Target carrier (2 Viewers)

[davegonz]

Yeah, what NPULVER said. If your mounts are stiff, it will still move, but not as bad as those fluid filled ones. I swear my 4BT moved an inch or more especially on shutdown.

 

[J Mack]

Thanks guys, the mounts are from Cummins Diesel Repowers and are made specifically for the 4BT, basically it’s a soft durometer 12 valve 6BT mount. http://cumminsdieselrepowers.com/Motor_Mounts.html





I was able to start the engine yesterday and break in all the new parts. Lots of duct tape, bailing wire and ratchet straps holding parts in place not to mention the creative radiator hoses, but even with all the temporary rigging the engine started right up and ran well. Now I need to shift gears and start on wiring the pig and building the new dash.

 

[npulver]

Awesome news!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Nice to hear them run! Looking forward to the dash.

 

[J Mack]

Working on my wiring and ordering some last minute parts, just talked to Scott at perfect switch to make sure I ordered to correct “Power Gate” dual rectifier isolator. After spending the entire day dealing with unknowledgeable, unhelpful, unfriendly people at literally every other place I ordered parts from Scott was a very welcome phone conversation.

If you’re looking for a battery isolator and would like to talk to someone intelligent, helpful and friendly for advice on what you need give Scott at perfect switch a call.



http://www.perfectswitch.com/orderingbuy/

 

[npulver]

I forget, your planning on running a dual battery setup in this correct? Assuming you went dual isolator, which options to buy with this?

 

[J Mack]

I forget, your planning on running a dual battery setup in this correct? Assuming you went dual isolator, which options to buy with this?

Yes two batteries, I have a 210 amp alternator so I ordered the 250 amp dual rectifier isolator with the “Battery Combine feature”.

I was on the fence about running an isolator or not and just recently decided the peace of mind was worth the cost of the unit. After poking around on the interwebs it seemed the Power Gate switch had a good reputation.

Now I need all my Deustch connectors that I had to order from different suppliers to all show up about the same time and the Carling switch guy to answer the phone or return e-mail and I’ll be well on my way to having a functioning pig.

 

[scrapdaddy]

JMack,

I've read good things about the Power Gate, also. Something I need to focus on. You've picked all good products. When retired you won't have time to fix stuff, doing it right the first time!

 

[J Mack]

JMack,

I've read good things about the Power Gate, also. Something I need to focus on. You've picked all good products. When retired you won't have time to fix stuff, doing it right the first time!

Thank you Ron,

I’m constantly caught in this catch 22 of not wanting to spend money but not wanting cheap parts, seems like I always get bit by the Chines parts failing before their anticipated life expectancy so I’ve adopted the buy once cry once approach with this build. Time will tell if it pays off.

 

[TuffMudder]

Time will tell if it pays off.

Never be afraid to buy the best. It usually does pay off in the end

 

[J Mack]

Working on my dash layout and switches.

I try to get a photo of my dash tomorrow.

 

[npulver]

WHOA! where'd you get the TEQ switches?

 

[J Mack]

WHOA! where'd you get the TEQ switches?

I grabbed the TEQ logo from brands of the world website and used a font that I like called sign painter and laid out all my switches like this battery switch.

 

[J Mack]

Dash version 28.2, I’m still jockeying things around trying how best to fit 60 lbs. of junk in a 30 lb. box but for now I think it will be some version of this. I originally wanted to try to make something resemble the factory layout but after 27 failed attempts I’m moving on and succumbed to the fact that this is not an OE restoration and if I want conveniences I will need to compromise on the factory OE look.





On the bright side wiring is moving full steam ahead and UPS is making daily deliveries of new parts.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Wow! That's nice. What material are you using for the dash? You are a craftsmen. Love the drink holders.

 

[bobm]

Yeah, what NPULVER said. If your mounts are stiff, it will still move, but not as bad as those fluid filled ones. I swear my 4BT moved an inch or more especially on shutdown.

Nothing wrong with a STIFF mount. Sorry couldn't resist

 

[J Mack]

Wow! That's nice. What material are you using for the dash? You are a craftsmen. Love the drink holders.

Thanks Ron,


Currently it’s cardboard and duct tape, once I settle on a final design it will be machined from 6061 aluminum. I’m trying to incorporate some sort of storage space under the gauge cluster in the center section but so far it’s just a mound of cut up cardboard in the scrap pile. Like everything else on this project my knack for over complicating the simple stuff is dragging this build on way longer than it should.

Just picked my new front springs and they look very close to what I needed to keep SUA and clear the 4BT oil pan.

 

[J Mack]

Switches showed up and OTRATTW gave me exactly what I asked for. Problem is I’m not sure I like them with the TEQ logo.









I’m still working out my front end issues and think I’m close, the issue is the 4BT oil pan and front third member want to occupy the same space and with the OME heavy springs I had I would have been limited on compression travel so I had some new springs made and I’m able to cycle the suspension through its travel from lock to lock on my anti-inversion shackles and still have 1.5”-2” space between the third and oil pan when compressed all the way, but I need some sort of bump stop to give me a “hard” stop in this position. I’ve checked for specs on ploy bumps and could not find where they offered a hard stop at given distance and I’m out of time for wild ass guessing so I ended up ordering 2” travel King air bumps. These very well may not be the best tool for the job but they’ll keep me from poking holes in my oil pan and pushing my springs past their limit when I decide to drive like an idiot.

 

[scrapdaddy]

JMack,

I'd live with them for awhile, you'll either start to like them or yank them. Didn't you notch the oilpan, already?

 

[J Mack]

Yes I notched the oil pan for the drive shaft and planned to modify the front at the same time for clearance from the third, this all went bad when I removed the pan and noticed my oil pickup bolted to the block right where I planned to notch it in the front making it impossible to make any meaningful improvement. With the OME springs I’ve only ever had 5” -5 1/2“of total travel and I wasn’t worried about the clearance issue at the time I set the motor knowing that I only needed a portion of that 5 1/2” travel in compression as long as I could make a hard stop. After I reinstalled the engine it was obvious I need to make changes to my springs to get my 5 ½ total travel back so I built new springs to raise the height up about another 1.5” -2” but I still only have about 2”-3” of total compression and 4”-5” before I hit oil pan making bump stop choices a challenge for me, chances are good I’ll be on the bumps just driving over railroad tracks and I wanted something that was soft for daily driving but offer protection if I decide to hit a bump faster than the advised speed.

Like I’ve said before I have a gift for making the simple things complicated.