What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

[peesalot]

To : Mark Hawley @ Metal Tech

After 23 years my 40 finally has it's set of NLA Metal Tech 40 tube fenders. I retained the oem inner fender brace and welded tube to it. I did not delete the apron so I just used the original fender and cut it back.

 

[65swb45]

To : Mark Hawley @ Metal Tech

After 23 years my 40 finally has it's set of NLA Metal Tech 40 tube fenders. I retained the oem inner fender brace and welded tube to it. I did not delete the apron so I just used the original fender and cut it back.View attachment 4002026View attachment 4002027

I remember talking about this and you showing me the tubes when I stayed at your house! Wasn’t that like 18 years ago? You told me then that you were going to try and retain the aprons and I told you then that I liked that idea.

I still do.

 

[Chuckha62]

It had been running fine, I didn’t move the distributor that much.

I'm more concerned about the condition of your vacuum and mechanical advance in the distributor and where you're getting your vacuum signal from. To your knowledge, is this the original distributor? Are you full manifold or ported vacuum?

 

[clrussell]

To : Mark Hawley @ Metal Tech

After 23 years my 40 finally has it's set of NLA Metal Tech 40 tube fenders. I retained the oem inner fender brace and welded tube to it. I did not delete the apron so I just used the original fender and cut it back.View attachment 4002026View attachment 4002027

That looks really good.

 

[peesalot]

65swb45, thank you, I thought it was 02' 03', could have been later, either way, past due for sure.
This vision has been in my head for that long, sense of closure now, feels satisfying. Mark A., it is unique to share a thought/concept with someone and having them around at it's finality, I like the " Remember when we talked about this years ago " comment, I guess it makes me feel like I actually completed a task/ wishlist item regardless of how large a task it was. I appreciate being able to share that with you.

 

[65swb45]

65swb45, thank you, I thought it was 02' 03', could have been later, either way, past due for sure.
This vision has been in my head for that long, sense of closure now, feels satisfying. Mark A., it is unique to share a thought/concept with someone and having them around at it's finality, I like the " Remember when we talked about this years ago " comment, I guess it makes me feel like I actually completed a task/ wishlist item regardless of how large a task it was. I appreciate being able to share that with you.

Want a laugh? I also remember being so impressed with your idea that I asked you to consider building me a pair!

I’m not waiting another 18 years!

 

[peesalot]

Well now I know exactly how to do it, do it better the second time & make them bolt on if nec., it was kinda fun. I also got to delete those lites, the new ones are metal bodied ( not plastic) LED , have park & blink, and because I have filament rear bulbs the flasher still works and they cover the holes.
The fitment of the cut back skin is tough because the fender isnt square, bent over the years, etc. & after looking at my hood overhang and reading your post I checked, sure enough driver side front cab mount area is bent due to repeated smashes at rear of rocker which is tied to frame & tub right there. No way could you make them without vehicle in hand.

 

[fj40fillet]

I need to get those collector plates too @Skreddy . Technically every drive in the 40 can be considered “for testing purposes” since you never fully know if something is going to break.

That's what I do in the People's Republic of NJ. Historic tags. It's a great loophole.

 

[fj40fillet]

I’m not sure what I did, but it’s running better now. Probably have the idle a tad high, but I tried driving it hard-ish, bogging it, decelerating, fast stopping, etc and it didn’t die on me, so…I’ll just accept it for now.

View attachment 4001450

They get set in their ways sometimes. LOL. I've been there with mine.

 

[fj40fillet]

I removed my drivers seat bracket and modified them bc I needed more leg room. I could only move it back 2" bf the back of the seat hit the rear fender well. What a difference. I works great with the factory brackets. Just drill the rivets out and move them 2" and reweld them.

 

[MatthewMcD]

I’m in Marin county. I don’t know that it’s running better at a high idle, or I just have the idle set too high. I really need to figure out how to measure rpms so I can see actual numbers.

This timing light is the bomb for timing, RPM, and dwell (if you still run points). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVU8J8?tag=ihco-20 It may seem expensive, until it saves you hours on your truck.

 

[knuckle47]

This timing light is the bomb for timing, RPM, and dwell (if you still run points). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVU8J8?tag=ihco-20 It may seem expensive, until it saves you hours on your truck.

101% correct…..

 

[65swb45]

This timing light is the bomb for timing, RPM, and dwell (if you still run points). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVU8J8?tag=ihco-20 It may seem expensive, until it saves you hours on your truck.

I concur. And I'd like to add that is one of a few tools that I have that I didn't know about until I read about it on this forum.

 

[MatthewMcD]

I concur. And I'd like to add that is one of a few tools that I have that I didn't know about until I read about it on this forum.

I like the advance feature that allows you to dial in the advance and see the BB in the window. Excellent for checking vacuum advance.

 

[65swb45]

I like the advance feature that allows you to dial in the advance and see the BB in the window. Excellent for checking vacuum advance.

I've had an adjustable advance light since before I opened the shop, but it died. I like the fact that I can measure timing AND dwell without having two sets of wires to keep track of.

 

[MatthewMcD]

These arrived today. To be honest, I am more worried about this upgrade than I was about the engine swap.
12 of the scariest rusted bolts on the truck. I have loosened 4 of them and started soaking the rest.

If anyone has any tips let me know.

 

[dplenty99]

Took my better half on a drive through the countryside to find some flowers for Jellybean, her dog of 11 years who passed on today.
Landcruisers can help heal hearts.

View attachment 4002020

View attachment 4002021

Thank you for sharing this

 

[Tomba]

One thing I have noticed is the idle mixture screw seems to have no effect (by ear anyway) on rpms.
According to the carb video above you back it out to raise the rpms, then turn the idle screw to bring them back down, and repeat.
I had it all the way in and several turns out with no change.

If you are sure carb has been cleaned thoroughly and the idle port is clear, I would focus on the finding potential vac leaks, I struggled with this whole thing for what seemed like a few months and was finally able to solve my issues by finding the leaks, adjusting the sticky throttle linkage and replacing the idle jet with a slightly larger one. A simple vac gauge like this one is key for solving your tuning issues. I actually use it in the rig ! Good luck and DO NOT GIVE UP!

 

[6f40j9]

I'm more concerned about the condition of your vacuum and mechanical advance in the distributor and where you're getting your vacuum signal from. To your knowledge, is this the original distributor? Are you full manifold or ported vacuum?

There’s no vacuum running on the truck, everything is capped off. AFAIK, it’s the original distributor.

 

[Chuckha62]

There’s no vacuum running on the truck, everything is capped off. AFAIK, it’s the original distributor.

Got a pic of the vac advance module on the distributor? Where does the vacuum line hook up? Or is that capped off? If you don't have vacuum advance hooked up to the correct port, you're fighting a losing battle. Different years required a different vacuum source. Some require full manifold vacuum and some require a ported signal which relies on the venturi effect to create a vacuum signal. You NEED vacuum advance to bridge the lag between idle/off-idle and when the centrifugal advance takes over after 1600-1800 RPMs or so. My '66 wants full manifold vacuum. I believe later (like '69 and later) want a ported source.