What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
- Start date
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^^^ Very nice, love the diesel badge and no vents on the fender.
Last week I installed an arb and longfields in the front, and a Detroit and polypro rear shafts in the back. While under there I check the trans fluid and found this. The H55f was rebuilt last summer, and hasn’t been off-road since. Maybe it’s from condensation? Regardless, I’m excited for some winter wheeling with the oil country cruisers in a couple weeks.
That's a ton of water to have mixed in manual transmission oil. I would change the oil twice after that, and keep a close eye on it. Do you drive it long distances to get the transmission hot enough to drive off the condensate? The humidity must be 100% in Calgary....
I know! I was surprised as well. It is normally very dry here, but the truck did spend a little time in the garage, so maybe all the snow melting off the truck in the garage added some humidity? I put some ATF in the 90W and took it for an hour long drive and I will drain this weekend and refill before the next road trip.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
roommate took some pictures of it.
smog pump started clicking loudly so started on long awaited desmog. Going with a Weber carg and going to address the Oil Galley Plug as well. Getting close...
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Built a new alternator to battery wire. The stock one is 10ga and getting old. So I built a new 4ga wire with a 125amp fuse at the battery. Soldered to the lugs, protective sheathing and then heatsink seals at the end. Overkill but it should do the job well. The wire runs down the side of the radiator, across and inside the front cross member then out and up to the alternator. I left the stock wire still attached as well.
BeautifulBuilt a new alternator to battery wire. The stock one is 10ga and getting old. So I built a new 4ga wire with a 125amp fuse at the battery. Soldered to the lugs, protective sheathing and then heatsink seals at the end. Overkill but it should do the job well. The wire runs down the side of the radiator, across and inside the front cross member then out and up to the alternator. I left the stock wire still attached as well.
Nice rear bumper and curious where you got the [Built for Safari Not for Speed] sticker ?.
love the fore ground sceneryroommate took some pictures of it.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Finally got the refreshed 125,000-mile original radiator back in the '86 FJ60 project vehicle, along with the FJ62 fan shroud (the '86 has a rebuilt 3FE) and the remainder of the hoses and clamps. I should have known better, but I re-installed the original nylon drain plug without replacing the original O-ring - doh! So naturally it started to drip after the first couple of gallons of antifreeze/water mix. I rediscovered what a pain in the a$$ it is to drain the radiator in these beasts. It took a while to drain because I only opened the drain plug a tad so I wouldn't have coolant running everywhere. I did a lot of searching here on MUD for some easy retrofits but most folks seem to just put up with it. I got to thinking about a sleeve that could slip over the radiator drain fitting and a 17mm socket came to mind. A short trip to the hardware store netted a socket, a 45* brass street elbow, and a couple of metric O-rings.
I drilled a hole through one of the flats on the socket and tapped it for 1/8-27 NPT threads, then cut off enough of the socket to match the length of the radiator fitting. I had a short section of pipe down in the basement that was already threaded at both ends with 1/8-27 NPT threads. A quick trial fit showed that my idea would work, so I applied a liberal amount of Permatex Waterpump & Thermostat Housing gasket maker to the radiator end and slipped the modified socket over the fitting. The pipe with street elbow will be threaded into the modified socket when I need to drain the radiator. I'll buy a male hose barb fitting and a short length of tubing and package these up in my specialty tool stash, SSTs I guess.
Next up is a final cleaning/paint touch-up on the condenser, along with new R134a compatible O-rings, and installation of the vertical brace, hood latch mechanism, grille, headlight trim, and turn signal assemblies. It'll start to look more like a finished vehicle soon, but even at this stage it looks a lot more complete.
I drilled a hole through one of the flats on the socket and tapped it for 1/8-27 NPT threads, then cut off enough of the socket to match the length of the radiator fitting. I had a short section of pipe down in the basement that was already threaded at both ends with 1/8-27 NPT threads. A quick trial fit showed that my idea would work, so I applied a liberal amount of Permatex Waterpump & Thermostat Housing gasket maker to the radiator end and slipped the modified socket over the fitting. The pipe with street elbow will be threaded into the modified socket when I need to drain the radiator. I'll buy a male hose barb fitting and a short length of tubing and package these up in my specialty tool stash, SSTs I guess.
Next up is a final cleaning/paint touch-up on the condenser, along with new R134a compatible O-rings, and installation of the vertical brace, hood latch mechanism, grille, headlight trim, and turn signal assemblies. It'll start to look more like a finished vehicle soon, but even at this stage it looks a lot more complete.
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
That is looking great John. Hope to see it in August
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
So today was a day too prep and clean up the bottom of the block to install new oil pan gasket and the new oil pan.
Finally got it installed!
Finally got it installed!
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Too unfinished to driveToo clean to drive
. Maybe in a few days.
Too unfinished to drive
I hope you bring this to SAS #2. I’m sure many cruiser heads would like to see it.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
If I could easily transport it to my oldest son in Seattle beforehand he could drive it down with the Seattle contingent
.
Almost went camping in Talladega Nat. Forest, but there's another week of gun season and they don't allow camping in the National Forest until that's over. So I changed my plans to Tray Mountain in N. Ga, but the weather forecast looked miserable. So it looked like a good weekend to get some wrenching done.
Rebuilt my old 8274 yesterday. Brake kit, drum bearings, new 9.5XP motor. I love the simplicity of that model. (he says - after he figures out which parts he was trying to install backwards). I'll figure out the wiring for the new Contactor this week and try to get the ARB bumper on. It's been sitting in the garage in the cardboard packaging since October. It kinda looks like a body.
I also need to get some more substantial recovery points welded/bolted on the ARB. I don't like the thin little tabs ARB puts below the bumper. I know ARB says they are not recovery points, but everyone seems to use them as such. I've never seen one break, but I have bent a couple. I also prefer them higher up on the front where I don't have to dig or dive as deep to get to them.
Rebuilt my old 8274 yesterday. Brake kit, drum bearings, new 9.5XP motor. I love the simplicity of that model. (he says - after he figures out which parts he was trying to install backwards). I'll figure out the wiring for the new Contactor this week and try to get the ARB bumper on. It's been sitting in the garage in the cardboard packaging since October. It kinda looks like a body.
I also need to get some more substantial recovery points welded/bolted on the ARB. I don't like the thin little tabs ARB puts below the bumper. I know ARB says they are not recovery points, but everyone seems to use them as such. I've never seen one break, but I have bent a couple. I also prefer them higher up on the front where I don't have to dig or dive as deep to get to them.
