CB install in the useless space under the radio
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Meanwhile...got the @NLXTACY tire level kit in! Might do a little tweaking, but really happy that this helped absorb a 295 under there. The 275 looked like a saggy diaper on the stock setup.
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And got the green strip hoses together for this (four o’rielly’s later). A 2” anvil Garden loper makes for great hose cutting.
Need me some clamps now.
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step 6: Time for a beer and going out to put some some hours on the boat today (the other money pit)![]()
Yesterday I had the pleasure of going to @fourtrax mechanics lab to install my Supercharger. On the way there, I broke 170K on the odometer.
With the help of @fourtrax, @4LowandSlow, and @Soju, got the oil pump seal, crank seal, key way (that was missing), new radiator hoses and clamps, new water pump, and orange fan clutch replaced. Something that would of took me a lifetime, we accomplished in 10hrs.
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Drove home that evening and temps/average MPG are looking good.
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Thanks everyone involved from start to finish of this journey (@logicbyondreaso, @2fpower, @S.CarolinaFZJ80, @SammyT96LX450, @DARKNESS, @Roxx, and of course everyone mentioned above.
Why the long wait?Drove it for the first time since August.
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Good job!!!Some wins, some losses this weekend.
Wins:
— removed all 7 oil pump screws without stripping a single one
— replaced the oil pump gasket and crank seal (Big thanks to @OTRAMM and @NLXTACY )
— replaced and properly tensioned all my belts, rather easily thanks to all the threads here
— replaced all my big rad hoses
— Engine Oil Change
— Coolant flush and fill
— Fired the LX back up and it was PURRRING. Lower idle than before, down to 700 in P
Losses (forgive me for my sins):
— broke the bypass nipple off my radiator, hello new radiator!
— Just a STREAM of oil coming down from my oil pump cover, FML.
I am new to wrenching. I found some great shop space at a friend’s property. He’s been very kind and let me use one of the 7 bays in his shop. No lift, but no problem there. This oil pump job was straight forward and my guess is somewhere in re-attaching the faceplate for the pump, the gasket went askew and I have this mess on my hands, now. It stinks, and it hurts the ego. I had lots of time, all my parts and tools ready to go and it just didn’t go as planned. I chalk this up to being new and inexperienced.
One big mistake I made was attaching the oil pump face plate from below. I have an ARB bumper on the front and bending over that thing all day is rough on your back and I was taking a break from that and lying on some carpet under the truck. The problem there is I couldn’t see what the gasket was doing. Bad move.
On the sunny side, I’ve done all this once now, this is not my DD and I have a new rad coming. The LX is parked safely in the shop space, awaiting a new oil pump gasket and new radiator. When I came home this afternoon I was down, but I remembered the final step, good old #6 and I’m feeling a little better now, laughing at myself for being such a newb and getting ready for next steps.
Thanks for reading my blog.
Happy Sunday, everybody!
Here you go...added a dingle can for reference.Do you have a pic of the spare from looking behind the truck? Curious how much you see it from there
Nice tow hookHere you go...added a dingle can for reference.
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@BillyGoatMTB
Without a lift, one of these is a must. I don’t have one myself because I have no where to store when not in use. My LC Sherpa has one that I borrow from time to time and it’s a game changer.
Very true. Putting the SC and other things in yesterday would of been an extreme pain in the ass if I didnt have the Topside Creeper. Im also 5'9'' with a 4" lift on the LC. The 6' guys had an easier time than me.@BillyGoatMTB
Without a lift, one of these is a must. I don’t have one myself because I have no where to store when not in use. My LC Sherpa has one that I borrow from time to time and it’s a game changer.
Good job!!!
I just installed the Delta rear ashtray 3D usb upgrades, which are awesome!
Until recently I didn’t have an air compressor. Been spending my money on more important things like stickers and lights. It never occurred to me to let air out of the tires to drop the height down for topside under-hood work. Duh!In my neck of the woods these are a requirement if you want to be a tech because of all the lifted diesels driving around. I sold a bunch when I was working for Snap On. On the 80 I just let the air out of my tires.
HAHAHAHA@BillyGoatMTB
Without a lift, one of these is a must. I don’t have one myself because I have no where to store when not in use. My LC Sherpa has one that I borrow from time to time and it’s a game changer.
Haha rightWhen I look at the @Delta VS website today, I get the same feeling of being a 7 year old and walking into Toys R Us.
Fixed a blown brake line, bled the brakes, and installed new sway bar bushings.
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After I got the stainless line and hardline off the passenger axle I was very confused. While taking the lines off it was apparent that they were not routed correctly. I had seen that the front passenger brake line looked suspicious multiple times while crawling under this rig but I always shrugged it off. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
When I was ready to install the new line I came to realize that this is probably the reason the line gave out in the first place. The failure happened while I was wheeling Sand Hollow with the sway bar disconnected for the first time while owning this rig. I am glad it happened close to town/home instead of the more remote places I usually explore.
Here is a picture of the lines that came off the truck and the new stainless lines.
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After looking at the old hardline line for a few hours and proceeding to ruin the line by trying to bend it to fit where it should have belonged. I decided to call a friend. He had a set of axles and came to the rescue delivering a used OEM hardline off one of his spare axles. At this point it became apparent that the hardline I removed was not OEM and it was way to long. This reaffirmed my suspicion that the incorrect line and routing is what caused the line to give up.
Bleeding the brakes went pretty good. The rear drivers must have had a plugged bleeder screw because nothing came out on the first round using the pneumatic bleeder. On the 2nd round using the pedal I did see some fluid come out along the threads but still nothing out of the hole. I decided to skip the LSPV, I am not sure it even works because the rod wouldn't move up and down. I put about 1.5 quarts of new fluid through the system and it stops great. I guess I got lucky skipping the drivers rear and the lspv.
While bleeding I gave the brakes a good inspection. I will be needing new pads sometime within the year. I am going to delete the LSPV, replace the clogged bleeder screw, and bleed the whole system again when I do new pads.