Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

Grease is for things that need to move...

Bolts need to move...LOL

The grease you see me using today is Red-N-Tacky. I use marine grease (MG) also, but the MG stuff I've been getting lately has been to thin. This Red is designed to hold in place without breaking down, doesn't wash out and has rust inhibitors designed for the long term according to the manufacture.

The #3 crossmember bolts I greased heavily, I am trying to repel water and prevent rust. It's an area on all 100 series that needs addressing, sooner the better. To replace those bolt guides, is a $500 Toyota parts and takes a talented welder with engine removed. Hopefully this will buy 20, 30 or more years with the POR-15 and grease.

I'll save the anti-seize for different metals contacting and for areas of high heat like engine.

As for Anti-Seize lasting the long term. Well based on the liquid that came out of my tube of Anti-Seize, it does break down and rather fast. Anti-Seize is really about the metals like copper they add to prevent seizing/galling and to make disassemble easier.

When using anti-Seize or grease on threads, the biggest concern I've heard is over torque. Toyota uses a very lite torque on most thread anyway, so I'm not overly concerned.

BTW: I don't use on every thread but a lot when dealing with frontend and undercarriage, anywhere I've found rust.

Now all that being said. I'm watching for areas like the #3 crossmember to frame points as I noted above. I believe this point holds by clamping force not shear strength of bolts, and I don't want it moving. Another spot like trailer hitch was pointed out to me by another member, that sent me a very interesting aerospace tech write up bolting. It changed my procedure, and I cut back on greasing.

If you've any write ups or other bolt thread infor you care to share, I'm always willing to learn and adjust my porceedures.

 

[medtro]

Now for the new OEM front Drive Shafts, very worthwhile.
Sweet right!

I found this in the installation section. The torque for the tie rod end nut is 90 ft-lb. I know where you got the 53 ft-lb from. I decided to use 90 after reviewing the torque value for the ball joint nuts.


2. CONNECT TIE ROD END

(a) Connect the tie rod end to steering knuckle with nut.

Torque: 122 N·m (1,250 kgf·cm, 90 ft·lbf)

(b) Install a new cotter pin.

 

[abuck99]

Paul,

Noticed something odd in one of your pictures: did you add the safety wire on the control arm caster adjustment bolts?

 

[2001LC]

I found this in the installation section. The torque for the tie rod end nut is 90 ft-lb. I know where you got the 53 ft-lb from. I decided to use 90 after reviewing the torque value for the ball joint nuts.


2. CONNECT TIE ROD END

(a) Connect the tie rod end to steering knuckle with nut.

Torque: 122 N·m (1,250 kgf·cm, 90 ft·lbf)

(b) Install a new cotter pin.

You are correct. TRE to Steering Knuckle Arm is 90ft-lbf.

Paul,

Noticed something odd in one of your pictures: did you add the safety wire on the control arm caster adjustment bolts?

View attachment 1694819

It's a string I've been using for over 10 years to tie up brake caliper while I work in the area. I'm so surprised it/they have never broken, as many times as I've used them..

Nice to see you guys are paying attention!

 

[2001LC]

Dust Cover for brake rotor on knuckle is next. This is the spot I first started adding grease in the front end, that and #1 (skid plate) and #2 undershield bolts. I noticed it worked so well over the year, I've just keep expanding the use of grease on bare metal prats. The metal is dry and greasing seems to bring back to life.

This area between steering knuckle and Dust Cover is always rusting. This 100 series is from GA & TX and rust free, yet look what I find.

Seems rust had not yet eat to deeply into factory paint.

After removing rust and scuffing surface I treated with POR-15 degreaser cleaner and AP120 Metal prep.

I then paint on three coats of POR-15, just to backside where I always find rust. In this case it's for future protection.

 

[2001LC]

During install I really lather this area up with the Red-N-tacky or marine grease, on all sides including seals. Notice I even get into the hole for the wheel speed sensor, keeps it from freezing up.

Note: Some oil seal gaskets have a top and bottom. If inverted it will show gasket at bottom. You do not want this as it will create a pocket that water will hold in.

I finish with my good grease in area bearing reside when ready to install wheel hub. I make sure to keep weep hole at bottom clear/open of any grease plugging it.

 

[abuck99]

That southern rig must have spend some time near salt water-beach etc.

I used the same gasket that goes behind the dust seal, and inserted between the dust shield and the knuckle when I rebuilt mine. We'll see how the combination of two gaskets holds up long term.

 

[2001LC]

That southern rig must have spend some time near salt water-beach etc.

I placed the same gasket the goes behind the dust seal between the dust shield and the knuckle when I rebuilt mine. We'll see how the combination of two gaskets holds up long term.

By looks of the rig overall, I'd say no saltwater. But I suspected it was in water about 24" deep, possible mild flood or river crossing. Also sitting after I washed, without driving to dry didn't help.

Good Idea, I've considered adding a gasket also. Your a smart guy

 

[2001LC]

Wheel hub Cone Washers removal

These wheel hub flange cone washers were the most difficult I've ever removed. As it turned out they were glued in and as was the hub flange itself.

Whoever did this had the wheel bearing good and tight (which I like). I'm sure they glued in hub flange with best intentions, using FIPG by the looks of it. This should never be done! What a PITA.

I heat treated, then while hot cool rapidly with some PB penetrating oil. This helps draw in the PB or as rapidly contraction helping free up.

 

[2001LC]

I came back soon after heating & cooling with PB, hitting with brass dowel and 5lb sledge. Cone washers finally popped out. I spent hours on this PITA glued up job.


Next I had to get the hub flanges themselves off, which was just as much a PITA. I found someone glued on the hub flange with what was likely Toyota FIPG 102 or 103 by looks of stuff. The FIPG must have oozed into cone washer while they torqued down the hub flange. Once I knew what was going on (glue), I changed my approach removing the other hub flange, and removed it like an oil pan.

I've a thin knife I fashioned (90 degree bend) into a tool years ago just for pulling oil pan off my 01 transmission. It worked well for separating the hub flange from wheel hub in this rare case.

Tools I use to remove wheel hub, which includes brake caliper. I also check pre disassemble snap ring gap, to get and idea of what size snap ring I'll be needing during reassemble.

 

[2001LC]

Cleaning front wheel hub & bearings is something I spend a great deal of time on.

Your typical shop (Toyota/Lexus) does not clean this stuff, they just pack in new grease which pushes most old out. The grim that is left in bearings, they say grind into dust and then remaining minerals fills in fissures and pits on bearing surface. This is justification for shaving hours off the job IMHO!

I start with rough cleaning; scooping and wiping out as much old grease as I can, then I go after rust. In this case I did not need to do metal work to remove tooling (hammer) marks that I often find on hubs & knuckles.

After rough work I clean with a petroleum based solvent.

Then I cleaned that solvent muck off with a water based solvent which includes a rust inhibitor.

Than hose off with water.

Finial in cleaning processe is to dry as quickly as I can with compressed air.

 

[2001LC]

Packing Wheel hub & bearings with grease.

I used emery cloth to sand a crosshatch pattern in rotors & pads cleaning them up. But we decided afterwards to replace rotor & pads, so that was a waste of time.

All cleaned and ready for inspecting & packing.

Bagged until I'm ready to install on The Unicorn!

 

[2001LC]

Wheel hub install. Setting breakaway preload with spring scale.

Front rotor replacement, was decided to do, after Hubs & bearing were packed. So I'll come back to that later when I post up brakes.

Cavity inside oil seal of dust cover is coat with grease as a rust preventive, making sure weep hole at bottom remains clear/open.

 

[2001LC]

Hub flange install.

I've since found hub flange nuts where threads were worn-out and nut stretched.

 

[2001LC]

Snap ring of hub flange, setting the gap is so important.

 

[2001LC]

Brakes disc (rotors & drums).
I skipped showing new Brake discs (Rotors) installed earlier, just so I could group braking altogether. Also we decided to do after I had cleaned up old rotors and packed in the bearings and seal. So I'll start brake section with them.

Easiest way I know to break loose the 5 bolts holding disc on hub, is to use a wheel/tire to hold the wheel hub. I secured the wheel hub to the wheel with 3 lug nuts. I felt these lugs would keep hub from lifting out and protect wheel from being damaged by the studs. Then a 3/4 breaker bar made easy work it.

I had cleaned the inner hub earlier so all I needed was a little PB (penetrating) to aid in slipping off the disc.

Then I just drop on the new rotor.

Then I simply torqued on the five bolt, taking down bolts in stages and in a star pattern to 54ft-lbf. Then installed the wheel hub as seen above.

 

[2001LC]

Rear rotors also replaced.

Wire brush on rust stains and emery cloth on E. brake pads to clean up and prepare for new drums.

Yes I do grease hub just a bit, next to pull drums off will thank me!

Snuging down E. brake adjuster wheel then backing off 8 clicks to spec is also down whether new or old drums installed.

Seems I also find the rubber plug of E. brake adjuster missing.

 

[2001LC]

Brake calipers have all been rebuilt. Would be nice if Toyota included shims and retainer clips in the kit, and a little more grease.
Brake Caliper guru's

Also replaced all flexible brake line with stainless steel braided lines. This was a first for me and a learning experience. First thing I learned is Toyota is over torquing some of the flare nut of pipe to hose connection. It was so known by my parts guy he knew which side I was working, without me even saying. I had to re-flare one hard line pipe to add new flare nut, and use emery cloth to take anther down a bit for fitment to new female fitting. Brake pipe Flare nut stuck, Installing SS Braided Brake lines

This was a bit of a pain and had to change from some Amazon purchase SS brake lines, and run over to Slee and pick up theirs. Even now I'm not satisfied with SS brake lines in front.

The below picture is actually the Stoptech I could not get to stop leaking. I replaced these with Slee's rears SS brake lines, no leaks. The Slee's mount with banjo at union bolt straight up, and not in retaining horns as seen here.

 

[2001LC]

ABS to booster pump wire inspection & repair.

The brake job actually started with a new inspection I do of wire screws & nuts on bottom of ABS/master. After rebuilding a locals member 98LC ABS I found this issue of corrosion on thes wire screws & nuts. I suspected if this allowed to go unrepaired it will end up in a $4K master replacement. At minimum it with cause issues with booster pump. I'm finding this in about 20% of the 100 series I inspect.

To inspect I pull back boot, then take a look with a mirror and flashlight.

I left boot off and by time I pulled master they dried.

Wires go to booster pump and looked the same.

To keep from breaking plastic housing of ABS and pump, screws needed drilling out.

 

[2001LC]