuals free download Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals
Use an inspection mirror and check the freeze plug because sometimes brand new ones weep a bit before they seal up.Thanks for the link! To answer your question it hasn’t overheated. It has only been warmed up once since a rebuild on the motor.
That’ll buff out.Make sure you are not at 180 degrees out when setting the BB on the line.
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WHYD to your Cruiser this week?
Replaced a windshield hinge , think I installed it backwardsWHYD to your Cruiser this week?
Hood hinge I meant
Either way, that’s great news compared to the alternatives.So late last night I decided to take another peek at the coolant leak I was having and noticed it was coming from the water temp sensor. Not sure if it’s between the fitting and head or between the fitting and temp sensor. Didn’t have time to tighten it down to see if that is what’s causing the leak.
Yes sir it absolutely isEither way, that’s great news compared to the alternatives.![]()