- Thread starter
- #321
Yes I cut the rockers off and had him blast out anything that wasn't solid. All and all the biggest surprise is how little he uncovered, I was bracing myself for some unpleasantness under the five coats of paint.
Target carrier
- Thread starter J Mack
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Looks great. Your skills are awesome!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Sweet! One thing I always wonder is what people do underneath repairs...
What will you do inside the rockers? Will you use weld-through primer on the inside of the replacement rockers?
What will you do inside the rockers? Will you use weld-through primer on the inside of the replacement rockers?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Are you going to shoot it yourself?
Get any closer on color choices?
Get any closer on color choices?
- Thread starter
- #325
Looks great. Your skills are awesome!
Thank you!
I will use SEM 40783 Copperweld on all the lap joints then after everything is welded I have a special snout nozzle for my pressure pot that will let me paint inside all the enclosed areas, it basically a ¼” copper tube for the air with a 1/8” tube on the inside for the paint and I have a few different lengths. I will encapsulate everything with two coats of marine grade epoxy primer then two coats of a polyuria that’s basically a catalyzed rubber membrane.
I'll try to get pictures when I get to that part.
- Thread starter
- #326
I would like to thank Pighead for the tip on using the front finder lip to fix the rear, if we ever meet I owe you a beer
For the bottom I had to build a new inner and outer panels from .080” steel
For the bottom I had to build a new inner and outer panels from .080” steel
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Every damn page is inspiring! Good job, Man.
- Thread starter
- #331
Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you Ron! Reading your build thread inspired me or cursed me into going further on this one.
I thought Toyota had one disgruntled engineer working at the time these 55’s were designed and he worked in the electrical/wiring division apparently they had two disgruntled engineers working at the time these things were designed and the other worked in the body division.
When I make a repair panel I always try to duplicate what the factory did and working on this rust repair has forced me to take a closer look it this abomination. If they set out to build a body to fail then they hit the nail square on the head, if they set out to build a body that was drivable on paved roads then they failed miserably, if they set out to build a body that could be driven off road in dirt and water and not rust from the inside out then some cruel engineer played painful joke on Mr. Toyota.
- Thread starter
- #332
For Pablo.
This is the process I’m using for my rust repair.
I scrape and wire brush the rusty area then chemically kill the rust, prime with epoxy primer then seal with epoxy paint, the copper color strip is a weld primer on the lap joint.
After everything is welded I will shoot more epoxy through the openings.
This is the process I’m using for my rust repair.
I scrape and wire brush the rusty area then chemically kill the rust, prime with epoxy primer then seal with epoxy paint, the copper color strip is a weld primer on the lap joint.
After everything is welded I will shoot more epoxy through the openings.
That's my plan also. Drill few holes where necessary and shoot in 3M rust fighter then plug holes.
http://3mcollision.com/products/coatings/3m-rust-fighter-i-08891.html
JMack,
Did you decide on location of the ac/heater unit?
Did you decide on location of the ac/heater unit?
- Thread starter
- #335
Yes, I went back to the center but I'm shorting the defroster vent tubes so I can move it up a little higher.
You may have gone over it before, and yes I know there are a ton of opinions and write ups on paint....
but, If you don't mind me asking what epoxies have you settled on?
but, If you don't mind me asking what epoxies have you settled on?
- Thread starter
- #337
I was going to use DuPont Imron industrial coatings but I settled for Acrolon because I think it’s a bit more durable and the system I’m using should offer better future rust protection.
Recoatable Epoxy Primer B67 SERIES for the primer, it’s a marine grade primer that should offer years of protection and it has a longer recoat time than most epoxy primers.
http://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=B67A5
Acrolon 218 HS Acrylic Polyurethane for the top coat, it very durable for a paint and looks better than a bedliner coating on the outside.
http://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=B65B600
Thanks!
I have been planning to use Imron as well. I'll look into the Acrolon.
I have been planning to use Imron as well. I'll look into the Acrolon.
- Thread starter
- #339
Acrolon 218 allows for double the dry film build and has better ratings across the board, especially Impact resistance.
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
JMack, any chance you could shoot me the files for your engine mounts and cross member? I'm going to see in my guy can use them. Do you have an nv4500 behind your cummins?
