I’ve been living this nightmare. I did not realize the geometry differences in hard vs. soft tops. Weeks of work to drop the rig 1/2” here, 1” there. I’m exaggerating, but my wrenching time is quite limited these days. Hang in there.
And yes...
The Eastwood looks similar to mine. I think I have a few more dies. Mine is a S.U.R.R kit. I have had it for over 12 years and it does a great job everytime. One of my techs has a hand held like the one you posted that does a good job when...
Progression of simplistic spare tire change: tire cover, "busy" white lettering, blacked out smaller tire; all with the bumperette stickers. Then cleaned-up bumperettes (with visible decal lettering) and finally the OEM clock. Classic plate...
I have an extra couple of these. Just installed the same cable on my 43. Fits all stock mounting points and brackets, works great. Took forever to source, negotiate and import so I bought a few extras. Willing to let some go.
These are not OEM...
Stock length shackles are in. Picked these up from FJParts.com. Fast shipping! They’re Joint Fuji brand, super impressed with the heft and quality of them. Price was great and they came with nice rubber bushings. When I was swapping in the...
By no means am I an expert, I just noticed the specific wording on that bottle and think it might not mean what you think it means. Maybe it’s a non-issue. Here’s the data sheet. Specifically calls out a different oil for synchronized manual...
Differentials: API GL-5
Non-synchronized manual transmissions: API GL-4
Maybe it’s semantics, or just a very grey shade of grey, but considering our transmissions have synchros, that GL-4 doesn’t apply to us.
Not to spark the whole debate again, but that bottle clearly says “for use in non-synchronized manual transmissions” = not for use in our trannys. Why even tempt it when other GL-5 bottles are listed as yellow metal safe?
Another LL11 here. 1982 general market FJ43L-KC. Data plate for the files. Interior is pretty unoriginal, aftermarket bucket seats added at some point.
The 31x10.5 15s are a bit small. Have 16” wheels ready to go. Larger meats might be counterproductive if I’m trying to lower the height. Hoping to have my cake and eat it too.
Honestly just pictures of the overall stance and fitment. But I'm sure we'll get that at some point anyway haha. I'm glad to hear things are riding nice, following this thread!
Drove maybe a half mile so far. Feels much softer. Even just jumping on the running boards the cruiser feels more flexy and less stiff. I had a new set of OME springs I bought for this, and once I saw them I knew it wasn’t what I wanted. I have...
I’ll ask the guru at some point.
I did bring it up with staff when I picked them up from the TT warehouse and I’m fairly sure the feedback was those were there to keep the pack thickness normal, and I could also use them to level the rig...
FWIW I'd call Georg and ask the ? because I believe the fulcrum point ( where spacer ends ) and the space it creates on both sides of the spring let the parabolics travel thru their intended arc whereas a longer surface or no space may effect the...
I can’t see a reason they ‘need’ them, other than to ensure compatibility with 99% of the available U bolts and associated hardware. Most U bolts aren’t fully threaded, so making packs 1” thinner might impact some folks not being able to spin the...
Yes. Good point. Those shims are thick, more like a heavy 3/8” each. I was originally thinking I could use one or two those to level the cruiser lean, then remove the extras entirely to get some more spring/u bolt clearance. But now I’m wondering...
From the pictures I've seen, parabolics have 2 springs and then 2 shims under the springs? You could probably move the shims above the springs for another half inch of garage clearance.
Also would love your impressions of the springs and some...