Cutting paint with correction compound. Once paint as clean as I could get with soap, HP water, clay and chemicals I started cutting with compound. I play around with some compound and 6" foam pads I'd use to cut the TBK with it's etching in the clear coat. The Diamond is actually recommended for use with a rotor buffer, but I just used with my DA buffer. I like to start on roof in the morning while still cool in the shop. This stuff works best around 65 to 70 F. Also test on roof is not a bad idea to start out any job, out of sight. But moved back to what I use most often, which is the micro fiber system. Unfortunately I've only 5" disk in the microfiber system so it takes longer get around the body. Darn if I didn't have yet one more tool failure issue, with my relatively new to me Meguiar's DA buffer. Seems Meguiar's had an issue with bad electrical cord. At first I thought brushes had gone bad, which they included a replacement set in the box. But they were fine. So then I'm thinking it overheating due to long extension cord, but was same extension cord I've used with my PC DA buffer. Nope not that. Finally I found as I moved the cord it would come on and off. So I found and old cut-up extension cord I'd saved, and adapted wire directly to motor's switch. Sweet now I've a DA buffer with a 36' cord. No more extension cord to deal with...... Cutting before working on imperfection like rock chips is something I do. It helps see the chip and such better, but is more time consuming as I'll be going back over with DA cutting again after touch up paint. Here is two imperfection I'll not be doing anything about, as it's beyond touch up. They're on LH front fender. This one looks like and egg sat on paint. Seen this before. This one was a bad PDR done sometime by a PO. This kind of stuff would take body and paint shop work. It's beyond the scope of what I do.