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I think we all have that gift, here on MUD. If you can't move the oil pick up, how about making a dry sump? Don't even know if that could work with your diesel, but something to consider. You don't what to be hitting the stops all the time, that would get old when traveling the back roads.

You'll figure it out!
 
I was looking to buy some of the bump stops like you linked from Marlin crawler but I could never find anyone that could tell be the minimum compression length of this style or total compression length for that matter. :meh:

So I ordered the Kings more for the simplicity than anything else.
 
I think you'll like the kings. It's what I have planned in the long run as well.
 
Just talked to Ben at Filthy Motorsports for my front shock needs and again I’m shocked for some reason when I get someone intelligent and helpful on the phone and feel the need to pass it along.

If you need shocks and want to talk to someone that is knowledgeable about valving and options give Ben a call at Filthy Motorsports.
 
J Mack said:
Just talked to Ben at Filthy Motorsports for my front shock needs and again I’m shocked for some reason when I get someone intelligent and helpful on the phone and feel the need to pass it along.

If you need shocks and want to talk to someone that is knowledgeable about valving and options give Ben a call at Filthy Motorsports.
Click to expand...

Ugh, this reminds me that I need to measure and then PM Christa...
 
Soldering one million little wires sucks when you need the bifocals to see what you’re doing then forget to put them on when you insert the wires into the upside down housing and yes removing one million little incorrectly inserted wires and reinserting them correctly really sucks.

I found a nifty little ground block last night at CE Auto Electric Supply and I’m posting it here if anyone needs. http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/groundingsolutions.html

GroundBlock2_med.jpg


I’m not relying chassis ground and I’m running dedicated ground wires for every circuit including all lights so I needed a clean way to tie them all together for the low current circuits, I’ll run a #6 wire from the battery ground to this block and mount it up under the dash. I don’t really don’t have a good reason for running all the extra ground wire other than 90% of my intermittent electrical issues with the pig where ground related and it will take me less time to run the wires now than chase issues later.



Going to take a break from wiring for a day or two and work on bump stop mounts, I’m thinking about making something trophy truck style with tube and dimple die gussets if I have room but most likely they’ll be down and dirty flat plate:meh:
 
I put some speed holes in my heat exchanger tray, not sure if it will help the top end, but I'll have the coolest looking shower on the trail. :)
 
Made my bump stop mounts and have them tacked in place, now it’s time to move back to wiring, I have some other stuff to TIG weld so I’ll finish welding them then.





Not sure if they are trophy truck approved but they should keep me from poking holes in my oil pan on the speed bumps in the Dutch Brothers drive thru. If I were serious I would have worked on better triangulation but I’m just posing and already spent too much time on these.


 
Delancy said:
Feel kinda stupid with four pages of signal light debate, not that it was the first transgression.

You running King shocks, too?
Click to expand...

If it helps, I’m still undecided on my final front blinker situation and I’m looking forward to page five.



Yes the front Kings are getting built now and when I get around to the back I’ve have some built for it then.
 
Last edited:
JMack,

Very nice and as usual, I have a question. How did you determine where the stops were set at? Without the axle back together and driveshaft bolted up, I don't see how you figured the spot to set them.

Very cool stuff!
 
Thank you Ron,
If you look at the bottom picture you can see a little chain fall in the bottom right that I used to suck the suspension down to its lowest point.

Basically my process was this, first I had a set of springs made so when my springs just start to go inverted my third member is 1.5” away from my oil pan then set the bumps to bottom at this point, so using the chain fall and floor jack I could cycle my front springs through their entire range of motion to confirm nothing would bind. My plan is to keep the pig as low as possible and not poke holes in the oil pan.
 
scrapdaddy said:
no worries with the tires hitting anywhere.
Click to expand...


Ha, well I wouldn’t say that, new tires should be here Monday.

I’m trying to travel down a road that has no printed map, I want a 55 with a 4BT and run 35” tires but all the info I can find says the only way to accomplish what I want is to SOA. The issue for me is I want to keep the pig as low as possible and all the SOA rigs are higher than I like so here I am with my tape measure pushing the boundaries one inch at a time, if everything works out I should be around 22”-23” to bottom of frame and the 35’s should clear but I won’t know for a few weeks yet.
 
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