Congratulations/sorry for your loss! I know how much you wanted a Unicorn. Is the new owner on Mud?
Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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- Thread starter
- #364
Thank you, very kind of you to say.
New owner is going to have painter reshoot areas like hood & fender to eliminate rock chip touch up spots and other imperfection. Then add clear bra. Also very import where it's going, having undercarriage and inside panels coated with rust preventive on a regular basis.
At some point he'll probably have Ko2's put on and do more stuff like o2s, coil springs, seat bolster foam. It's going into a family of car enthusiast that appreciates what they have. This is one special rig that is just going to be getting better as it ages.
I don't think we've seen the last of The Unicorn!
New owner is going to have painter reshoot areas like hood & fender to eliminate rock chip touch up spots and other imperfection. Then add clear bra. Also very import where it's going, having undercarriage and inside panels coated with rust preventive on a regular basis.
At some point he'll probably have Ko2's put on and do more stuff like o2s, coil springs, seat bolster foam. It's going into a family of car enthusiast that appreciates what they have. This is one special rig that is just going to be getting better as it ages.
I don't think we've seen the last of The Unicorn!
This is a great thread. Thanks for taking the time to document everything so well.
A bit late to the party, but I never noticed this subtle detail (the above is from page 5).
2007 LX/LC require counterclockwise turning of the crank to 50deg Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC) and then back to TDC. However timing belts for '98-'06 models are changed at 50deg After Top Dead Centre (ATDC).
I was changing the T-belt on a '08 GX470 today and the '05-'09 models also require counterclockwise turning to BTDC. What is the reason the procedure for the '07 models LX/LC is different from the one for '06 models? Both are VVTi (as well as all '05-'09 GX470's).
The confusing part is that the rear cam covers still have the embossed 'T' on them and I was expecting to be changing the belt at the 'T' setting. My belt jumped on me as well.
A bit late to the party, but I never noticed this subtle detail (the above is from page 5).
2007 LX/LC require counterclockwise turning of the crank to 50deg Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC) and then back to TDC. However timing belts for '98-'06 models are changed at 50deg After Top Dead Centre (ATDC).
I was changing the T-belt on a '08 GX470 today and the '05-'09 models also require counterclockwise turning to BTDC. What is the reason the procedure for the '07 models LX/LC is different from the one for '06 models? Both are VVTi (as well as all '05-'09 GX470's).
The confusing part is that the rear cam covers still have the embossed 'T' on them and I was expecting to be changing the belt at the 'T' setting. My belt jumped on me as well.
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- Thread starter
- #366
IDK. I thought all VVT use same procedure (I don't have 06 FSM, only 07), and it say approximately 45deg BTDC. My non VVT FSM's state approx 50deg ATDC. IIRC @abuck99 told me he just set his non VVT at TDC and cams didn't move as belt removed.
Too make things more confusing; Some manuals when giving instruction on "backing off cam slightly to release tension" use CW or CCW as if sitting in drive seat where others as you face engine.
I've not like the instruction either set of FSM gives, but I've always followed them. I may play around with this a bit, on a VVT engine I've got on the stand.
I heard of a Dealerships techs blowing a VVT engine setting timing to the "T"
Too make things more confusing; Some manuals when giving instruction on "backing off cam slightly to release tension" use CW or CCW as if sitting in drive seat where others as you face engine.
I've not like the instruction either set of FSM gives, but I've always followed them. I may play around with this a bit, on a VVT engine I've got on the stand.
I heard of a Dealerships techs blowing a VVT engine setting timing to the "T"
this thread delivers!!!! It has helped me a lot in pulling my 2UZ out of my GX470. If I ever meet you, I'm buying you 
I managed to suck up enough water to hydrolock the engine. I am going to be dropping the new engine in this weekend.
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- #370
On what the 06 GX?
How did it happened and how'd you verify the damage?
Word of caution: Don't force the bellhousing into engine. One shop I know tried pulling together with clamps and busted the bellhousings ears/mounting points. Make sure torque convert seated in transmission all the way.
yea my 06 GX. Was going through a deep water crossing and the engine died. tried to crank it and the crank gets to cylinder 8 and stops. Verified with a socket on the crank and there was standing water in the intake manifold lol.
Hands down the best write up I have seen thus far. What computer program do you use for service manuals? I just order a printed one from factory service manuals.
- Thread starter
- #374
Thanks for saying so.
I have a stack on hard copy, more than 15 volumes of FSM. All my electronic stuff if form TIS.toyota.com I like hard copy in the shop the best, and they show it!
Hi, I am planning to convert a 2006-2007 Land cruiser or a Lexus LX 470 to a manual transmission... looks like you know cruisers in and out, I actually have a thread open if you want to comment or give any advice that would be valuable. You probably know the firewall by heart and what would you think it would take to drop a clutch and brake assembly and physically what would be the hurdles in doing this, cross members on the frame to do the swap etc. Also would you consider taking on a project like this? Minus parts what do you think a project like this would cost? Any advice and tips would be greatly appreciated.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Did the screws twist out with vice grips once you drilled the heads off?
- Thread starter
- #379
No!
Starting with good sharp small drill bit, then working my way up in drill bit size. I drilling off heads of screws so wire can be removed. This is first step in the process.
I then keep drilling until near nothing left of screw at contact plate.
Them used my cold chisels to gently tap the nut out from under contact plate.
The trick is to not damage plastic in any way, and remove little to no amount of metal from the contact plate.
Then clean, grease with dialectic and install new OEM nuts and screws. Factory also recommends new wires.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Thanks for adding these links!
