Builds TeCKis300 LX570 "FLX" Build

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MaxTrax lists minimum breaking strength (MBS) as 15,432 lb. That seems a bit low. I have a set of Bubba Rope GatorJaw soft shackles which are advertised to have a breaking strength of 52,300lb - more than triple the MaxTrax shackle rating.

Is there a difference between "breaking strength" and "minimum breaking strength"? Some other details I'm missing?
 
MaxTrax lists minimum breaking strength (MBS) as 15,432 lb. That seems a bit low. I have a set of Bubba Rope GatorJaw soft shackles which are advertised to have a breaking strength of 52,300lb - more than triple the MaxTrax shackle rating.

Is there a difference between "breaking strength" and "minimum breaking strength"? Some other details I'm missing?

Im guessing thats the "fuse" of the fuse part and is supposed to be low?
Where would one want it to snap to avoid catastrophe further down the kinetic chain? Earlier no?
 
Im guessing thats the "fuse" of the fuse part and is supposed to be low?
Where would one want it to snap to avoid catastrophe further down the kinetic chain? Earlier no?
Interesting thought. I’m not sure.

I’d imagine it’s better for something soft to break first, before tearing off anything metal.
 
Interesting thought. I’m not sure.

I’d imagine it’s better for something soft to break first, before tearing off anything metal.

I dont know anything about this at all, but, if i were engineering this, i would have a dual failure mode.
First fails safe and that failure would relieve the tension on the rest of the line by releasing a foot or so of a slightly stronger stage connection.
 
Thanks for that breakdown. This is exactly why I'm in serious analysis paralysis with some mods.

I haven't gotten as far as recovery planning yet, im still looking at under the skin options for "fixing" my truck from factory or mod induced shortcomings but each and every decision has so much nuance and know how involved that its some serious research to satisfy my level of satisfaction to pull a trigger.

It seems like the truck will finally be done in 20 years when i will finally be able to justify tossing it around and scratching it all up LOL.
But for someone like me, the journey is most of the fun anyway :). Ill surely be sad when its all done.
Had to chime in here….you won’t be sad, cause you’ll never be “done”.🤪
 
Also, you may not need that fancy F55 bling on the end. I've had it before, but now I just have a loop at the end of my line, no hook, no F55 flatlink, etc. It is one less piece of equipment, one less point of failure and one less thing to become a projectile. Plus it keeps $150 in your pocket. I got this advice from that same instructor, and he's been doing this for a very long time for both civilians and the military and I trust him A LOT.

@TeCKis300 if you grab a factor55 fast fid, some whipping twine with needle, and learn how to use them (easy enough) you can make custom winch lines, bridles, winch line extensions, and the like so much cheaper than buying them. The fast fid is great for field repairs too (line splice, re-terminate a snapped line). And in line with your build, they're light.

Pretty sure this is what I want to do. Skip any and all gizmo on the end of the winch line.

Any chance you have a picture of what you've done?

Warn VR EVO 10 is only $545. Allows me a choice of a better aluminum fairlead. A winch line as you describe. And perhaps still be under the price of a 10S @ $745
 
Pretty sure this is what I want to do. Skip any and all gizmo on the end of the winch line.

Any chance you have a picture of what you've done?

Warn VR EVO 10 is only $545. Allows me a choice of a better aluminum fairlead. A winch line as you describe. And perhaps still be under the price of a 10S @ $745
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I can't lay my hands on the whipping twine, but it is a waxed twine used for sails, I got a small spool of Robline brand with a needle from West Marine for around $10, and it is good for many whips.

The whip helps prevent your lock from creeping when not under tension. You wouldn't need to whip a field splice, but it is good for more permanent termination.

The loop is a double brummel lock splice. That alone is enough to lock the loop from creeping when under tension.

There are forums dedicated to this stuff, I just learned the basics.

That loop guard prevents the loop from being spooled. It has a removable pin, you pop it off and stow it when you spool out your line. In a perfect world the loop on the pin would be oriented upward, but it doesn't fit like that on the TJM T13 for 16+ (there is a steel piece in the way).

You also need a very sharp blade or scissors - the strands of the line are VERY hard to cut.

The yellow tape is to mark rope damage for later replacement or repair. And for marking the maximum extension of the rope off the spool (you need to maintain a minimum number of wraps).

The sharpies are for marking bury depths and cuts - black for light line and silver for dark line.

The fid is used for measuring too (like bury depth).
 
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I can't lay my hands on the whipping twine, but it is a waxed twine used for sails, I got a small spool of Robline brand with a needle from West Marine for around $10, and it is good for many whips.

The whip helps prevent your lock from creeping when not under tension. You wouldn't need to whip a field splice, but it is good for more permanent termination.

The loop is a double brummel lock splice. That alone is enough to lock the loop from creeping when under tension.

There are forums dedicated to this stuff, I just learned the basics.

That loop guard prevents the loop from being spooled. It has a removable pin, you pop it off and stow it when you spool out your line. In a perfect world the loop on the pin would be oriented upward, but it doesn't fit like that on the TJM T13 for 16+ (there is a steel piece in the way).

You also need a very sharp blade or scissors - the strands of the line are VERY hard to cut.

The yellow tape is to mark rope damage for later replacement or repair. And for marking the maximum extension of the rope off the spool (you need to maintain a minimum number of wraps).

The sharpies are for marking bury depths and cuts - black for light line and silver for dark line.

The fid is used for measuring too (like bury depth).

Perfect buddy! Thank you for the winch line 101, and the tips you been dropping have been super helpful to frame my learning as I've dived into other forums on this. The magic nugget I couldn't figure out was how to snug a soft loop on the fairlead - loop gaurd!

The Freedom Winch Line has intrigued me as well but honestly is beyond what I need as it'll be a blue moon when I actually pull line.
 
Happy to pass along what I can.

That freedom line is an interesting idea, but to me a line with a loop is better. A separate soft shackle or hard shackle does the same (or better) job.

Last weekend I winched a simple single line pull, and the only tackle I needed was a tree saver and a soft shackle. Another winch was winching someone else out with a bridle, snatch block and three hard shackles. The extra dodads on the freedom line wouldn't have added much value where a hard shackle is involved.

Another good reason to not have that on the front of your vehicle is UV light deterioration and collecting road grit. Both kill synthetic lines. Keeping your winch line inside the bumper or otherwise covered, and your soft shackle inside the vehicle will help to ensure that your gear is safe to use when you need it.

Plus if you carry a fid, you can put in a fresh loop or splice line if you need to: for you or a friend. It doesn't take long once you've done a couple.

Also, please check me on this, but I think those inline knots reduce rope strength.
 
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I can't lay my hands on the whipping twine, but it is a waxed twine used for sails, I got a small spool of Robline brand with a needle from West Marine for around $10, and it is good for many whips.

Forgot to comment on this. I have a Speedy Stitcher that I use to tailor and fix some awning loops. Comes with a type of a waxed twine which I think is what you're talking about?

Amazon product ASIN B000HGIJQ4
 
Maybe the same? I don't know a lot about it. I just grabbed this stuff in black color which was recommended by an instructor:

ROBLINE Whipping Twine Kit with Needle | West Marine - https://www.westmarine.com/buy/fse-robline--whipping-twine-kit-with-needle--P002_068_003_503?recordNum=5

I don't think any particular product is required. Using the right 90 degree stitches and whips just prevents movement. Also of note, the needle they provide isn't super pointy, it has a flat tip that helps it slip between strands.
 
Interestingly, a soft end-loop is now all the rage and where I'm headed. Even a fairlead dedicated to storing it.

 
All you need to do is terminate with a loop and you have zero metal on the end.
 
Awesome truck! Love the recent work.

Thanks! Been likewise watching your build and evolution and she's a beast.

Reminds me I need to update this thread with the recent additions. To do...
 
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Long time in coming. A build thread for my ‘09 LX570. Hereby known as FLX. Yes, some mild flexing from an understated Lexus. And playing on the F-LX name and what an LX-F could be.

A core goal with the build is to have FLX-ibility. To not build with a single purpose in mind. It’s not a rock crawler, not an dedicated off-roader, not a heavy hauler, and not an overland camper. Yet it can do all those things without spoiling day to day usability as Lexus delivered it. Double date night, minivan duty for 8, tow pig, or heavy hauling; none of that has been compromised in this build. Expanding its capability envelope, beyond stock, without compromising its core virtues would describe my build well.

I would like to think It touches on some of Lexus F sensibilities and philosophies, built with some OEM considerations for engineering and balance. To perhaps imagine what a more aggressive factory performance effort could be if such a thing existed for the 200-series. As a trained and practicing engineer, my profession is about making considered design decisions for trade space, executing, and delivering aircraft designs capable of meeting production requirements. The goal with FLX is modify to expand capabilities in off-road angles and clearance (~6" total lift), increasing capacities (2,000lb payload), driving range (500 miles), minimize impacts to ride, efficiency, and handling, while returning parameters back to stock for things like suspension geometry, gearing, brakes. To that end, I prefer to use OEM parts where possible. As much as I like to modify cars, and this certainly isn’t my first rodeo, I find factory parts are far and away more engineered and reliable than aftermarket stuff. Components that go through real analysis, testing, and validation.

One major consideration to the build is to maximize payload and towing capacity. So not adding too much weight was a big factor. Weight is the great equalizer which compromises so many things including every performance measure, capability, and durability. The build has to continue to tow an 8,000lb travel trailer, or haul 2,000lb payloads. So maintaining payload for utility and performance has been paramount.

This build thread is a bit different as it’s a collection of build topics across different threads, and a retrospective look as many of the upgrades have long been done. Hopefully this also answers questions I often get about my build over PM, as this catalogs and links to various more in depth upgrade threads.

FLX has been built over several phases but is close to its final form now. More build philosophy in post #3 below, but let's first get right to the build list.

Tires​


Suspension​


Brakes​


Gearing​


Power​


Fuel​

Armor​


Electronics​


Lighting​


Roof Rack​


Interior​

  • 3D MAXpider Floor Mats
  • Headrest hooks

Camping​


@TeCKis300 who makes the 1" spacers you are using and where can I find them?
 
Interestingly, a soft end-loop is now all the rage and where I'm headed. Even a fairlead dedicated to storing it.



I like this too if not for nothing but the much reduced weight.
I am kind of skeptical on the safety front though. With the kind of force under tension im pretty sure this will still rip limps off.
 

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