What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (52 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Also, upgraded my Radio antenna mount. I have chased a factory unit for too long. Then I tried a rubber duck antenna, terrible reception and my kids broke it off. I went with the Firestik AM/FM specific antenna and the side molded mount. It is ROCK SOLID, and the reception is AMAZING. All in all I added three Antennas to the cruiser today. I am ready for wheeling season now.

IMG_1063.JPG
 
2.5" rear shackles installed to level out rig.. Don't care for a lift just wanted the rear to come up as high as front end...

20170525_120301.jpg


20170525_120252.jpg


20170525_121934.jpg
 
It's a standard H4 bulb - you can buy them anywhere. 60/55 is the original output, I've upgraded the headlight circuit via relays and the bulbs to 130/90 Hellas - night and day difference in output.
So you are running power straight from the battery to the lights using a solid state relay or solenoid? I have power going through my light switch and think this setup is causing my very dim low beams and not so dim highs I'll have to try your way cause I'd really like to have brighter lights at night.
 
So you are running power straight from the battery to the lights using a solid state relay or solenoid? I have power going through my light switch and think this setup is causing my very dim low beams and not so dim highs I'll have to try your way cause I'd really like to have brighter lights at night.
Yah, I bought some H4 extensions (these) and used them to tap into the passenger side headlight harness. From there the high and low beam signals each trigger a 30A relay, both of which are tied directly to the battery (though fused). As it stands now, both high and low beams can draw 30A of current (~360 watts @ 12vdc) before blowing the fuse. The switch in the dash no longer carries the power to the bulbs - it's simply a switch now.

When I first put the 130/90 in, I did so only on the driver's side with the factory wiring and saw little difference. After the wiring upgrade the light output is incredible - better than my 100 series Land Cruiser with its upgraded bulbs...

Here's a shot of the relays, mounted under the hood on the passenger wheel well:

051717_headlight_relays.jpg
 
I figured I would ask this here instead of starting a new thread..

I am mounting my fenders and am wondering what have you guys have done on where it bolts to the cowl? Are you making a piece of rubber to go between the fender metal and the cowl lip?(like the apron has) Or just bolting them together(paint on paint)? I also wondered about using a couple of nylon washers like ICON uses on a lot of there paint on paint spots?? I hope this made sense... Any ideas would be great! Thanks.
 
Yah, I bought some H4 extensions (these) and used them to tap into the passenger side headlight harness. From there the high and low beam signals each trigger a 30A relay, both of which are tied directly to the battery (though fused). As it stands now, both high and low beams can draw 30A of current (~360 watts @ 12vdc) before blowing the fuse. The switch in the dash no longer carries the power to the bulbs - it's simply a switch now.

When I first put the 130/90 in, I did so only on the driver's side with the factory wiring and saw little difference. After the wiring upgrade the light output is incredible - better than my 100 series Land Cruiser with its upgraded bulbs...

Here's a shot of the relays, mounted under the hood on the passenger wheel well:

051717_headlight_relays.jpg

Do you have a link for what you installed? I just did the Round Eyes last year and they are AMAZING, but I'm always on the lookout for more light as I drive a lot at night. I please to see the 7" LED headlights coming down in price but I am still a fan of the halogens for the money.
 
Do you have a link for what you installed? I just did the Round Eyes last year and they are AMAZING, but I'm always on the lookout for more light as I drive a lot at night. I please to see the 7" LED headlights coming down in price but I am still a fan of the halogens for the money.
These are the bulbs, I just picked up a cheap set of relays from the local auto parts store (30A rated) for the switching. Used some 10awg primary wire to run from the relays to the bulbs.

The light output from those cheap Hella bulbs is ridiculous.
 
I figured I would ask this here instead of starting a new thread..

I am mounting my fenders and am wondering what have you guys have done on where it bolts to the cowl? Are you making a piece of rubber to go between the fender metal and the cowl lip?(like the apron has) Or just bolting them together(paint on paint)? I also wondered about using a couple of nylon washers like ICON uses on a lot of there paint on paint spots?? I hope this made sense... Any ideas would be great! Thanks.

Paint on paint. It's hard enough aligning the whole front clip without introducing another variable.
 
These are the bulbs, I just picked up a cheap set of relays from the local auto parts store (30A rated) for the switching. Used some 10awg primary wire to run from the relays to the bulbs.

The light output from those cheap Hella bulbs is ridiculous.
I think I'll try the 100/80, by the way how about the place where you found the headlight stone guards?
 
Flame me if you will, but I cut my radiator shroud in half so I can now easily remove it completely to get to the fan, water pump, hoses etc. SOOO much easier. I drilled the holes to zip tie the pieces together, but that was not needed.
021.JPG
 
Got everything ready to install the distributor from my '84 FJ60 parts vehicle into my '76 FJ40. Now the critical decision is "Do I want to do the upgrade between now and next Friday when I meet up with @POTATO LAUNCHER in Romeroville, NM for yet another baton handoff in the FJ40 Cross Country Expedition?" I figure at the least I can install the FJ60 dented side cover I got from @65swb45. I can always abort at that time, but then again once that's done the rest is pretty straightforward. I figure it would be a good upgrade to make the trip a bit better. The '76 carburetor already has the correct vacuum advance port, and I've already rerouted the vacuum line to the vicinity of the distributor and capped the port on the vacuum switching valve.

The other thing I was thinking of doing before the trip is to temporarily install my new 70-Series Land Cruiser wheels with BFG LT235/85R16 ATs (eventually the wheels/tires will go on my '86 FJ60 project vehicle). One thing I've got to consider is the fact there's a climb over Glorieta Pass @ 7,500 feet (both ways), a climb over Opera Hill north of Santa Fe @ 7,332 feet (both ways), and a climb back up to the house @ 7,240 feet. Not so sure how the tall tires will affect my speed on those climbs.

'76-FJ40-Ignition-Upgrade-Kit.jpg


I forgot to include the OEM side cover gasket in the photo. I believe I have everything I need, any miscellaneous wire and/or connectors are in the garage or the basement.

FJ60-Distributor-1.jpg


FJ60-Distributor-2.jpg
 
Flame me if you will, but I cut my radiator shroud in half so I can now easily remove it completely to get to the fan, water pump, hoses etc. SOOO much easier. I drilled the holes to zip tie the pieces together, but that was not needed.View attachment 1467345

I like this a lot! Many manufactures these days use multi-piece shrouds to increase serviceability.
 
Carrying this one over from my build thread, but making enough progress that the 40 is actually starting to look like a truck. Installed lights, bezel, signals, etc. Still aways to go working on the aqualu tub before I hit the road, but thought the picture was worth posting.

IMG_4203.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom