Builds The Mountain Goat - An FJ140/2UZ-FE/Ute Build

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Joined
Jul 25, 2016
Threads
71
Messages
552
Location
Cumming, GA
Website
wellsorted.com
If you saw the title of this thread then you already know this is going to be a lengthy and ambitious project. The plan is fairly simple - take a decent FJ60 and convert it to the ultimate overlanding 60-series rig. I'm pulling what I consider the best bits from many generations of Cruiser to make a mash-up which hopefully will be more than the sum of it's parts.

This is a going to be a rig for my family and a feature build for my shop. We live in the Collegiate Peaks mountains in central Colorado and are spending more and more time crossing the high passes and camping in the high alpine forests. We want a rig that will haul us, the dog, and all our gear with a little more capability than my current FJ60 can manage.

The project is just getting underway now, most updates will be in real-time so progress will be slow. Along the way I'll show you the why and how of the steps to get this done. I'm sure there will be some struggles and as in my past builds I'll share the things I would and wouldn't do again. Progress will be documented here in depth and a lot of photos will be put on my IG feed as well. The goal is to complete this in time for SEMA 2019, hopefully to be featured in a booth or the outdoor showcase. On to the show...

Key Features:

1985 FJ60 Body - bobbed cab behind C-Pillar
1994 FJ80 Frame /Suspension - Suspension/Lift TBD
Custom Ute-style Overland canopy box
2UZ-FE V8 w/H55F
35" Tires, 17" rims

Accessories and Fun Stuff:
Recovery - Winch, Traction boards, Hi-Lift, etc
Armor - Bumpers, sliders, etc
Lighting - LED headlights, Accessory floods, rock lights, etc
12V System - Dual batts, potentially small solar on top of box or portable setup
12V Acc Control - SwitchPros, SPOD, ARB LINX, etc
Comms - CB, HAM, Dash Tablet GPS/Nav
Canopy Box - flexible storage for camping gear, recovery gear, etc

The Vision:

Thanks to @Box Rocket for helping me out with a rendering. I decided to stick with Freeborn Red (the color of the donor FJ60) but embellished it with black trim and a graphic of Mt Princeton, the view I enjoy right outside my shop. Really stoked with the result here...

WellSorted_FJ60_Final_wLogo.webp
 
The Beginning:

I picked up this FJ60 about 18 months ago while I was finishing up my last build. It was for sale in Denver with 135k miles on the clock and in decent condition. The price was right, it seemed to run well, and I needed another 60 to drive while my LS swap was ongoing so after a quick inspection I gave it a new home. It's originally a NY truck and therefore has a little bit of the tin worm but for a daily it's worked out fine.

IMG_20180615_201533.webp


As you can see, the rockers have some sort of Rhino liner on them which was there when I bought the truck. The metal behind these areas seems solid, but there was a patch above the rear hatch. I was a little bit aprehensive of what might be behind the upper section and one day curiosity got the best of me. After a few minutes with the scraper, the problem was revealed...

2017-05-20 11.09.02 (1).webp


I made a hasty patch with some kitty hair and bondo and have been driving it for the past year this way. While finishing up my other FJ60 I've been contemplating solutions to this problem. I decided to snag a roof section just in case I wanted to do a straightforward repair. Siegried and Sons are a couple guys who break down Cruisers in Monument, CO and they had a good donor to cut from...

2017-04-23 15.06.04.webp


As time passed though, I kept thinking of other options. I've spent way too much time on Mud and Google looking at threads and images of bobbed 60's over the past year. This one always caught my eye as a pretty nice conversion:

uploadfromtaptalk1431622485479.webp

But after some consideration, discussions with the wife on how we use our rig, and a few frosty beverages I had to rule out a two-door, just not practical enough for our uses (nowhere to put the 100lb dog!). We circled back to keeping four doors and just repairing the roof. Not a bad plan, but we already have a rig like that and there are a few things that frustrate me about it. The biggest complaint is the looooong rear overhang that hits on everything, the limits of the leaf spring suspension, and finding ways to tie down and organize the rear cargo area.

More internet and Mud searches followed. I looked at all kinds of bed platforms, storage boxes, etc. We also talked a lot about our camping style, gear we want to carry, and the idea of pulling a small overland style teardrop along with us. My ideas and searches kept leading me to Australian sites, Hilux builds, and Ute conversions and the idea that the whole back half has to be cut up anyway so why not go for it. I bounced the idea off some friends, mulled it over a bit more and finally decided what the hell, let's get out the sawzall.
 
That is one killer looking truck concept. Keep it up and keep the pictures coming!

I'm interested in how the H55 will work behind the 2UZ. I am sure some have done it. The H151F might be easier to mate up (like one from a 105 series?) but they are expensive and hard to source.

Also, interested in the control for the 2UZ. Ever consider going with a Haltech and dumping the factory ecu? You won't need transmission control with a manual so no problems there. Additional work getting it tuned but they aren't too expensive and have a solid reputation. There may even be a plug and play harness adapter out there for it, but not sure. Possibly Boomslang Fabrication has done it. They had one for my 1FZ-FE turbo project.
 
Subscribed. Just went up Mt. Princeton last month. Beautiful area and a great design for a truck. Got my bowl of popcorn, ready to watch this develop.:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 
I'm in and with a question. What's your plan for blocking off the back behind the rear seats? I've got a spare 55 that I'm thinking would work for this.
 
I'm in and with a question. What's your plan for blocking off the back behind the rear seats? I've got a spare 55 that I'm thinking would work for this.

Having done something like that on my son's UTE, I would tell you the first class way is to get a retracting window setup for a chevy truck. Nice and flat. We used a sequoia rear gate. Love it, but it is curved, so took up some room in the cab. I think the tundra would be too wide also.

Truck Drop Down Window | Pickup Truck Back Window| Breezer Window™
 
I saw your 60 & @boxrocket ‘s coceptual rendering at 14er Fest. Looking forward to seeing the vision come to fruition!
 
This is a potentially epic rig.... Sub'd!
 
I'm interested in how the H55 will work behind the 2UZ. I am sure some have done it. The H151F might be easier to mate up (like one from a 105 series?) but they are expensive and hard to source.

Also, interested in the control for the 2UZ. Ever consider going with a Haltech and dumping the factory ecu? You won't need transmission control with a manual so no problems there. Additional work getting it tuned but they aren't too expensive and have a solid reputation. There may even be a plug and play harness adapter out there for it, but not sure. Possibly Boomslang Fabrication has done it. They had one for my 1FZ-FE turbo project.

I'll admit that I'm not too far into the 2UZ technical details yet. I'd like an H55 in it because I'm a manual trans guy, but the electronics are the issue. I've mostly been researching the various global applications with 2UZ's and associated computers and harnesses because I'd like to keep a Toyota calibration. A standalone could be an option, but more likely I'd run an automatic before going that route.

I'm in and with a question. What's your plan for blocking off the back behind the rear seats? I've got a spare 55 that I'm thinking would work for this.

Generally I'd like to keep the look of the 60 rear cab and D pillar, so my plan is to graft as much of the original sheet metal as I can. I do not plan to use a tray or ever remove the rear box so a rear window isn't actually necessary, but if I can keep as much of that D pillar as possible it should help me with interior trim finishing options. I'll most likely use the hatch and liftgate but gut the interior structure for the most part and weld it all into a single back panel.
 
So with the plan in mind it was time to find the donor chassis. I had chatted with a guy in Apr/May about an FZJ80 that was being parted out but didn't get serious and by the time I called him back the axles were gone. No Bueno. Fate intervened though, in mid July this beauty popped up on Craigslist out in Pueblo...

IMG_20180727_130753 (1).webp


The story is that the truck was lightly rolled about 9 years ago and the insurance company deemed it scrap. The current owner bought it as a salvage title at auction and drug it out to his farm/hunting property. He lopped off the crunched portions of the roof and has been bouncing around the woods in it ever since. It's a 94 FZJ with only 153k on the clock and other than the cosmetic damage and a few mouse nests it was in surprisingly good condition. I spent a while crawling around under it checking frame dimensions to convince myself nothing was bent. Once I was satisfied we made a deal and on the trailer she went.

I pulled the salvageable cosmetic parts (mostly front clip) and went to work removing the engine. It's a heck of a lot easier when you know it's never going back in the chassis, but still a long dirty job. On the plus side, the parts are valuable and I've made more parting this out than I paid for it so the frame is now a freebie (not counting labor anyway, works on TV right?)

IMG_20180915_173524.webp


With the engine out, the whole powertrain went on Mud and Craigslist. A guy from Denver immediate snapped up the engine/trans/tcase combo as his FZJ had a blown head gasket. Last I heard, he had it installed and it was running great. The remainder of the body was lifted off and given to our local metal scrapper, leaving just the frame.

IMG_20180922_122859.webp


As many of you know, the FZJ80 has a 5" longer wheelbase than the FJ60 (112.2" vs 107.5"). In typical FJ140 builds the donor frame gets cut to address the difference. Given that this is going to be a Ute conversion though, I've been thinking that I might be able to avoid that. While working with Adam on the rendering we were talking about wheelbase and I decided to do a quick comparison by parking my blue 60 next to the 80 frame.

IMG_20180925_131042.webp


The concern with not cutting the frame would be an awkward looking rear wheel well with the centerline of the wheel/tire too far rearward. This angle doesn't do a great job in the visualization but bear in mind these are stock wheels/tires on the 80 (~31") and I'm planning 35's for this build. I'm thinking that with 2" increase in radial size, a bit of lift, and the fact that the wheel well will stop at the 12 o'clock position I may be able to just get away with keeping the 80 frame length as-is. As some of you may know, the Australians commonly extend the wheelbase on their Ute conversions to get more load carrying ability. I can see the argument for that (and a bigger rear box) but given that we're going to use the Goat primarily in the Colorado wilderness I'm not too keen on making the rig any longer. Our roads are pretty tight and sometimes feature pinched switchbacks, so sticking to the 112" wheelbase seems to be a good compromise (and avoids frame surgery).

So that's pretty much where I'm at today. August and September were kind of busy with Solid Axle Summit, family vacation, and paying customer projects so I didn't get much time on the Goat. I also got distracted when a neighbor offered to sell me this...

IMG_20180926_181628.webp


While I do love Cruisers I'm not exclusive to this market and have been wanting to build a ScoutII for a long time. I couldn't pass this one up (note the distinct lack of rust) so she's now got a home in the shop. I'd like to build it for myself but a customer has already stepped up and most likely she's getting an LS conversion and suspension updates, but keeping the original paint/patina look. I suppose that's a story for another thread (and forum) though.

The next big step for the Goat is disassembly of the 60 so I can start mocking up the body and test fitting it to the frame. Hoping to get to that in the next week so more pics coming soon. If anyone needs a 137k mile 2F, PM me.
 
Your rendering looks cool but I think for my personal uses I see some restrictions in your design if I were using it. 2uz is a ok motor for what vehicles they are installed in, but they aren't very robust engines they are a big motor for only 4.7liters, and fuel mileage is poor. I think a 1fz with a turbo would be a better option if your really set on staying Toyota. Would give much more power, has way stronger internals, but fuel mileage will still be poor. My ultimate choice would be either a LS motor which would be easier to swap, give great power and mileage, or a diesel of some sort- brand loyalty means nothing to me really. As far as the storage canopy, your design while looking cool, I think it's a lot of work for almost the exact same amount of cargo space as you started out with except you have access to the sides. Which side access is nice but seems like a lot of time and effort just for that and your storage canopy will only be like 4 feet long. I would stretch the rear axle back a foot or two, then put a 6 foot storage canopy on the back.
 
Agreed with White Stripe, fun idea seems like a lot of work to create a less capable truck. I guess it’s a cool show truck, I just see too many holes in the design to make sense. It will look cool on the internet :meh:

That giant storage box may get you some slightly better departure angle, but are you realizing that the 80 frame has an extra 6-8” of rear frame rail on it?
Regardless, I’d rather have 60 departure angle issues then just moving all that weight up and back. That giant storage box and all that weight up and back is going to KILL you on hill climbs.
That thing is not an answer to departure angle. Cutting the 1/4 panels and putting some tubes under them and beefing up the rear crossmember is.
 
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Those Aussie ute trucks seem like there is a ton hanging off the arse end. There certainly aren't many of these 60 projects to compare to. With the coil rear suspension, you should be able to hack away at that frame and build new at an up angle I would think. I agree with @White Stripe about the boosted 1FZ being a solid pick, but my 4.7 in my 100 with a billion miles and no love still gives 16mpg. I gotta think if you stay concerned about the weight of the rear box (aluminum and such) that you will stay under weight vs. a 100 so might do good on mileage. The 4.7 will run a million miles like it is, but doesn't like boost so you will just have to match gearing to make it have a happy power band. I think the added length will be cool. Just guessing off the mock up picture but that 35 gets real tight to the front of the wheel opening anyway to moving back may just look natural.
 
So with the plan in mind it was time to find the donor chassis. I had chatted with a guy in Apr/May about an FZJ80 that was being parted out but didn't get serious and by the time I called him back the axles were gone. No Bueno. Fate intervened though, in mid July this beauty popped up on Craigslist out in Pueblo...

View attachment 1808514

The story is that the truck was lightly rolled about 9 years ago and the insurance company deemed it scrap. The current owner bought it as a salvage title at auction and drug it out to his farm/hunting property. He lopped off the crunched portions of the roof and has been bouncing around the woods in it ever since. It's a 94 FZJ with only 153k on the clock and other than the cosmetic damage and a few mouse nests it was in surprisingly good condition. I spent a while crawling around under it checking frame dimensions to convince myself nothing was bent. Once I was satisfied we made a deal and on the trailer she went.

I pulled the salvageable cosmetic parts (mostly front clip) and went to work removing the engine. It's a heck of a lot easier when you know it's never going back in the chassis, but still a long dirty job. On the plus side, the parts are valuable and I've made more parting this out than I paid for it so the frame is now a freebie (not counting labor anyway, works on TV right?)

View attachment 1808520

With the engine out, the whole powertrain went on Mud and Craigslist. A guy from Denver immediate snapped up the engine/trans/tcase combo as his FZJ had a blown head gasket. Last I heard, he had it installed and it was running great. The remainder of the body was lifted off and given to our local metal scrapper, leaving just the frame.

View attachment 1808516

As many of you know, the FZJ80 has a 5" longer wheelbase than the FJ60 (112.2" vs 107.5"). In typical FJ140 builds the donor frame gets cut to address the difference. Given that this is going to be a Ute conversion though, I've been thinking that I might be able to avoid that. While working with Adam on the rendering we were talking about wheelbase and I decided to do a quick comparison by parking my blue 60 next to the 80 frame.

View attachment 1808517

The concern with not cutting the frame would be an awkward looking rear wheel well with the centerline of the wheel/tire too far rearward. This angle doesn't do a great job in the visualization but bear in mind these are stock wheels/tires on the 80 (~31") and I'm planning 35's for this build. I'm thinking that with 2" increase in radial size, a bit of lift, and the fact that the wheel well will stop at the 12 o'clock position I may be able to just get away with keeping the 80 frame length as-is. As some of you may know, the Australians commonly extend the wheelbase on their Ute conversions to get more load carrying ability. I can see the argument for that (and a bigger rear box) but given that we're going to use the Goat primarily in the Colorado wilderness I'm not too keen on making the rig any longer. Our roads are pretty tight and sometimes feature pinched switchbacks, so sticking to the 112" wheelbase seems to be a good compromise (and avoids frame surgery).

So that's pretty much where I'm at today. August and September were kind of busy with Solid Axle Summit, family vacation, and paying customer projects so I didn't get much time on the Goat. I also got distracted when a neighbor offered to sell me this...

View attachment 1808518

While I do love Cruisers I'm not exclusive to this market and have been wanting to build a ScoutII for a long time. I couldn't pass this one up (note the distinct lack of rust) so she's now got a home in the shop. I'd like to build it for myself but a customer has already stepped up and most likely she's getting an LS conversion and suspension updates, but keeping the original paint/patina look. I suppose that's a story for another thread (and forum) though.

The next big step for the Goat is disassembly of the 60 so I can start mocking up the body and test fitting it to the frame. Hoping to get to that in the next week so more pics coming soon. If anyone needs a 137k mile 2F, PM me.


I had a nice Scout II once. It was cool but I wouldn't accuse it of being one of the best 4x4's ever made! Those poor guys at IH did the best they could with what they had. Lots of components from other suppliers. Fun for a while.
 
I'll most likely use the hatch and liftgate but gut the interior structure for the most part and weld it all into a single back panel.

No thoughts on installing a slider with access to the rear box?
 

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