Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (3 Viewers)

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A. I. exhaust air tubes, LH & RH install.

A portion of the main wire harness (MWH) plastic housing sits behind the LH side air tube, so doing after MWH is a must.

These are the exhaust air tube found on the VVT engine. Some block off as parts of shutting done the Air Induction (A.I.) pump smoke system, I don't. I prefer keeping with Factory design.

I clean up mating surfaces in prep for new gaskets.
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Then just install.
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Torque to 7ft-lbf.
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Oil dipstick guide tube install with new O-ring.

So I've been finding these O-ring weeping oil of side of engine, more so on 06 up (IDK on 03-05) for some reason:hmm:. Even on the 200 series.
On the King (01 w/170K) and other 98-02 I've not seen them weep, or not as much:hmm:
IDK on 03-05 as I've not looked.

Easy fix to stop leak. I'm tiring something a little different to see if slows or stops leak for longer. But they'll all weep someday

Lubricate (For easy installation) new O-ring with AT-205 re-seal, to see if adding the extra plasticizer will help slow this weep.
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Torque 11ft-lbf
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It takes about 200K miles to get to this point.
Stock photo of 06 w/200K miles:
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Getting to with engine in the bay, is near as easy.
Remembering to clean area really good before pulling out guide tube is a must.
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NEW OEM Engine Insulator (AKA Mounts) installed.

"Eat your heart out", this is so easy with engine on a stand. But I will be leaving the 17mm nut loose. This way the mount can pivot allowing for easier alignment of the two frame mounting bolts during engine install. I'll then come through fender well and torque down the nut. Torque will be the "feels really tight method" unless I find a spec for it.
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Attaching AC compressor is one of the last things I'm doing to engine before installing into bay.

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Three bolts Torque to 36ft-lbf.
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POR-15 painting a few small spot in engine bay.

There is a number of component I worked on in engine bay, while engine out. I'll just point to a little painting for now. I'll come back to other components as I address those one by one, so's not to jump around as much as I actually did.

I found engine bay very clean, with only a few spots of minor surface rust.

Engine mount front tips.
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A small spot on LH frame above engine mount.
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Small spot under RH steering rack mount.
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Sanded to prep a rough surface which promoted adhesion. Cleaned w/POR-15 Degreaser & Metal Prep. POR: recommends just; descaling rust and cleaning. POR-15 incapsulats. It's a tuff skin.
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@jerryb asked same? in PM, you must be doing a conversation.

IDK! But did find some old pictures that may give what you guys are looking for?
Correct. My bad, I wasn't aware he was in contact with you already. That being said, your picture definitely helped because it has the same airbag light as mine. That means there's hope for my nav-delete setup. Thanks for the help.
 
And I thought my ‘06 was a unicorn when I bought it with 22k a couple of years back, sure would enjoy some pics of the harness side plugs on the back of that AC controller. Already have the part numbers for it, just afraid to spend that kind of money w/o knowing if I can wire it in :frown: Great tech thread, have only replaced the stupid ABS pump on the master on on mine ... lots of good future info!

:cheers:

Tucker
 
Were you able to torque that nut with a crowsfoot or something else?
@abuck99 I couldn't find a torque spec for this, let me know if you do?

Actually I've not yet installed, as was waiting for second engine mount insulator to arrive. I'll leave the 17mm nut loose, so mount can pivot. This should allow for just enough movement to make aligning the frame mounting bolts easy. Then I'll come back and tighten the engine mount insulator nut through fender well.

But really doing on the rig is a different ball game. They steering, frame and body will all be in the way. A boxed crowsfoot or extended crowsfoot (Box end Torque Adapter) may work well with a torque wrench. I found that with the standard Crowsfoot, I could only make minimum turn, then couldn't get back on as crowsfoot hit side of mount.
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17MM Torque adapter 12 point would give greater movement and allow for torque wrench. But still I've no torque spec.
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Correct. My bad, I wasn't aware he was in contact with you already. That being said, your picture definitely helped because it has the same airbag light as mine. That means there's hope for my nav-delete setup. Thanks for the help.
No problem, I appreciate question as it show someone finds useful if nothing else. But may be good idea to hold question back until I get to the area or have covered and area like interior first. Just so this thread flows better as a reference tool for others that may use in future.;)

And I thought my ‘06 was a unicorn when I bought it with 22k a couple of years back, sure would enjoy some pics of the harness side plugs on the back of that AC controller. Already have the part numbers for it, just afraid to spend that kind of money w/o knowing if I can wire it in :frown: Great tech thread, have only replaced the stupid ABS pump on the master on on mine ... lots of good future info!

:cheers:

Tucker
Not sure what harness side plugs on "back" of that AC controller? Give me a picture and or PN # and I'll see what I can get for you!

I'm interested in all used master brake assembly parts. I tear them down looking for cause of failure. I'd be interested in yours, PM me if available?
 
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Unfortunately the ABS pump parts are gone, was several years ago:( On the unicorn AC controller, this is a pic of the back of that unit. I’d like to see closeup pics of each of the four male plugs on the vehicle side harness. Looking to either confirm moving directly from the TFT unit, or the wire colors for moving individually to a new plug. No hurry on this since you’re elbow deep, but think a lot of folks could use this info ;)

Tucker

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Unfortunately the ABS pump parts are gone, was several years ago:( On the unicorn AC controller, this is a pic of the back of that unit. I’d like to see closeup pics of each of the four male plugs on the vehicle side harness. Looking to either confirm moving directly from the TFT unit, or the wire colors for moving individually to a new plug. No hurry on this since you’re elbow deep, but think a lot of folks could use this info ;)

Tucker

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No problem, I appreciate question as it show someone finds useful if nothing else. But may be good idea to hold question back until I get to the area or have covered and area like interior first, I'm still working up front in engine bay. Just so this thread flows better as a reference tool for others that may use in future.;)

I do think @jerryb 2006 non nav info. Part numbers. has covered what you're looking for IINM. If not, ask again when we're in the interior of the Unicorn. He also has other threads on converstion I beleive.
 
Correct. My bad, I wasn't aware he was in contact with you already. That being said, your picture definitely helped because it has the same airbag light as mine. That means there's hope for my nav-delete setup. Thanks for the help.

And I thought my ‘06 was a unicorn when I bought it with 22k a couple of years back, sure would enjoy some pics of the harness side plugs on the back of that AC controller. Already have the part numbers for it, just afraid to spend that kind of money w/o knowing if I can wire it in :frown: Great tech thread, have only replaced the stupid ABS pump on the master on on mine ... lots of good future info!

:cheers:

Tucker

I do have pictures of all the plugs, pre and post Jan2006. Send me a message for info. Or post in the LX or the LC thread.
 
What are you going to ask for this baby?
Hey SWUtah, nice to see you visit the 100 section. Haven't seen much of you sinces your 05 got clipped in a parking lot.

I'm not asking anything pre se, as The Unicorn pre-sold. It was going to be my DD, but money talks ...... as they say. I don't put these rigs up for sale or discusses prices, especially not in the Tech forum.;)
 
Hey SWUtah, nice to see you visit the 100 section. Haven't seen much of you sinces your 05 got clipped in a parking lot.

I'm not asking anything pre se, as The Unicorn pre-sold. It was going to be my DD, but money talks ...... as they say. I don't put these rigs up for sale or discusses prices, especially not in the Tech forum.;)

Great work. You have skills. Wife moved me to Florida so as part of the deal I got a 2015 LX570 with 17k miles.
 
Back to job at hand, installing the engine!

Cleaned up torque converter pilot shaft and crankshaft end then greased, so they slip into each other easily.
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Notice my thread cleaner tool in the bolt hole. Last thing I wanted was bolts difficult to thread during install, so made sure to cleaned all the threads.
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Seated the torque converter in the transmission. It's kind of tricky to get seated all the way in, as it seems to stop at three different points before fully seated. It needs to be far enough back that pilot shaft is flush with bell housing.
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Floor jack under transmission was helpful in getting alignment of engine to bellhousing, by starting with transmission up as high as possible.

I did not want to risk damaging the new exhaust pipe flange gaskets, so I'll put those on after engine is installed.
 
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Finally, months after receiving The Unicorn the replacement engine is going in.

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Lowering very slowing and inch or two at a time. I'd stop and look around all side for obstruction. Took extra care with AC aluminum pipe on RH side.
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First attempt I had to pull back out, as I couldn't get the last two inch in. Either I didn't seat torque converter all the way in or pulled out during my josling around. So I pulled engine finding torque convert held to engine, pulling out transmission. I carefully installed it back into transmission and made darn sure it seated all the way.
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Dropping in alone was difficult to algin. I found this piece of wood helpful to keep front up.
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I moved from side to side and crawl underneath, so many times I lost count. Wore me out! This is a four person job. One on host control, one underneath and one on each side, would have saved hours.
 
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Installing bell housing bolts were no big deal, getting them torqued was a pain. I used all my extensions and universal, both 3/8" and 1/2". The only one I could not torque was the top LH. Had to use all my 3/8" extension coming out near rear of transmission. Seems I was getting flex in my setup so torque wouldn't hit 57ft-lbf. So I just beared down on it with just a 3/8" breaker bar attached to 17mm a socket. The lower 14mm bolts were "cake" to torque to 27ft-lbf.

The engine mounts to frame front bolts took a good amount of time. Mostly, that was my fault for not cleaning threads after painting around them with POR-15. It seems as if I must have gotten a little paint in the threads. Also alignment of mount is a bit tricky, to install the front bolt on each side, as I had hoist off. I ended up re attaching hoist to raise engine a 1/4" while aligning the second engine mount (DS). The rear nut and bolt (nut on top) was easy and easy to get torque wrench on with 12" extension from below. Not having the front drive shaft in, did give me a little extra working room for my arms. Too have had the front differential out, would have, made even easier to work on engine mounts, but not a big deal either way.

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As noted earlier; I did not tighten down the new engine mount insulator nut while engine on stand. This allowed me to align the engine mount insulator to frame bolts without to much difficulty. I then remove shielding from fender well, reached through to tighten the insulator nut, using a second box end wrench for leverage.

Had I removed the AHC pipe bracket and wire I could have gained more travel room for my wrech from side to side. But using my ratchet box end wrench, which was just the right length, AHC stuff wasn't much of and issue.
 
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I have really enjoyed following your build threads. Your attention to detail is incredible! Thank you for taking the time to help out others. I would love to get on the list, as a potential buyer, for one of your future projects.
 

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