eatSleepWoof's Rockwood 1640ESP (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 18, 2017
Threads
63
Messages
2,151
Location
Vernon, BC
This Saturday we headed out for a 6-hour drive to Calgary, to pick up a brand new Rockwood 1640ESP tent trailer. I wouldn't normally buy new, but these were being blown out at cost, and the price was only a bit higher than many 4-5 year old used models on the market.

I had not seen one in person before, but knew the quality would be poor. What I didn't know was just how poor it would be. Luckily I can do everything the trailed requires to be properly road worthy, and will do so in the near future.

The dealer prepped the trailer, gave us a quick walkthrough, and balked at the request to fill the water tank all the way. The techs there stated that the trailer is not meant to be moving with a full water tank, as it is bolted in on one side, but only screwed in on the other, and would likely not hold the weight in transit. Umm... what? I had them fill it up anyways, then got under it, confirmed the horrible mounting setup, and ran a ratchet strap across the bottom of the tank to give it that little bit of extra support until I came up with a proper fix.

When it came to connecting the 7-pin plug, the trailer's wiring barely reached it, and would instantly pull out the first time I did a left-hand turn. The dealership's owner was passing by and happily offered to have their tech make me a 2-foot extension for $129. Yeah, no thanks.

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Drove it as it was to the local Canadian Tire, bought wiring and male+female plugs, made the extension right in the parking lot in 20 mins flat.

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Then we hit the highway for another ~3.5hrs of driving to a favourite camping area near Golden, BC.

We stopped at a pull out for a break, and found it had a scale. The LX weighed in at 3360kg (two people, large dog, camping gear, trailer on the hitch), and the attached trailer weighed in at 800kg even.

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We found an awesome (new, to us) camp spot right on the water, and got super lucky in taking it, as another vehicle (which we had passed on the highway some 30 mins earlier) pulled up behind us no more than 60 seconds later.

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After bouncing around on 12km of a dirt road, we found that the only two drawers had both opened in transit:

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A quick look-see showed that these drawers are assembled via staples. Horrible construction that will need fixing.

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The weather seal on the transit-door was also torn:

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And a lot of the original sealant is already cracking:

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... also note that the dealer's techs unequivocally believe in "more is better," instead of using a quality sealant to begin with.

On the other hand, being inside the trailer is fantastic, and is a complete game changer for us. Tons of room, I can stand with room to spare, lots of sleeping areas, running water, propane heater, tiny fridge, stereo, lights, etc.

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The attached awning did not come with any guy lines to stake it down, and the very first, lightest breeze you can imagine flipped it up on the roof:

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I mentioned that on the way in to the campsite, the trailer bounced around like mad. After setting up camp I did a quick walk-around, read the warning labels, and it occurred to me to check the tire pressure (I didn't bother airing down as we weren't going far, were exhausted and in a rush). Tires are rated for a max of 50 PSI. The spare was at 46.5 PSI. The passenger-side tire was at 49.5 PSI. And the driver-side tire was at... 62.5 PSI. Amazing techs strike again! Dropped all tires to 30 PSI and it rode way nicer on the way out.

--

Immediate plans for the trailer:
- water proof the exposed mdf/plywood on the bottom, as well as on the insides of the lid
- re-seal... everything
- figure out why there's a switch that doesn't do anything, and why we could not figure out how to turn off the interior lights (I'm thinking that's not a coincidence)
- replace all accessible metal screws (which seem to be the only hardware holding literally everything together) with proper bolts or rivets

Short-term plans for the trailer:
- have the tongue cut + extended a few feet
- add a removable max-coupler
- add an XO750 trailer jack
- have a metal box built on top of the extended coupler to house a proper fridge (incoming in a few days)

Long-term plans:
- new suspension; probably Timbren
- wheels of matching bolt pattern, and larger AT tires
- add a water heater
 
I've mentioned it in other threads, what I like to do is put a trailer light receptacle on the trailer tongue. Then I make a male X male trailer plug jumper to run between the TR's receptacle and the trailer's receptacle. That way when the trailer is being stored the jumper can be unplugged and stored out of the weather. A bonus here is that a different TR with a different trailer light receptacle is only a new jumper away from hooking up and working.
 
I've mentioned it in other threads, what I like to do is put a trailer light receptacle on the trailer tongue. Then I make a male X male trailer plug jumper to run between the TR's receptacle and the trailer's receptacle. That way when the trailer is being stored the jumper can be unplugged and stored out of the weather. A bonus here is that a different TR with a different trailer light receptacle is only a new jumper away from hooking up and working.

Great idea, thanks!
 
This Saturday we headed out for a 6-hour drive to Calgary, to pick up a brand new Rockwood 1640ESP tent trailer. I wouldn't normally buy new, but these were being blown out at cost, and the price was only a bit higher than many 4-5 year old used models on the market.

I had not seen one in person before, but knew the quality would be poor. What I didn't know was just how poor it would be. Luckily I can do everything the trailed requires to be properly road worthy, and will do so in the near future.

The dealer prepped the trailer, gave us a quick walkthrough, and balked at the request to fill the water tank all the way. The techs there stated that the trailer is not meant to be moving with a full water tank, as it is bolted in on one side, but only screwed in on the other, and would likely not hold the weight in transit. Umm... what? I had them fill it up anyways, then got under it, confirmed the horrible mounting setup, and ran a ratchet strap across the bottom of the tank to give it that little bit of extra support until I came up with a proper fix.

When it came to connecting the 7-pin plug, the trailer's wiring barely reached it, and would instantly pull out the first time I did a left-hand turn. The dealership's owner was passing by and happily offered to have their tech make me a 2-foot extension for $129. Yeah, no thanks.
Drove it as it was to the local Canadian Tire, bought wiring and male+female plugs, made the extension right in the parking lot in 20 mins flat.
Then we hit the highway for another ~3.5hrs of driving to a favourite camping area near Golden, BC.
We stopped at a pull out for a break, and found it had a scale. The LX weighed in at 3360kg (two people, large dog, camping gear, trailer on the hitch), and the attached trailer weighed in at 800kg even.
We found an awesome (new, to us) camp spot right on the water, and got super lucky in taking it, as another vehicle (which we had passed on the highway some 30 mins earlier) pulled up behind us no more than 60 seconds later.
After bouncing around on 12km of a dirt road, we found that the only two drawers had both opened in transit:
A quick look-see showed that these drawers are assembled via staples. Horrible construction that will need fixing.
The weather seal on the transit-door was also torn:
And a lot of the original sealant is already cracking:
... also note that the dealer's techs unequivocally believe in "more is better," instead of using a quality sealant to begin with.
On the other hand, being inside the trailer is fantastic, and is a complete game changer for us. Tons of room, I can stand with room to spare, lots of sleeping areas, running water, propane heater, tiny fridge, stereo, lights, etc.
The attached awning did not come with any guy lines to stake it down, and the very first, lightest breeze you can imagine flipped it up on the roof:
I mentioned that on the way in to the campsite, the trailer bounced around like mad. After setting up camp I did a quick walk-around, read the warning labels, and it occurred to me to check the tire pressure (I didn't bother airing down as we weren't going far, were exhausted and in a rush). Tires are rated for a max of 50 PSI. The spare was at 46.5 PSI. The passenger-side tire was at 49.5 PSI. And the driver-side tire was at... 62.5 PSI. Amazing techs strike again! Dropped all tires to 30 PSI and it rode way nicer on the way out.

--

Immediate plans for the trailer:
- water proof the exposed mdf/plywood on the bottom, as well as on the insides of the lid
- re-seal... everything
- figure out why there's a switch that doesn't do anything, and why we could not figure out how to turn off the interior lights (I'm thinking that's not a coincidence)
- replace all accessible metal screws (which seem to be the only hardware holding literally everything together) with proper bolts or rivets

Short-term plans for the trailer:
- have the tongue cut + extended a few feet
- add a removable max-coupler
- add an XO750 trailer jack
- have a metal box built on top of the extended coupler to house a proper fridge (incoming in a few days)

Long-term plans:
- new suspension; probably Timbren
- wheels of matching bolt pattern, and larger AT tires
- add a water heater
That's quite the experience for your family - picking up the new trailer and spending the 1st night in it. An adventure for all of you! You have your work cut out for you - but you've got a plan, you know what you want to accomplish and a positive attitude. A worthy project. Keep us posted with your progress.👍:popcorn:
 
I ordered a few waterproofing products:

1. Eco Advance EAWOD16CON 16-oz Exterior Wood Siloxane Water Repellent Liquid Concentrate, White But Dries Clear
- This will be used to treat all exposed plywood/mdf. Not sure how well it'll work given that I'll be applying it from the bottom, and it may not soak into the material. I may try to apply a stain initially, and then this product.

2. Herculiner
- Will apply this over everything on the bottom, after the #1 step is done.

3. Sikaflex-291, Marine Applications Fast Cure Industrial Grade Polyurethane Sealant & Adhesive, 300ml Black
- This is the product I'll use to replace all sealant.
 
sikaflex 291 is the bomb. Nice trailer and amazing camping spot!
 
I've had such good results from 5200 that I haven't tried the 291. Seem to be parallel products?
 
So, electrical...

This is how the brand-new trailer came:

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I think it's safe to say the world would be better off without the person that did this work.

I armed myself with all my goodies and got to work:

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First thing first, I decided to remove the circuit breaker that was on the frame (to clean it up). The very first bolt promptly snapped in half:

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Good thing I have an army of circuit breakers handy from my Tacoma days:

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I drilled out the original CB mounting holes, installed brass rivnuts, and attached a new 100amp, (matching size) waterproof Bussman. An upside of my unit is that I can manually open the CB, and thus kill power to all electrical inside the trailer. This will be handy for storage at home.

I then spent some 5-6 hours underneath the trailer, disconnecting, fixing, protecting, and re-routing everything I could. There are still four residential-lamp style cables that are messy, so no pics just yet. There's no way to disconnect those cables without tearing apart half the trailer, so I will soon cut them, fix what needs fixing, and splice them back together. That's a project for another day, and pics will come after that's done.

By and large, I removed useless, plastic covers on all terminals, replaced them with marine-grade (adhesive lined) shrink wrap, wrapped each wire in either braided sleeving or split loom, shrink wrapped the ends of those, routed and secured the wiring properly. I also intend to liquid-tape the remaining, exposed connections everywhere that's accessible.

I also added military terminals + covers in the battery box, and ended up with this result:

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Not pictured, but I also added wiring with a regular 2-prong trailer plug for trickle-charging the battery at home. The battery box's case went overtop of all this (made cutouts for the wiring), and was strapped down.

Much cleaner than it used to be, but there's still a ways to go.
 
Looks much tidier!

I am a bit concerned about the long stud on the breaker attached via bus-bar to the battery. In the pics it looks like it could slowly wear a hole in the battery case. I suspect giving the bus-bar a 1/4 twist will relieve that concern as well as protect from pooled moisture causing a short across the breaker's terminals.
 
Looks much tidier!

I am a bit concerned about the long stud on the breaker attached via bus-bar to the battery. In the pics it looks like it could slowly wear a hole in the battery case. I suspect giving the bus-bar a 1/4 twist will relieve that concern as well as protect from pooled moisture causing a short across the breaker's terminals.

Yes, definitely a good point. I will flip that thing around so it's upside down, how it was originally.
 
If you clamp one end of the bus-bar in a vise and grip the other with a Cresent wrench you can easily put a 90° twist in it. Just be sure to completely cover the one hole with hte vise jaws and the other hole with the wrench. Prevents it from twisting where it needs to be flat. Twisted like that it will shed any moisture that might build up and still point the breaker studs in a safe direction.

And while I'm thinking about it, I've found that rubber vacuum caps to work well on the end of those studs to keep me from shorting a wrench on them.
 
Threw on this cargo basket, mounted a few quick-fists, and secured the camping axe & shovel.

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Happy to have these items out of the truck. Now I need to figure out a mounting solution for my table. Thinking some z-channel aluminum will let me mount it under the roof rack/cross bars.
 
К - качество :))))
Надо было встретиться, раз в Калгари были :)
Причем судя по фото из Canadian Tire - вообще были возле нас :)
 
К - качество :))))
Надо было встретиться, раз в Калгари были :)
Причем судя по фото из Canadian Tire - вообще были возле нас :)

Won't be in Calgary again any time soon, but we do like camping in the Golden area where you saw us last year, so if you're ever planning to head out there, shoot me a PM!
 
If I'm seeing it right, that black thing between the rails on the roof is an electrical connection for solar?
If so, what I've seen done is to use your proposed Z sections to hold a rigid solar panel, that can be slid out from under the rack when camped.
 
If I'm seeing it right, that black thing between the rails on the roof is an electrical connection for solar?
If so, what I've seen done is to use your proposed Z sections to hold a rigid solar panel, that can be slid out from under the rack when camped.

Good eye. Exactly what those are.

I've actually done the slide-out solar panel idea on my Tacoma. Had a 100W Renogy panel that slid out from underneath my FrontRunner rack. It was cool, but not without problems. Dust/grime/elements destroy drawer slides/bearings pretty darn quickly, so in my case, the slide-out solar was more cool than it was practical.

I haven't yet decided whether I want to do solar or not. If I do go for it, I'll probably install t-tracks on the roof, and mount solar panels to those.
 
I wouldn't use drawer slides for exactly your reason, Not necessary anyway, with an angle piece located above the panel's frame to control up and tilt movement and some 'C' extensions fastened to it the panel can simply slide directly on the metal pieces. Really slick (pun not intended) would be to make the extensions from delrin.

In the past I didn't think that solar was all that necessary. Right up until I saw a 100w panel keeping up with the compressor fridge in our camper. Now I think they're essential to any camper with a compressor fridge.
 
In my experience, mounted solar panels turn out to be less than practical. They sound like a good idea, but complicate the process when determining where you set up & orient your rig or trailer. Most of us like the shade provided by trees. The shade provided by awnings is almost as good, but in hot weather it can seem worse because the awning fabric is almost a heating element powered by - the sun. The portable panels are yes, less convenient to store & handle, but in the big picture turn out to be more practical and efficient. Park in the shade (if available) and place panel in the sun, turning it as necessary to be pointed directly at the sun.
 
In my experience the hard mounted panels don't yield as much total power over the course of a day, but they're a hell of a lot less work. I'm there to enjoy the area, not tend to a solar panel. I'll compensate by going with a bigger panel.
 

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