Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
The Mule is a skeet range Junkie….
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (48 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
"Radiator Leak" turned out to be a loose upper hose clamp. Tightened it up and took her for a drive. Got her up to temperature and ran in 2 and 4 wheel drive. Going to leave the hubs locked for a few days to get the new grease to circulate.
Also, just put down a deposit on a '78 2F.
Also, just put down a deposit on a '78 2F.
Well from our conversations earlier….congratulations on the 2F…
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Used the 8274 to help pull some trees the direction I wanted while cutting them. Mainly, away from my neighbor’s house.
Decided that I was tired of the starter motor sounding like an FJ60. I found a couple old style starters (they're cheaper than dirt around here). One looks to have been rebuilt so I put it on. I like the joyful noise it makes. I'll carry the gear reduction starter in my trail-spares box
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Chungas Revenge
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brian
SILVER Star
Same.
They both work just, but yet I seem to be happier when its a direct drive doing the work.
A few weeks ago @Aloha Jen, @GA Architect , @70fj40, and @knuckle47 (maybe some others) were talking about a mod that blew me away and now I have to do this. Yes, in case you missed it, the 3rd Brake Light Hub Cap! Now, I'm not going to let the small details, like not having OEM rims or hubcaps get in the way on this one. I have 16 inch white spoke trailer rims, but they have always been bent and hard to balance. They look good! And I can run 235/85/16, which are perfect. They also cost about $50 per rim at E-trailer, a great Economy option. But it's time to buy the factory Toyota rims and caps while I still can, and then I'll look for those Kenda Klevar 33x9.5-15s next time I need tires. I got the Blazer International B95 light that GA Architect used (although the packaging said Hopkins Towing, the light itself was branded Blazer and the package said B95), and followed his advise for installing it from the back side of the hub cap (Oh yeah, already got those from my local Toyota, it took less than 24 hours to get them 
). So, here is where I am, now I just have to get the rims.
Have a great week everyone!
). So, here is where I am, now I just have to get the rims.Have a great week everyone!
Mine are the same way with the center bolt. It was driving me crazy trying to get a new c clip on the shaft that was not sticking out far enough. So I just used the bolt.I got my knuckle rebuild merit badge this week.
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Used up nearly all of a roll of blue shop towels.
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Pleased to say I have very shiny knuckles now.
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One thing I discovered is my Warn wheel locks are "not like the others". In my case mine didn't have the circlip shown in so many videos. It has a bolt through a retaining washer (or is it a bushing in this application). Anyway, I shot a video of the disassembly that I'll post later.
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Wound up doing a front caliper replacement while I was in there.
I'd be super stoked that this work is done, but while test driving it I discovered a radiator leak.
So that's on tomorrows list.
I’ve been daily driving the Land Cruiser over 2 years all around Colombia and just went over 308,000 km’s
186,000 miles. It’s been fun! I bought it with 265,000 km’s and it’s been running beautifully. Cheers
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I'm curious about the reasoning behind your tire pressures.
With more weight and most of the braking loads on the front tires of the 40, I run equal pressure all around or a few psi more in front.
The individual tire's design will determine what exact pressure feels and wears best but tire loading is a major factor in what psi is best.
If you are often towing a heavy tongue weight trailer or have a lot of cargo in the back I could see adding a few psi in the rear tires. YMMV.
It isn't my reasoning, rather a reprint of the original owner's manual. However, my other rig calls for the same all-around, except when the bed is loaded, then the pressure on the rear goes up more than you run the pressure in the front.
This is my guess, the rear tires can be inflated with greater psi, relative to the weight-bias of the vehicle because: The rear tires don't support as much as the front, so the fronts will likely get hotter, and increase in pressure more. The rear tires don't perform as much braking, so they don't get as hot when worked, or need the extra contact-patch that would result from them being lower. The rear tires don't need to steer the vehicle, thus, working against Newton's law of motion, so conforming to the road may not be as important as reduced rolling-resistance. (When I was younger, we would go 'mudding' just to lock up the rear of the vehicle with the e-brake, making tight turns even tighter.) But this one really sticks out in my mind, consider the situation when the steering is anything from straight-ahead. Up front, the kingpin angle, or the more inboard upper steering knuckle, when turning, it causes the tire/wheel to no longer be perpendicular to the road surface (camber), but you don't want it to loose contact-patch with the road. So, on one side, the tire's inboard sidewall needs to squish a bit more to maintain a good contact-patch, and the outboard sidewall needs to squish on the opposite side of the axle.
I saw a post with huge tires, on a truck with proper wheel-width (unlike the OEM wheels used on oversized treads), and with something like 32psi, I wondered about the tires being able to make a decent contact patch with the road. I slide around a bit with my stock-ish set-up, but nowhere near as bad as when I had 33-inch treads that barely bulged at the bottom.
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Thank you for the clarification. The OM # may have been for full loads. In the interest of safety I hope you think about the following points:
1. Increasing the pressure of the front tires, relative to the rear tires, on a front heavy vehicle will reduce temperature and increase tire life.
2. Less pressure in the rear tires, relative to the front tires, on a front heavy vehicle will improve rear traction and enhance handling safety.
3. When turning, the kingpin angle actually improves tire contact due to body lean and resulting weight transfer and chassis geometry shift.
The point being that you don't necessarily need to rely on tire distortion for traction, rather tires need air pressure to resist distortion.
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Hi Folks,
I hope you're all doing okay & getting on with life.....
Its been a while since l posted & much has happened inbetween, Ute wise the rear axle hubs/brakes have been renewed/rebuilt, was going to have the front hubs/discs renewed/rebuild too but my mechanic found the calipers were partially seized so l'm waiting for new calipers to arrive next month, in the midst of that job he noticed the front exhaust pipe has a seam crack (previously repaired) so it looks as tho l'll be getting a new front pipe too. l put the ute into my spark to look at a couple of electrical issues, engine sometimes doesn't switch off, fog lights inop & fitting a stereo...turns out its the EDIC that needs a repair (transistor issue most likely).. So thats to come out & get sent away for repair (at some point as l'm working & need the ute).. In the meantime l've stripped/sanded the rear tray & its ready for its Raptor paint finish (2 dry days will do it)..made a overhead tray for the speakers ( after rerouting the wiring) & extra storage, next l'll make new door cards (picked up the leatherette at the weekend). l've got a couple of days at home this week so l'll be refitting the original recon radiator, new pipes, gaskets & thermostat..& adding anti freeze for the winter ahead.
One additional 'extra' l hadn't planned on but after l recently had an a/ole brake tested me on the road was to fit a bull bar, so l've spoke to the cops, my insurance & suppliers and l can fit a custom bar & a dash cam set up, so if it happens again l'll have it recorded & the a/ole will get charged..or if worse comes to worse & my patience is at an end & his lucks ran out...l'll have it on camera & l'll have a ready excuse for having driven through him....with the BB protecting the ute & myself. .....
I hope you're all doing okay & getting on with life.....
Its been a while since l posted & much has happened inbetween, Ute wise the rear axle hubs/brakes have been renewed/rebuilt, was going to have the front hubs/discs renewed/rebuild too but my mechanic found the calipers were partially seized so l'm waiting for new calipers to arrive next month, in the midst of that job he noticed the front exhaust pipe has a seam crack (previously repaired) so it looks as tho l'll be getting a new front pipe too. l put the ute into my spark to look at a couple of electrical issues, engine sometimes doesn't switch off, fog lights inop & fitting a stereo...turns out its the EDIC that needs a repair (transistor issue most likely).. So thats to come out & get sent away for repair (at some point as l'm working & need the ute).. In the meantime l've stripped/sanded the rear tray & its ready for its Raptor paint finish (2 dry days will do it)..made a overhead tray for the speakers ( after rerouting the wiring) & extra storage, next l'll make new door cards (picked up the leatherette at the weekend). l've got a couple of days at home this week so l'll be refitting the original recon radiator, new pipes, gaskets & thermostat..& adding anti freeze for the winter ahead.
One additional 'extra' l hadn't planned on but after l recently had an a/ole brake tested me on the road was to fit a bull bar, so l've spoke to the cops, my insurance & suppliers and l can fit a custom bar & a dash cam set up, so if it happens again l'll have it recorded & the a/ole will get charged..or if worse comes to worse & my patience is at an end & his lucks ran out...l'll have it on camera & l'll have a ready excuse for having driven through him....with the BB protecting the ute & myself. .....
On modern vehicles, tire pressure is described on the door jamb - no internet know-how required.
RevISK
SILVER Star
I’ll need to apply a caveat here.
The door jam sticker assumes many things that aren’t really spelled out completely.
It assumes stock tires of a certain brand that fall into a certain range of load and a completely stock vehicle that has a certain amount of fuel at a certain elevation during a certain time of year at a specific temperature. And so on.
Chalk test can marry your specific tires to your specific vehicle. “Can”.
Simple and moderately close to being effective while having the added benefit of being pretty much free.
I don't have any internet know-how. I may be better off for that.
My '08 F250 4X4 has 70 psi for front and rear on its door jamb sticker. I use that as long as I'm running factory rubber. No complaints so far.
I wouldn't dream of lowering the front psi unless off-roading. I'm less critical with the rears. With a heavy camper or other load, more rear psi.
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Got the fusible link back to factory spec. Seems like it’s fairly common for these to be hacked up and mine was no exception. Before and after. Plus the info for the metal fuse clips I used as I didn’t really see anything here when I was searching for it.
Can’t say enough positive things about @Coolerman. Great products, communication, and shipping. Major props to these vendors making it possible to keep these rigs on the road.
Can’t say enough positive things about @Coolerman. Great products, communication, and shipping. Major props to these vendors making it possible to keep these rigs on the road.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Looks fantastic. Great looking rig.
