New 100 owner, long time cruiserhead

[SteveH]

On a whim, I bought a '99 LX470 on Monday. Partly because it's perhaps the cleanest used vehicle I have ever seen. 309K miles, no less. Runs/drives pretty much like new. The PO flushed and calibrated the AHC system with Techstream, even to the point of replacing the rear springs and installing spacers to get the pressures where they needed to be. Extensive records and lots of PM done. Paint is original and glows like new. It was also very reasonably priced. The high miles scared off nearly everyone. Those leather seats are original.

It has no v8 exhaust tick, no leaks, no malfunctions (other than the steering wheel telescoping motor and the high-mounted rear brake light). 100% of everything else works. The AHC goes to full height and drop, but the globes are original, so I will need to check them. Color is 'Riverrock Mica' - gray with a slight green hint.

I have owned a '78 FJ40 since 1990, have an '89 FJ62 since 2013,, and owned/sold an FJ55, FJ45, FZJ80, but never a 100 series until now.

It feels very stately and solid on the highway, which cannot be said of the '98 4Runner I have driven for 15 years. Sadly, I will sell that 5-speed, diff-locked gem, but I can't own them all. I plan to DD this and just enjoy it. Mods will be few-to-none, since my stock FJ62 is a rock star offroad (for what I do with it).

To wit, some photos:

 

[AlpineAccess]

Boom. Nice buy!

 

[LXfromTX]

Same year and miles here. Check out this link for discounted globes.

Impex is LEGIT 4 new AHC globes. Door To Door from Japan, less than 2 weeks

Placed my order on Friday for new globes… message back from IMPEX that they have the rear globes, but the front globes are not due into their Japan warehouse until 11/30.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[SteveH]

I saw those globes. What I need to find is the definitive test as to whether mine are shot. Does anyone have a link to the 'pencil test' posting?

Thanks - Steve

 

[trdcorolla]

Get techstream up and running before spending money on globes. If it feels like your on a pogo stick when you hit a bump, your probably safe ordering globes before getting techstream running.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I saw those globes. What I need to find is the definitive test as to whether mine are shot. Does anyone have a link to the 'pencil test' posting?

Thanks - Steve

The pencil test is not really what you want to check, IMO. Pencil test shows totally dead globes, but you'll feel that on the road. The more telling test is the gradation test which shows you how much fluid is displacing the gas behind the membrane. Check out the thread ABC of AHC and the video and cheat sheet below:

AHC Info

Note: AHC services are now offered at the Air Down Gear Up shop in Frederick, CO. The owner of YotaMD, Andy, is also a co-owner of ADGU and happy to provide some of the common AHC-related tasks you may be interested in. See the link here for details...

www.yotamd.com

Also, awesome find. Looks like that LX has been cared for.

 

[SteveH]

I did some baselining today and the low-to-high AHC test was either 13 or 14 graduations on the reservoir, so that is good.

I did see the CV boots (both) on the passenger side are cracked and soon to split. Sadly, the PO already replaced the driver's side axle with a Carquest axle (tossing the Toyota core). I can hope it lasts...

It appears that you can buy a boot kit for a 100 series at the dealer - 100 Series Front Axle Boot KIt, one side - https://absolute-wits-end.com/100-series-front-axle-boot-kit-one-side/

Steve

 

[KraziAzn]

Check your heater Ts

 

[SteveH]

Heater tees appear to be original, but don't look distressed in any way. I suppose I should just replace them anyway.

 

[MountaineerLC]

Heater tees appear to be original, but don't look distressed in any way. I suppose I should just replace them anyway.

Definitely replace them, it's cheap and easy. They often looked fine till you touch them or they fail at an inopportune time.

Congrats on the LX, that's a great find.

 

[SteveH]

More recent work to bring this up to my standards:

• Removed the ghastly 'Limited Edition' plaques on the front fenders. Walmart alert here!
• Replaced the heater tees, as one of them snapped when I twisted it (described here: DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/diy-replacing-heater-hose-pipe-ts-important.610334/page-41)
• Dyed the seats with water-based gray dye and then treated with leather treatment
• Touched up entire vehicle w/OEM touchup paint
• Fixed 3rd brake light (unplugging/replugging fixed it - it was not working?)
• Replaced bulb for green light around ign. key with #74 bulb
• Replaced both low-pressure PS hoses - leaking at res., and weeping through hose (original). Used 3/8 and 5/8 bulk line
• Replaced all 4 sway bar links - worn, had play, rotted - Rock Auto parts
• Replaced both valve cover gaskets (not hard, but time consuming) - pass. side was leaking slightly, drivers was ok.
• Replaced PCV valve grommet and valve (rock-hard grommet, as always).
• Sprayed fluid film on rear axle/suspension and various rusty bits
• Replaced RF axle with Cardone Heavy Duty. Had to pound on flange with mallet - splines fit very tightly.
• Replaced 'P' and 'D' lights in cluster - a real booger to get the cluster out and non-trivial to disassemble to access bulbs
• Removed pass ft. door cladding - bottom clips totally rusted away - will fabricate new ones. Getting cladding painted by a buddy.

 

[SteveH]

Had to happen to somebody - the brake MC died without warning at 310,042 miles. I tested the system weeks earlier and the pump ran quietly for 42 seconds to recharge the accumulator. I never got 'dying pump or motor sounds'. Then last week, the horn went off in the dash, the brake and ABS lights came on, and I lost all boost after 15-ish more brake applications. I just pumped up the pedal (like you'd do with a bad MC on any normal vehicle) and drove carefully home. I never truly 'lost all brakes'.

I had the 'rusty motor screws' situation (see pix in mirror below) and test-probed that. I later removed the MC and tried to power the motor separately to no avail. I will tear down the motor at some point and look inside.

Observations:

• I ordered a new replacement from my Toyota (not Lexus) dealer, who mostly matched the lowest Internet price. ~$1345 + tax for the P/N 47050-60010.
• I watched the Timmy the Toolman MC replacement YouTube video, which was excellent, but there is no need to take the dash apart - all the bolts and the clevis are easy to reach from underneath.
• I bled the system using my wife pushing on the pedal for the fronts, and she and the pump for the rears. I did not re-bleed after a test drive using the ABS, nor did I use Techstream at any point. The pedal is high and firm and I can stand the truck on end with the brakes. Maybe when I rotate the tires, I'll do one more bleed.
• R+R of the MC took 2 hrs. and bleeding took another 1 hour - no a difficult or time-consuming job.

Steve

 

[SteveH]

Took apart the old ABS motor tonight - totally worn out inside. The brushes wore out and took out the commutator on the motor. A motor rebuild might have saved this unit, but who knows what may have failed next.

 

[Bisho]

I’ve seen replacement motors (non OEM) for sale, as well as rebuild kits. I’m considering preemptive replacement with 293k on it.

 

[Helipilot]

Congrats on the 100. I too have owned FJ40's since 1979 and still have my '77 total frame off restoration I drive regularly but absolutely love my '07 100. Looks like you are doing a fine job on base lining your 100.

 

[SteveH]

@Bisho - I’ve seen replacement motors (non OEM) for sale, as well as rebuild kits. I’m considering preemptive replacement with 293k on it.

I would have to think the insides of your motor resemble mine (at your mileage).