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[J Mack]

Someone may find this helpful one day.

On a Holset HX30W turbo it uses a V clamp to hold the cartage to the turbine housing and mine is cracked, three days of calling turbo rebuilders, Holset dealers and whatever else Goggle turned up and getting nowhere without a part number I found an exploded view with corresponding parts numbers.

The part I needed was Figure 28 V clamp ( turbine side ) part number 3590606.

Holset Model HX30W Repair List - 3590145 reference - Turbos - TurboMaster




A call back to Performance Turbochargers, LLC (a Holset reseller) with the correct Holset part number and the clamp is on its way.

Contact information for the company is as follows;

8482 Cherry Avenue

Fontana, California 92335

Phone: 1-866-887-2648

Fax: 1-909-429-7204

Office Hours: Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That is great info.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Nobody can say you don't do your due diligence. I hope it all goes back well for you. I'd wish you luck, but if you're like me that would suck!

 

[J Mack]

I got the engine back from the machine shop Friday and assembled to the point of paint, I used Cerakote Glacier Series Coating again for the long block and this needs a five day full cure time so I’m off to the shop to clean the rest of the parts and paint some new accessories with a heat cure Cerakote Coating and machine some parts to modify my bump stops.

I had a strange issue going on with my clutch/pressure plate setup and needed to send it back to the manufacture to inspect, after talking to them about the replacement they recommended combination of organic and metallic disc friction surfaces it has sintered metallic surface on the pressure plate side and organic composite disc friction material on the flywheel side. This setup is supposed to take a couple hundred foot pounds more of torque but still be fairly chatter free, I’m hoping to see these parts early next week and get this pig back on the road..

 

[J Mack]

Upgrading the oil pump to the 24 valve pump, more info on the difference between the 12 and 24 valve pumps here, Factory 12v Oil Pump vs Revised 12v/24v Oil Pump - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

 

[J Mack]

New clutch parts showed up this morning but unfortunately they look to have the same issue as the parts I sent back..

 

[bobm]

That's not right

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What am I missing here? IIRC that curved plate is supposed to be there.

What's wrong specifically?

 

[J Mack]

What am I missing here? IIRC that curved plate is supposed to be there.

What's wrong specifically?

Ha, the short answer I dunno……….

The slightly more complicated answer is I had an issue with exactly half of my flywheel and exactly the same half of my pressure plate showing signs of heat indicating slipping and the other half looking practically untouched. On occasion I would blow thru the clutch trying to drive over rocky sections in high gear but really hasn’t been an issue since I fixed the high/low linkage on the transfer case, but in hindsight this clutch seamed to underperform almost like it was only gripping on half its surface.

So after talking to the clutch/pressure plate manufacture about the picture above I sent all the parts back for inspection, the manufacture had a few theories most of which I didn’t agree was plausible but I agreed to check when I assembled this go-around. After checking every part for burrs that would prevent it from seating squarely and bolts torqued properly I was measuring from the bellhousing to the pressure plate fingers and noted a .068” difference from extreme high to low, unbolting and rotating the clutch disc and re-assembly the issue would follow the pressure plate giving me the impression that this new setup will wear just like the old setup.



Working with the manufacture now to resolve this but pig is on hold for now..

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got it, so in the picture you're trying to show with the straight edge that the pressure plate is not square to the flywheel?

That is a strange problem man. If the clutch was slipping, which is usually what causes heat marks like that (as you know), I would expect it to show heat marks everywhere, not just on one side.

The bushing that the throwout bearing rides on isn't worn funny, is it?

 

[J Mack]

Kind of, the picture is showing the fingers of the pressure plate not square after everything is tightened down and in my mind not applying even pressure on the clutch. Throwout bearing is a hydraulic bearing and it was inspected and rebuilt at the manufacture and showed no signs of unusual wear.

 

[J Mack]

Have you done the same test for the pressure plate on a flat surface?

My thought being maybe a 'leg' was manufactured wrong.

That’s the rub.

Checking the pressure plate on a flat surface (not bolted in place) the fingers measure within a couple thousandths and this is the method the manufacture uses to check both the new and old unit. Unfortunately when you bolt it to a flywheel with a clutch disc the fingers pull down unevenly ( about .068") leading me to believe it will have uneven spring pressure on the disc and or contact my hydraulic bearing unevenly causing leaking issues. These are the exact issues I was experiencing with the old unit.

 

[J Mack]

I was actually talking about the legs that bolt to the flywheel.

It’s getting a bit beyond my pay grade to trouble shoot much further and I hate to speculate on exactly what this problem is so I’ll wait to hear form the manufacture.

This problem seems like something I'd run into You've got my sympathy.

You and I have a knack for throwing buckets of cash at some really cool parts that fall short of expectations, I’d expect this drama from inexpensive Chinese knockoffs but when you search out quality name brand parts and pay all the money for them it starts getting old fast and takes some of the fun out of our hobby

 

[PabloCruise]

...when you search out quality name brand parts and pay all the money for them it starts getting old fast and takes some of the fun out of our hobby

That is no fun at all, the chronic feeling of defeat...

 

[J Mack]

Thanks Pablo,

The frustrating part for me right now is dealing with manufactures that knowingly send out of spec parts out for sale then charge me hundreds of dollars in shipping back and forth trying to get me serviceable parts. Once it’s back up and running we’ll load the dogs up for a camping trip and quickly forget all this drama and get back to the reasons this pig was built in the first place (put a smile on our face every time we drive it)!



Engine is sitting back in the frame rails and parts are getting bolted back up. Pump gear marks got washed off at the machine shop so it took a few hours to reset the pump timing mostly because I had forgot most everything I did last time, plan for today is get the rest of the hard to reach parts back on the engine and ready to set the inner fenders back on tomorrow.

Making several new parts and mods as it’s going back together unfortunately I haven’t taken many pictures.

New fan shroud.

And just because I wasn’t spread thin enough a new rear bumper cover.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Once it’s back up and running we’ll load the dogs up for a camping trip and quickly forget all this drama and get back to the reasons this pig was built in the first place (put a smile on our face every time we drive it)!

I'm with you on this! Don't mind working on the wagon, just would like to use it for a change. You've made good headway.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Loving it.

No pictures of the pistons in the bores or the head being torqued on?

Through what I've learned through this thread, I'm going to pick up another long block and start building a new motor for my rig.

 

[J Mack]

Through what I've learned through this thread, I'm going to pick up another long block and start building a new motor for my rig.

This was my plan from the beginning when I discovered the excessive blow by, unfortunately I was dragging my feet getting it done and that forced me to spend the equivalent amount of money on next day shipping and it’s still taking longer than I hoped for.

I’m kicking myself for not buying the complete P-pump engine for $3000.00 when I had a chance, at the time it was a bit more than I wanted to spend on a core I planned to rebuild but in hindsight it would have been a wash money wise and I would have another engine to keep or sell and recoup some of the expenses.

 

[PabloCruise]

Thanks Pablo,

Once it’s back up and running we’ll load the dogs up for a camping trip and quickly forget all this drama and get back to the reasons this pig was built in the first place (put a smile on our face every time we drive it)!

And just because I wasn’t spread thin enough a new rear bumper cover.

That is what it is all about - driving w/ a big ole cheese-eating grin on your face.

And damn, you do nice work!

 

[J Mack]

Getting ready to start the engine today and I’m going to try the Joe Gibbs Racing Break-In oil (Driven Oil), I’ve read some interesting articles and talked to numerous people and the Driven oil product line keeps coming up as the top oil for use in a flat tappet engine like the Cummins, I’m still debating running their DP40 5w40 Synthetic Turbo Diesel Oil at least for the first couple of oil changes.