Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (1 Viewer)

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Area under (as usual) is in need of cleaning. This one really isn't bad, most much worst.
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E. brake cable set in a bracket with pocket at bottom. To much fluid from spills can eventually overfill pocket and start causing issue with E. brake cable. Cleaning up now and then not a bad I'd if one regular has spills or slushes from coffee cup.
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Aftermarket audio installers make me crazy with the typical HACK work that they do. I won't let them touch my vehicles for this reason. I am really anal about about wire routing, etc.
 
Aftermarket audio installers make me crazy with the typical HACK work that they do. I won't let them touch my vehicles for this reason. I am really anal about about wire routing, etc.
I hear ya. Even the stuff like tires, windshield, etc I'm in the shop watching. No longer do I go grab a cup, while others work on my stuff.
 
Pulled the inner console framework apart and cleaned up.
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After scrubbing and wire brushing I added a light coating of grease. I allowed grease to soak in overnight, then I wiped off leaving residue of grease.
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I made a custom passthrough for the Antenna and Audio input wires in bottom of console box using a rubber grommet. I didn't pass the Sirius wire housing block through, as felt it would be hidden away if added/used. I don't know if a sirius box would be sharing antenna with receiver through wire housing block or if this extra antenna would be used. Nore do I know if it would be powered through wire housing block or need separate power run to it. Radio stuff is just not something I've ever dealt with. I rarely even turn on a radio while driving.
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A note on pulling the console cover. They have four fasteners clips (yellow arrows) that press into console. Two are under console cover and two are under cup holder. Care must be taken when pulling this out to make sure it's pulled evenly. Otherwise the plastic of the cup hold where it's fastens (red arrows) to console by screws will crack.
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After twisting (unscrewing) off transfer case shifter knob. What I then do is use my thinnest plastic body tool and pry up just a little, lifting about 1/8" at each green arrow. I do this with cup holder door open. This releases the clips about halfway. Then I pull up with a snapping motion, holding/grabbing from inside cup holder.
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I used CRC electronic and Lexol plastic cleaners to clean up switches and console cover before installing.
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As I go through interior cleaning up, I make small repairs as needed.

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Tool cover benefited from some added bump stops, made from furniture self adhesive backed stops. Keeps from rattling.
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After using a car washes dry carpet shampoo, I touch up as I install molding and seats.
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These 2nd row seat to bracket bolts are torqued to 27ft-lbf.
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Darn found this R Rear Vent bulb out after I'd buttoned up the LH dash. Off it comes again.
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I've a door panel interior light lense on order. To replace one I found cracked. Seems the interior lights were upgraded to LED by PO. I'll add that here when I get it and install.
 
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For the metal center console bracket, why not a coat of grey rattle can primer? Wouldn't the grease attract dust? But that wouldn't really be an issue, being out of sight and all right?
 
For the metal center console bracket, why not a coat of grey rattle can primer? Wouldn't the grease attract dust? But that wouldn't really be an issue, being out of sight and all right?
I'm not concerned about dust in area, just the liquids. Most times/rigs I've just cleaned area, sometime adding bake soda in area to absorb odor and neutralize acid of coffee & soda.

I considered painting with POR-15 or primer I've on hand. But it's smooth surface, possible stainless steel which most paints will not hold well to, much less POR-15 which must have a rough surface to adhere to.

The grease has rust inhibitor and will repel moisture. My biggest concern using grease was odor. But the Red-N-Tacky passed the GF smell test, it's has very low odor kind of a nice smell actually. So I felt just wiping on then off, leaving a thin film, a good and simple solution.

It's amazing how clean and undamaged the silver painted counsel is! any recommendations for refinishing / replacing this for examples not as fortunate as The Unicorn?
Just clean it up as I did. As mentioned above, I use bake soda sometimes. Just dump it in after cleaning.

You could replace all metal pieces with new I suppose. Cost would be about $120. But all pieces may no longer be available. I did see the large plate for $60. But that would be overkill in everyone I've seen.

Amazing job. What kind of dry shampoo are you using?
IDK. It's just a car wash in my area with a dry shampoo coin op machine. It has a very strong odor, so strong I use a respirator to drive home afterwards. You can imagine the funny looks I get with my mask on driving down the road...:cautious: It takes two or three good vacuumings afterwards to finish the process.

After thoroughly cleaning interior as I do, vacuuming two or three times before then after this dry shampoo, all odors are gone for good. The Unicorn didn't have any bad odors, but it's a process I go through with each rig regardless.
 
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Turn signal blinking rapidly on LH turn. Interesting I hadn't see this before, which simple indicate a fault (bad bulb). The rear LH 1/4 qt tail light had a cracked lens. So while replacing it, I switched the turn single bulb with that of the RH side to confirm the fault was indeed the bulb. It was!

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removal is a snap. Remove the two screws, then pop out at the two fasteners pins.
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The reverse light bulb is LED on each side, all others are incandescent. I think the LED is aftermarket, but IDK. I also thought the tail lights are LED in this year, but these aren't. Anyone know what factory set up is?

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Rear wiper boot was torn so I replaced it. Motor needed a slight alignment adjustment. Something (probably a garage door) pushed it down a bit. Service History show Toyota Dealer replaced the arm.
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PM of lower windshield molding (rust preventing)

Front wiper molding is tricky to remove. First part is easy, just stretch rubber seal pulling to one side at each fastener and slip seal off fasteners. Once the seal is off I pull each fastener up as I pinch lower part to unhook.

These rear hood (lower windshield molding) seal fastener (~12) are flat on the sides, they are slipped back onto seal before installing.
Picture is molding be ready to install by cleaning & condition first. It also shows these rear seal fasters and those of front hood seal.
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Near the center point of each side of molding, are fastener that hook on body. Care needs to be taken to unhook these. Windshield installer often just ripe out and break the tabs.
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Area get gritty and can damage paint from vibration/rubbing.
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I cleaned and lightly sanded to score for painting.
I then painted with POR-15. POR-15 which has a super tough skin. It should prevent any rubbing through paint in the future, preventing rust.
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I can trump that: 4" fuel hose ~$20. Goes between fuel pressure regulator to hard return line.
 
I used Amazon on this rig for some parts. Some which were here the next day, that's cool. But most items are different suppliers and come in separate packages. So I spent extra time finding, buying and inventorying. I also found Amazon parts often cost me more than my usual sources, and I had more returns for defects or poor quality than usual.

My local Toyota Dealer gives me a good price (not great, but ok) plus tax. But I've used him for 14 years and my guy has only missed once on a part. That was the AC O-ring we had issue with. But that wasn't his fault, it was a Toyota part number issue. Even partsouq had that one wrong. Only a Russian parts diagram had it right. My local guy also welcomes my returns, orders me stuff just so I can see it, knowing I'll not likely buy and is only 2 miles away. So I pay a little extra. When I need that hard to find or just a few items or as I'm working, finding this or that I need, I call or email him. It's fast and easy and right.

My big orders go to Mcgeorge, which save ~20% me when I consider no tax. Their software seems to constantly price compare and beat most if not all in the USA. Partsouq can also be great on smaller lightweight stuff. The telescopic motor was a very good price, with shipping only $10 here in 3 or 4 day from the Mideast (UAE) WOW.

When you consider I'm near now at 288 parts and counting. Well,,, you can imagine how much time I spend just putting together a list. Then finding, ordering, unpacking and inventorying it a daunting task. Then tools; buying, repairing and replacing.

I'm now over $9K after purchase costs mostly parts (not including tools and shop supplies), and ~500 hours. I'll bet, 100 hours alone of that is just parts acquisition!

Right now I'm spending to much time on a a silly part(s) (my parts guy is on vacation). So far I've had myself and two others looking for two clips.

It's the third row seat lever clips. I had the dranest time getting the seats to release. It turns out the leaver (a wire/rod) that attaches to the handle was out of it's holder. A clip that holds is what we've yet to find. This one clip, is probable sitting in countless bassment, sheds and garages on those third row seat we most all store in large plastic trash bags. I've toss a few third row in the trash, I wish I had just two of those today. I've 4 hours on these now, and still don't have.

Once I realized why the seat wouldn't release, it was easy to remedy. Just takes two finger and 3 seconds to push wire rod into lever.
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Pulling apart I see a nylon insert that possible has a piece broken off or possibly just worn out IDK. This piece holds wire rod locking it in place.
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My regalar parts guys back from vacation. He found this in 30 seconds. He's so good.
Note, there is a difference between RR & LR. LR is black and clip is reversed.
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