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What's the break in procedure for this motor?
What's the break in procedure for this motor?
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- Thread starter J Mack
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- Thread starter
- #1,402
Cam was previously broke in and looked good so this engine will get driven moderately for 50 heat cycles about 500 miles with the Driven Break-In oil then we’ll cut the filter to look for anything that doesn’t belong and then start flogging like it owes me money.
I used my normal cummins Valvoline oil but added a bottle of zinc additive to all the oil swaps I've done during my last engine break in. I side with changing out the oil sooner on the first round (within first 100 miles) to flush out all the machining stuff but I've never looked into the Driven oil line so maybe that is better at suspending stuff, it does have zinc in it so that's great. I think the cummins engine manual has a break in procedure in it but like you I read a bunch of opinions and decided on a route I'd go.
- Thread starter
- #1,404
This is also what I’ve done in the past, talking to my engine builder he was telling me about an oil class he attended and they were teaching about something called “additive clash”, allegedly adding extra zinc to the Cummins spec Valvoline oil products with different additive chemistries can potentially put the engine at risk.
Driven oil engine builder guide also confirms this and not wanting to take any more chances I’m running straight Driven break in oil for this break in process then go from there on going back to Cummins spec Valvoline oil or sticking with the Driven oil.
More info at the bottom of this page. Download Section
From reading their stuff it sounds like they've got some great break in oil. No additional additives needed.
Not sure I completely buy their additive clash statement. I'm sure there is more to it but it does sound a little marketing to me. After more reading it looks like they are using more zinc and moly to fight wear but running less detergents and relying on the end user to perform more filter changes. The high rpm statements made me think of you though.
Are you thinking about to running conventional or synthetic after your break in?
Found their diesel version under the specialty oil, website shows 11.99 per gal. That's a great price for synthetic!
Not sure I completely buy their additive clash statement. I'm sure there is more to it but it does sound a little marketing to me. After more reading it looks like they are using more zinc and moly to fight wear but running less detergents and relying on the end user to perform more filter changes. The high rpm statements made me think of you though.
Are you thinking about to running conventional or synthetic after your break in?
Found their diesel version under the specialty oil, website shows 11.99 per gal. That's a great price for synthetic!
- Thread starter
- #1,406
From reading their stuff it sounds like they've got some great break in oil. No additional additives needed.
Not sure I completely buy their additive clash statement. I'm sure there is more to it but it does sound a little marketing to me. After more reading it looks like they are using more zinc and moly to fight wear but running less detergents and relying on the end user to perform more filter changes. The high rpm statements made me think of you though.
I also “read” their additive clash statement as a bit of “marketing hype” but the way it was explained to me by a guy much smarter than I was some of the newer oils made specifically for the newer low friction engines suffer adverse effects when adding extra additives and to refrain from doing so unless you know exactly how the two will react.
Not wanting to accept that at face value I reached out to a few engine builders I trust to ask about this Joe Gibbs (Driven) oil and the hype surrounding it, to my surprise everyone I talked to has also bought into to hype and runs the driven oil in the high HP engines they build and no they don’t run any extra additives
Again I’m no expert and I only know what I was told or read but the Driven oil gets great reviews from the guys I spoke with and they have all bought into the engineers marketing hype over at Joe Gibbs so who am I to argue.
I am debating the DP40 5w40 Synthetic Turbo Diesel Oil - 1 Gallon Jug @ $43.96 and running it out to 5000 miles instead of the Valvoline Cummins oil - 1 Gallon Jug@ 18.00 a every 3000
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I knew it looked too good to be true (the price I mean). Is this for a quart then?: DP40 Turbo Diesel Oil 5W-40
The picture showed a gallon container but maybe that's just a picture.
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- Thread starter
- #1,408
Sorry, this oil has only been on my radar for less than a year and not something I considered for a daily driver Cummins 4bt like mine. It wasn’t until the machine shop that did the work for me was insisting on using their break in oil that I started digging in further and got to this point that I’m considering it now. The $43.96 is what I was quoted for a Gallon of the DP40 5w40 Synthetic Turbo Diesel Oil and if you click your link and try to buy it comes up the same price $43.96.
I do know the break in oil was about $12.00 a quart so it would make sense that the other oil is about $12.00 a quart
On a side note everyone I asked about it acted like I’ve been living under a rock because I was just asking about it now and it’s been the hottest thing since sliced cheese in their world for a few years now..
I do know the break in oil was about $12.00 a quart so it would make sense that the other oil is about $12.00 a quart
On a side note everyone I asked about it acted like I’ve been living under a rock because I was just asking about it now and it’s been the hottest thing since sliced cheese in their world for a few years now..
Well, you're not the only one who hasn't heard of it so I must be living under the same rock. I considered running an oil bypass set up to get the more fine stuff out and I'd think that might work well or better with the Driven product line with it's more frequent filter swap. I haven't gotten around to it yet. With the boost/power I'm playing with I figured I'd be running into more frequent rebuilds anyways.
- Thread starter
- #1,410
According to Urban dictionary,
$hit show
A description of an event or situation which is characterized by a ridiculously inordinate amount of frenetic activity. Disorganization and chaos to an absurd degree. Often associated with extreme ineptitude/incompetence and or sudden and unexpected failure.
This exactly describes my yesterday, three hours to rewire my electric fan circuit to accommodate the two speed fan (still not sure if any of that works yet), A/C compressor installed and removed six times for various reasons (still not convinced it won’t come off again for some unknown reason), down pipe magically doesn’t fit into its hole without unbolting the engine and sliding everything over to the driver’s side and removing the turbo ( this pipe was removed and replaced with engine in place for each of the turbo swaps), two hours of fighting to get a wire on the starter I finally removed the starter and made a jumper wire with a plug only to strip out the lower bolt hole, still determine to try to start this pig I continued with the exhaust system that’s proving impossible to do by myself.
Decided to call it a day and drink beer early, I did manage to get a picture of my day’s progress!
$hit show
A description of an event or situation which is characterized by a ridiculously inordinate amount of frenetic activity. Disorganization and chaos to an absurd degree. Often associated with extreme ineptitude/incompetence and or sudden and unexpected failure.
This exactly describes my yesterday, three hours to rewire my electric fan circuit to accommodate the two speed fan (still not sure if any of that works yet), A/C compressor installed and removed six times for various reasons (still not convinced it won’t come off again for some unknown reason), down pipe magically doesn’t fit into its hole without unbolting the engine and sliding everything over to the driver’s side and removing the turbo ( this pipe was removed and replaced with engine in place for each of the turbo swaps), two hours of fighting to get a wire on the starter I finally removed the starter and made a jumper wire with a plug only to strip out the lower bolt hole, still determine to try to start this pig I continued with the exhaust system that’s proving impossible to do by myself.
Decided to call it a day and drink beer early, I did manage to get a picture of my day’s progress!
I think we've all had days like that my man, I feel your pain!!
Uugh! Hate it when they fight back.
I recently stripped one of my starter holes too. I found the next SAE size up that would fit and tapped it out to that. I didn't even need to drill out the hole, just tap. The bolt just barely fits in the holes of the starter and this time I recalibrated my arm torque and applied less.
I recently stripped one of my starter holes too. I found the next SAE size up that would fit and tapped it out to that. I didn't even need to drill out the hole, just tap. The bolt just barely fits in the holes of the starter and this time I recalibrated my arm torque and applied less.
I find myself calling off early and doing what I do best, too!
Sorry to hear of your frustrations. I have confidence you'll work through it, just hopefully before you take a sledge hammer to it.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Exactly the kind of shenanigans that go on when I am on the wrench...
When I read your posts I think that you just whip these projects off. Somewhat comforting to see that even the big dogs have some issues too.
- Thread starter
- #1,416
Engine is up and running, only got to put 4 miles on it but hope to get out and put some more on it tomorrow.
I rebuilt the A/C system with a new compressor and when I was charging it the high pressure line started leaking so I spent most of the day tracking down a new line.
I rebuilt the A/C system with a new compressor and when I was charging it the high pressure line started leaking so I spent most of the day tracking down a new line.
Good Job! You work fast.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Looks so neat and clean in there. Like your battery trays, pistons?
- Thread starter
- #1,419
Thanks guys!!
I was thinking that it would take two weeks to turn this engine deal around and pushed out my schedule three weeks to get it done, unfortunately the pressure plate deal and some shipping delays put me behind and it snow balled to four weeks from there and felt like I was never going to get it done.
On the plus side I was able to redo some stuff that’s been bugging me from the first build so I guess it all worked out..
Bob, yes those are skulls and pistons. When I first made the battery boxes I had some car audio battery terminals and cut the tops to fit them. Those terminals sucked and I switched to the mil style but they hit the old tops and I needed to whip these out quickly, I was trying to have some fun with the new tops but in hindsight I probably would have done something different.
I was thinking that it would take two weeks to turn this engine deal around and pushed out my schedule three weeks to get it done, unfortunately the pressure plate deal and some shipping delays put me behind and it snow balled to four weeks from there and felt like I was never going to get it done.
On the plus side I was able to redo some stuff that’s been bugging me from the first build so I guess it all worked out..
Bob, yes those are skulls and pistons. When I first made the battery boxes I had some car audio battery terminals and cut the tops to fit them. Those terminals sucked and I switched to the mil style but they hit the old tops and I needed to whip these out quickly, I was trying to have some fun with the new tops but in hindsight I probably would have done something different.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
I would leave them, nice custom work. I have some ideas for mine.
