- Thread starter
- #301
I striped the pig down to the bones today and the tailgate rusted bolts kick my ass, my question is how do you reassemble to torsion bar hinge side when you put it back together? 
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- Thread starter J Mack
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Keep the faith bro, I have some pics from the FSM I can load. It is a process which tries the patience... I think I may have a few pics of the reassembly in my POTM thread.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Thank you Guppie!
A couple small victories today.
First, my battery boxes will work and I can now fit two batteries!
Second, my condenser mount is very close and with a little tweaking I will be able mount everything behind the grill and not have to modify any of the factory latches or bracing. It’s important to me to have cold AC and with an electric fan for the engine I wouldn’t get enough air flow over the condenser without the addition of a pusher fan mounted to it and as you Pig owners know space is limited for two fans, a radiator, an inner cooler and a condenser.
What condenser did you end up buying? Do you think it will fit in a factory Pig rad support?
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #304
Restomod Air, 11-1041 CONDENSER, PARALLEL FLOW (093-42190-S)
It will fit in a stock support, you will need to drill a couple mounting holes and depending on your radiator location you may need to drill a hole for your top A/C line.
- Thread starter
- #305
Just looked it up and I completely agree with your sentiment.
I am printing your scanned pages now, thank you very much!!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Just looked it up and I completely agree with your sentiment.
I am printing your scanned pages now, thank you very much!!
You bet man. I forgot that MUD made all my photo attachments little thumbnails. I am fixing them now, but here are the relevant pages... Pay attention when they talk about removing the one bottom screw from the hinge where the torsion rod attaches.
See how in the bottom picture they are levering the torsion bar out, so they can get the block of wood behind it? Once you get the torsion rod blocked away from the body you can begin to affix the hinge to the body and tailgate.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Here are my posts related to getting that torsion assembly back on:
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
The torsion bar assembly is so cool when it is working, the first assisted tailgate I bet
- Thread starter
- #309
I was going to go with some combination Nebula green but a lot of the recent 55’s builds have been painted that color and I’m thinking that I might come up with something different. ( And before you ask no I’m not painting it pink)
I’m parking this here as it may help someone else with a custom color.
Use this tool to generate the color you want.
http://www.sessions.edu/color-calculator
Use this tool convert that info to commercial tints.
http://www.easyrgb.com/index.php?X=SEEK
FYI I used SHERWIN WILLIAMS COLOR (NEW) on the target color collection and my guy is telling me no problem mixing that color in any paint I want.
I’m parking this here as it may help someone else with a custom color.
Use this tool to generate the color you want.
http://www.sessions.edu/color-calculator
Use this tool convert that info to commercial tints.
http://www.easyrgb.com/index.php?X=SEEK
FYI I used SHERWIN WILLIAMS COLOR (NEW) on the target color collection and my guy is telling me no problem mixing that color in any paint I want.
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Looking killer!
- Thread starter
- #313
I guess I should add this tool also, for you firefox guys this little tool will let you click a picture of a car you see on the internet and tell you the color. It gets you close then you can play with it before you use the other tool to convert it to commercial tints.
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/colorzilla/
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/colorzilla/
- Thread starter
- #314
A stick welder + box tubing + angle iron + an idiot = my rear bumper.
By the time I was able to cut everything he put weld on the rear bumper was a goner.
Ready to go to the blaster.
Some busy work, notched the oil pan for some drive shaft clearance.
By the time I was able to cut everything he put weld on the rear bumper was a goner.
Ready to go to the blaster.
Some busy work, notched the oil pan for some drive shaft clearance.
Oh Man, that's a lot of busy work! Are you having it all blasted?
- Thread starter
- #316
For now I'm just taking the main section so I can start patching holes and rust and get it into primer before the cold weather gets here.
I'll deal with the small parts later.
JMack,
I see you have the anti-inversion shackles on the front. Any opinions on them. I need to redo mine and have them on the back, but not the front.
I see you have the anti-inversion shackles on the front. Any opinions on them. I need to redo mine and have them on the back, but not the front.
- Thread starter
- #318
They came in the OME spring kit I bought from Cruiser Outfitters and I think they are good.
I didn't put my bump stops back it because I need to figure out what I'm doing and didn't figure I would wheel it much before I tore it back down, well I was wrong and on the last outing they smacked the leafs enough to mark the springs and I'm guessing saved me from having an inversion issue.
- Thread starter
- #319
Back from the sandblaster, it looks like I won the pig lotto with the lack of rust.
He wasn’t able to remove some sound mat from the floor so I set some dry ice on the mat for 15 minutes and it chipped right off.
He wasn’t able to remove some sound mat from the floor so I set some dry ice on the mat for 15 minutes and it chipped right off.
Really looks good. Did you cut the rockers out already? Good idea to get that area cleaned up before welding in new.
