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Hey, nothing wonky about that. I like it! guessing that type of paint doesn't get a clear coat. Sometimes I think, should of went with a single stage paint. What about the roof? White.
 
I forgot to ask you about the motor. You said it's all apart and getting coated. You talking about the whole block, etc.?
 
Hey, nothing wonky about that. I like it! guessing that type of paint doesn't get a clear coat. Sometimes I think, should of went with a single stage paint. What about the roof? White.
I'm not sure at this point, I wanted to two tone but I was back and forth between a dark charcoal black and ivory and I was also undecided if I wanted to just paint the roof or do the traditional paint scheme like yours but with all the other delays I’m out of time so it’s just one color for now. If I find some time and I’m able to keep the rubber side down on our Moab trip I may still add another color later.



Yes this is a single stage acrylic polyurethane and doesn’t require a clear coat, it should be very durable and easy to touch up. I sacrifice a glossy finish for a resilient easy to repair finish that will suit my need for this build.
 
I forgot to ask you about the motor. You said it's all apart and getting coated. You talking about the whole block, etc.?
Yes I tore the engine back apart, I painted it with Imron and the paint was junk so I striped everything back down and painted it with NIC heat cure Cerakote, this is the paint I use on the guns I build its crazy durable and very chemical resistant, I will also paint all my exterior trim with this paint.
 
What color? Wasn't it that great blue?


Yes the engine was blue.

I painted it with DuPont Imron and after the fact I talked to the guys at the paint store about my issues and it seems DuPont has changed the formula quite a bit in the 20 years since I last used it, DuPont still rates Imron as good to excellent for chemical resistance but in reality it’s not good for chemicals I’m likely to use around this engine like break clean or engine degreaser. The new paint I used (NIC Cerakote) is very chemical resistance in fact it passed a 24 hour submerged in paint stripper test and the stuff I used on the head will exhibit no discoloration even past 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. Like I said earlier I’m painting all my parts like grill, mirrors, door handles, bumpers, dash and whatever else I can fit in my curing oven I’ll paint with this stuff,



More info on the paint I used here,



http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/testing/



http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/testing/



http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/resources/files/2014 Glacier Series Brochure WEB.pdf



My P-pump is at the shop getting hot rodded for more fuel and as soon as I get it back Ill slam the rest of this engine back together and post some pics of the new color combo.
 
JMack,

Just seen the picture of the FC. We had one in the family, it was made into a tow truck, but it didn't look like that one! Nice color.
 
JMack,

Just seen the picture of the FC. We had one in the family, it was made into a tow truck, but it didn't look like that one! Nice color.
HA, yes I posted that after your first reply about my wonky cell phone picture. My cell phone wants it to be gray and tones out all the blue for some reason.

That FC has the down played cool look I’m after with my Pig and I think that old school blue color helps a modern vehicle look retro. I’m trying hard to hide all the cool stuff and keep this thing looking like a stock Toyota but still be fairly capable off road, a sleeper of sorts. Probably an unrealistic goal to apply my HotRod idealistic views on a 55 but what the heck it’s a hobby right!
 
I assembled my NV4500 transmission today and slid it up to my transfer case, I updated the main shaft and fifth gear to the new heavy-duty version and replaced all the bearings and synchro’s at the same time. Hopefully my pump will get back from the rebuilder soon and I can get the engine back sitting in the frame.



This thread was very helpful with my trans rebuild: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...ne/516911-diy-nv4500-rebuild-information.html
 
JMack,

I do a little reading on there. I've got a 5500 cab chassis and have learned a lot about it from them. That's a great transmission for the Cummins.
 
Thanks Ron,

I’ve read that the NV4500 was a good transmission but is known for fifth gear coming lose, unfortunately I read about the gear issue after I bought a good low mile trans at a premium, a guy would be better off buying a rebuildable core then updating it himself and have a better trans for less $$$.



I am literally watching paint dry right now, it is ridiculously cold and I’m burning cords of wood trying to keep the shop above freezing but it’s only averaging about 50 in the shop and the paint is going to take 14 days to cure at that temp so I’m back to busy work for a while.
 
Hey, I'm crying like a school girl and it's only in single digits here. Can't imagine what you guys are down to. Sounds like my shop, I can't maintain that high with no insulation.

Good Luck with it, might be a good time to help your Wife with house work! :)
 
Good Luck with it, might be a good time to help your Wife with house work! :)


First of all let’s not mention the house work again, my wife may at some point read this and agree with you then all work on the pig will come to a screeching halt.



Second, your build cursed me into tearing mine down further than I anticipated so you need to be encouraging my wife to let me have the credit card back and work more hours on the pig.
 
Engine is in and I’m working on my cluster plumbing now. I hope my injection pump is done for the second time later this week and I can break-in the engine by the weekend.
 
Looking pretty darn impressive! i would save have a beer, but i see you already have!

What kind of power output are you looking out of this setup?
 
Thank you! :beer:

According to a guy (Dougal) on another forum, way smarter than I it should be somewhere in the 300/hp range and 540 lb-ft torque.



These are the calculations.


Turbo numbers.
 

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