What was the final outcome on the pressure plate problem?
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- Thread starter J Mack
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- Thread starter
- #1,422
Let’s just say I impressed with the owners willingness to work with me but not much else.
If I had more time to devote to a new system I would have scraped this one.
Maybe when you get everything else dialed in, it won't be a problem any more.
soooo. I made my wife come and see. wow.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Teeeeee shirt
it ought to be three, for continued interest.
- Thread starter
- #1,427
Thanks for the kind words.
I took the dogs for a 100 mile joy ride down to the river to get some miles on this new engine, first thing I noticed is this combination of parts makes a different sound when cruising at highway speeds, the old engine had somewhat of a growling sound and this engine is more of a buzzing sound, it’s not a bad thing it’s just going to take some getting used to the sound at speed to gauge shift points.
This new engine seems to like/want more timing than the old engine and I’m struggling to find the happy place a balance between good on road manners without adversely effecting low end torque, I’ve been bumping it up 2° at a time to about 18° now and it appears like it wants more. For now I’m going to hold off and just finish breaking in the engine then recheck my spill port to get an exact number but 20° plus of timing is an area normally reserved for the high RPM only diesel engines.
The two speed Volvo fan appears to be working now that I actually took the time to hook everything up correctly, driving normally down the road at freeway speeds it stays at 185°/190°, I kicked the A/C on to put extra load on the engine and pulled a moderately steep long hill @ about 80MPH and the temps creeped up to about 210° when high speed on the fan kicked in and dropped the temp right back down to 195°/205°, for now I’m calling this a victory but our temps in Boise have been in the mid 60’s so I’ll wait until after summer to cross it off my list of things to keep an eye on.
No update in the sty is complete without pictures…
Dog are happy we are finally done working in the shop and they traded grease and oil to dirt and water in their toes.
I took the dogs for a 100 mile joy ride down to the river to get some miles on this new engine, first thing I noticed is this combination of parts makes a different sound when cruising at highway speeds, the old engine had somewhat of a growling sound and this engine is more of a buzzing sound, it’s not a bad thing it’s just going to take some getting used to the sound at speed to gauge shift points.
This new engine seems to like/want more timing than the old engine and I’m struggling to find the happy place a balance between good on road manners without adversely effecting low end torque, I’ve been bumping it up 2° at a time to about 18° now and it appears like it wants more. For now I’m going to hold off and just finish breaking in the engine then recheck my spill port to get an exact number but 20° plus of timing is an area normally reserved for the high RPM only diesel engines.
The two speed Volvo fan appears to be working now that I actually took the time to hook everything up correctly, driving normally down the road at freeway speeds it stays at 185°/190°, I kicked the A/C on to put extra load on the engine and pulled a moderately steep long hill @ about 80MPH and the temps creeped up to about 210° when high speed on the fan kicked in and dropped the temp right back down to 195°/205°, for now I’m calling this a victory but our temps in Boise have been in the mid 60’s so I’ll wait until after summer to cross it off my list of things to keep an eye on.
No update in the sty is complete without pictures…
Dog are happy we are finally done working in the shop and they traded grease and oil to dirt and water in their toes.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Love that Pig. Boxer and Pit?
- Thread starter
- #1,429
Thanks BOB,
Yes boxer and pit unless we’re booking a spot at a camp grounds that have dog restrictions then its boxer and American terrier
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Ya, in same boat with Dane and Bullmastiff. Or mini Poodles to some
I second holding off on increased timing until you're broken in. Have you re-torqued your head bolts yet?
I have decided that I'm going to run some vents in my hood close to right above my radiator. The plan is to let that hot air exit and not swirl around under the hood which should help out when under load charging up a hill. My goal is to reduce under hood temps (since my air filter is currently open) and I'll be interested to see what that does to my coolant temps.
I have decided that I'm going to run some vents in my hood close to right above my radiator. The plan is to let that hot air exit and not swirl around under the hood which should help out when under load charging up a hill. My goal is to reduce under hood temps (since my air filter is currently open) and I'll be interested to see what that does to my coolant temps.
Unreal man, what a beautiful install.
Is the valve cover PCV system new with this motor?
- Thread starter
- #1,433
I’m going to get the 50 heat cycles before I re-torque the studs, I need to remove the fuel lines to get to some of the nuts, I also need to remove my air horn and used the last of my pressure-rated thread-sealing washers and won’t have the replacements until next week.
So the plan is to take a day to change the oil, re-torque the studs, adjust the valves and check spill port to confirm timing then put it back together hopefully for the last time..
Thank you!
I added that valve cover last year sometime as a Band-Aid to the baseball size oil spot I would leave on everyone’s drive way with all the blow by I had out the side vent. It worked for a time but as the blow by got progressively worse I opened the side vent back up and ran both for about the last 3 months of that engines life.
I’ve had the Keating side cover to block off the side vent for a while but waited until now to put it on.
- Thread starter
- #1,435
I was able to get out to the shop for a few hours yesterday and work on the rear bumper, the plan is to keep it compact and out of the way of the branches that ripped my factory bumper ends off.
The plan when time permits is to build a spare tire carrier to use a combo of receiver and recovery bolts holes so it can be easily removed.
So after trying a few combos I settled on this, basically it just covers the new rear cross member with the recovery points and receiver and has some minimal wings to hide the rear body opening out to the rear body mounts.
Lifting eyes screw into pads welded to the frame.
The plan when time permits is to build a spare tire carrier to use a combo of receiver and recovery bolts holes so it can be easily removed.
So after trying a few combos I settled on this, basically it just covers the new rear cross member with the recovery points and receiver and has some minimal wings to hide the rear body opening out to the rear body mounts.
Lifting eyes screw into pads welded to the frame.
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- Thread starter
- #1,436
I wanted to have a receiver plug and some sort of shackle attachment point and couldn’t find what I wanted so I made my own. I still need to ¼ round all the edges but I’m content for now.
Cut a little long and scribe a line flush with the bumper.
Then machine to the scribe line, this is how it will be stored and act as a flush receiver plug.
Flip it around and screw one of the lifting eyes into the end and I have my shackle attachment point without carrying a bunch of extra crap in my recovery bag.
Cut a little long and scribe a line flush with the bumper.
Then machine to the scribe line, this is how it will be stored and act as a flush receiver plug.
Flip it around and screw one of the lifting eyes into the end and I have my shackle attachment point without carrying a bunch of extra crap in my recovery bag.
- Thread starter
- #1,437
Soon, I need to finish with engine brake in and work on the tune a bit then sign me up for some trail rides..
- Thread starter
- #1,438
I got my 500 miles and did the oil change to the Driven DP40 5w40 Synthetic Turbo Diesel Oil, Summit racing had it for a decent price with no tax and free shipping so not too bad price wise.
We cut the old oil filter apart and everything looked normal so fingers crossed this engine will last for a bit longer than the last.
Re-torqued the cylinder head, readjusted the valves and checked spill port, timing was around 12° during the break-in period and it was running a bit rich so EGT’s would climb quick if you weren’t keeping an eye on them, I bumped timing up 2° at a time to the 18° that I’m running now. This engine seems to like more timing and it runs smoke free with lower EGT’s at 18° with the same fueling and bottom end seems about the same as the 12°. I killed my wideband when the old engine $hit the bed so as soon as I get the new one installed I’ll get back to fine tuning the fuel and timing but it feels about right where it’s at now.
A few general maintenance items like rotate tires and change diff oil on this pig and I can get back to my trail pig..
We cut the old oil filter apart and everything looked normal so fingers crossed this engine will last for a bit longer than the last.
Re-torqued the cylinder head, readjusted the valves and checked spill port, timing was around 12° during the break-in period and it was running a bit rich so EGT’s would climb quick if you weren’t keeping an eye on them, I bumped timing up 2° at a time to the 18° that I’m running now. This engine seems to like more timing and it runs smoke free with lower EGT’s at 18° with the same fueling and bottom end seems about the same as the 12°. I killed my wideband when the old engine $hit the bed so as soon as I get the new one installed I’ll get back to fine tuning the fuel and timing but it feels about right where it’s at now.
A few general maintenance items like rotate tires and change diff oil on this pig and I can get back to my trail pig..
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What's your target AFR at idle and WOT when tuning with the wideband?
- Thread starter
- #1,440
Idle is 99:1, WOT sustained I’ll shoot for 18:1 and try to keep the EGT’s 1300° or under on a long steep climb under heavy load.
