What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (62 Viewers)

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Now you can come help me with mine. . Or I come to you.
NC is a long ways away lol. Might be cheaper to take it to a shop.

Honestly I would just order new lines and get her done. It wasn't a very hard job other than the confusion with the hardline. Do some research and get it done.
 
That moment you realize a 4 pack of wet family snowboards inside your 80 is not only unacceptable but totally unnecessary 🤣.

BillyGoatMTB needed to connect the overland camping self sufficient mentality to everything.

Yeah, yeah I know Mud, I have thule load bars on her...... I'm so close to landing the old school square load bar board clamps.

Happy Sunday Mud :flipoff2:

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NC is a long ways away lol. Might be cheaper to take it to a shop.

Honestly I would just order new lines and get her done. It wasn't a very hard job other than the confusion with the hardline. Do some research and get it done.

@NLXTACY has some very tasty stainless steel braided extended break lines.
 
Yesterday I had the pleasure of going to @fourtrax mechanics lab to install my Supercharger. On the way there, I broke 170K on the odometer.

With the help of @fourtrax, @4LowandSlow, and @Soju, got the oil pump seal, crank seal, key way (that was missing), new radiator hoses and clamps, new water pump, and orange fan clutch replaced. Something that would of took me a lifetime, we accomplished in 10hrs.

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Drove home that evening and temps/average MPG are looking good.

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Thanks everyone involved from start to finish of this journey (@logicbyondreaso, @2fpower, @S.CarolinaFZJ80, @SammyT96LX450, @DARKNESS, @Roxx, and of course everyone mentioned above.

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Next bought a fancy 14 n 1 gauge system from @MyWhiteSheep who included a tapped and painted water outlet for coolant temp... What he didn't tell me is I'd have to disassemble practically the whole driver's side of the engine to install that sensor! But, a few busted knuckles later the distributor, alternator, battery box, etc was off and I had the thing on. This led to a fair amount of "while you're in there" so I now have new coolant and a new Asian water pump at 90,600 miles.

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

I also used the sandwich plate Darren provided to get oil temp and pressure - sure do hope this thing don't leak!

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

Pics of the gauge once I get my mounting location / strategy sorted.
 
Did a one-over on the truck after we spent some time out in the national forest a week ago. Cleaned some of the debris out of from under the truck from going through water crossings - sticks, leaves, and pinestraw. Also had some moisture in the LH headlight (Depo). Was really surprised to see an intentional channel in the rubber cover for the high beam electrical connection. That was my ingress point. Just disassembled the front end and put the open headlight assembly in the sun. All is well.

Also discovered some fraying on my synthetic winch line. Come to find out the mounting tab for the terminal box was interfering and catching the line and cutting it. Fixed the tab, but now I need a new line :(
 
Fixed a blown brake line, bled the brakes, and installed new sway bar bushings
That hard line tends to be a PITA to hook back up. Betting someone cross threaded yours and just threw what they could get on it. I need to replace my hardline also as it looks to be all bent and re-shaped. May just do 2 and hang on to a reserve. Small enough to easily pack IF you can still get them. My Willwood line is a bit long so may even see about removing that short section and go direct to the upper flex line. Surprised this isn't done more or at all here yet.
I was advised some cracks forming on the passenger mount for the swaybar this week so got a request out to land tank for the beefier mounts.
 
Update dump as I've been doing several things over the past couple of weeks!

First, installed a part-time kit + new prop shaft studs at the t-case side + longfields since I had to have the closer groove to accommodate the hubs - fairly involved but made a lot easier by having a lift:
How was the replacement on the T-case? Fairly simple? I got the lockouts on the wheels this week when I went CM birfs but thought about holding on the T- case end until I see how it is on the rocks and maybe do a T-case re-gear at the same time.
 
It’s been over a month since the engine rebuild started. Finally got it in this weekend. A half day of work left on this still and should be able to fire it up!

Before:
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Now:
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What paint did you use on the SC? Or is it powder?

Looks awesome!

I'm hunting for a trd 1fz SC, someone somewhere has one, just gotta find em
 
Fixed a blown brake line, bled the brakes, and installed new sway bar bushings.
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After I got the stainless line and hardline off the passenger axle I was very confused. While taking the lines off it was apparent that they were not routed correctly. I had seen that the front passenger brake line looked suspicious multiple times while crawling under this rig but I always shrugged it off. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

When I was ready to install the new line I came to realize that this is probably the reason the line gave out in the first place. The failure happened while I was wheeling Sand Hollow with the sway bar disconnected for the first time while owning this rig. I am glad it happened close to town/home instead of the more remote places I usually explore.

Here is a picture of the lines that came off the truck and the new stainless lines.

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After looking at the old hardline line for a few hours and proceeding to ruin the line by trying to bend it to fit where it should have belonged. I decided to call a friend. He had a set of axles and came to the rescue delivering a used OEM hardline off one of his spare axles. At this point it became apparent that the hardline I removed was not OEM and it was way to long. This reaffirmed my suspicion that the incorrect line and routing is what caused the line to give up.

Bleeding the brakes went pretty good. The rear drivers must have had a plugged bleeder screw because nothing came out on the first round using the pneumatic bleeder. On the 2nd round using the pedal I did see some fluid come out along the threads but still nothing out of the hole. I decided to skip the LSPV, I am not sure it even works because the rod wouldn't move up and down. I put about 1.5 quarts of new fluid through the system and it stops great. I guess I got lucky skipping the drivers rear and the lspv.

While bleeding I gave the brakes a good inspection. I will be needing new pads sometime within the year. I am going to delete the LSPV, replace the clogged bleeder screw, and bleed the whole system again when I do new pads.
Your garage/ workshop looks just like mine!
 
Your garage/ workshop looks just like mine!
The asphalt handles various fluids much better than the concrete lol

I have been living with my parents for the last couple of years because I decided to go back to school. I am super grateful for the free rent but I am also ready to graduate this spring and get a place with a dedicated shop for the cruiser.
 
Can’t argue with that. I’m in my 6th house in like 5 years but I SWEAR my next house will have a garage.

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The asphalt handles various fluids much better than the concrete lol

I have been living with my parents for the last couple of years because I decided to go back to school. I am super grateful for the free rent but I am also ready to graduate this spring and get a place with a dedicated shop for the cruiser.
 
Can’t argue with that. I’m in my 6th house in like 5 years but I SWEAR my next house will have a garage.

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My next place might be a shop instead of a house. I will just throw a tent up in the back and get a gym membership for the showers lol
 
My next place might be a shop instead of a house. I will just throw a tent up in the back and get a gym membership for the showers lol
That thought crosses my mind too frequently! A small price to pay for living the dream!
 

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