Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

I was pleasantly surprised Toyota sell the screws & nuts.

Wires look good.

Coated during all phases to stop return of corrosion. Infact I packed boot with dielectric grease

Punched small hole in boots to allow drainage and air drying.

 

[2001LC]

All gearboxes flushed with Mobil 1 75W-90 full synthetic.

Two key to changing gear lube in Rear & Front differential and transfer case, is: After topping let rest for 15 minutes (30 on colder days) then top again until lube flows out a second time. Second key is use new gaskets (washers) and torque to spec.

Fluid of rear diff looked so good I felt guilty for dumping it. I do at 35K as PM. Magnet was clean even before wiping (as seen here).

Front Differential look good but ready for change. I do at 25K as PM.

Transfer case is one that needs changing the most. I do as PM at 25K with front.

 

[2001LC]

Fuel filter installed.

Getting ready to fire up engine for first time.

We keep our green retainer clip on the out flow side of fuel filter, and white fuel line to bracket retainer clip.

 

[2001LC]

Battery Post cleaned & greased.

Almost ready to crank this puppy over.

Finished running battery wires and downing a little tidying up.

I always neutralizes any battery acid that may be in area before rinsing with water.

Plastic tray factory gives helps isolate battery and catch acid between cleanings.

factory tape needed a little redue.

I like to clean and grease battery post once every year, in the fall after fuel blend changes at gas station.
While battery disconnected for 30 minutes to reset ECU; I clean MAF sensor, throttle body and inspect vacuum lines.

 

[flintknapper]

Good Job! You are very thorough in your work.

 

[2001LC]

Good Job! You are very thorough in your work.

Thanks for saying that! As you know, the last week has been kind-of-trying with parts and tool issues, just stuff to be expected sooner or later. I suppose I'll look back and think it was nice the trying stuff was all bunched together.

I've tried to illustrate with pictures and overview of the work. I hope this pictures and the processes will be helpful to all. I know sometimes I just need to see a picture of how something is laid out or bolted, wire or a clip or etc... So my hope is others will find this thread useful as I do.

I don't know if anyone really cares, but too aid those who do, I've created and index in OP. I'll add to procedures over time as question come from those in need of a little help or what have you. This will be a thread I'll point many to over the years for info, along with the first link in my signture.

More to come...................

 

[68W65D]

Best thread ever.

 

[Njck22]

How hard was it getting the engine wiring harness in place? Im assuming there isnt that much slack and with all those clips I would guess it would be difficult to get everything lined up.

 

[2001LC]

Best thread ever.

Well IDK, but thank you so much.

How hard was it getting the engine wiring harness in place? Im assuming there isnt that much slack and with all those clips I would guess it would be difficult to get everything lined up.

The main ECU harness is actually not bad at all. If you follow the sequence I laid out to get off/on. We must remove the AI exhaust tube on driver side which blocks main ECU harness in. Also threading crank sensor wire housing block & that of oil sending unit behind AC compressor takes extra work. Then most everything falls in place. Toyota is really good about making wire housing connection so they only fit/plug-in where the belong. The short lengths work to our advantage too drop-in just at right location.

On the VVT engine, the VVt cam sensor on inside center of each head next to intake, are bit tricky to get wire house block to release, but no big deal.

I had some brittle wire housings blocks that I replaced, which Toyota sell all of them that I've ever needed. But since I had two extra main ECU harnesses (GX470 & 4runner), I just pulled from them what I needed. Easier once you have the new OEM wire housing block(s) from Toyota, as it becomes apparent how to disassemble and assemble the puzzle within them when you do!

The main battery harness which isn't much at all, is the fun one. You must remove starter, we all know how much fun that is.

 

[2001LC]

@flintknapper I picked up Nylog from a HVAC wholesaler today, the stuff you recommended.

It state: "Gasket Thread Sealant and Assembly Lube"

So it's safe for O-ring anywhere in AC system including compressor, and used inplace of or with the Denso PAG oil on O-rings correct. I called company to confirm, they said yes!

I'd also like to use in engine, on rubber O-ring where heat and motor oil will be present. Like oil filter bracket and oil cooler O-rings. I called company to confirm, they said yes it will work fine

Thanks my friend.

 

[68W65D]

Wait a second... you are selling this vehicle?
I always assumed you would be keeping your unicorn.

 

[2001LC]

I had plan too,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, It my dream Cruiser!

 

[2001LC]

Can we get a video of the first start up??

I did get a video of first engine startup. Unfortunately the video is unusable. So I'll get a video next time I fire it up.

Last two weeks work really slowed due to tool and part issues. But I did fire up the engine.

Once fuel pump pushed fuel through new filter and into fuel injectors on second auto crank attempt, it fired right up.
It sounded very good, really the smooths 4.7L I've ever heard.

But, I had parts, tools & leak issues that set me back two weeks:

First issue was with the factory over torqued of flare nut of rear upper brake line, then Stoptech SS brake lines leaking.

Then not wanted to run engine without AC system charged, I worked on AC first. FSM has what we believe a misprint about not running engine with AC "on or OFF". So I worked on AC before starting first time. But ran into three issue on my first time charging AC; New vacuum pump defective, New AC manifold defective (two in a row), incorrect O-ring at AC suction line to compressor supplied by Toyota. O-ring issue was compounded by Toyota miss-labeling or not labeling in their parts diagram, for this one O-ring.

I went ahead and started engine without AC system charged, while I waited on new AC O-ring and replacement AC vacuum pump & manifold tools. I just made sure AC turned off, just in case pressure switch of AC allowed engagement (it shouldn't without enough refrigerant, pressurizing)

Once I fired it up, I found two issues "leaks".

One was coolant leak at lower radiator outlet to hose. This was the one I was concerned with. So I pulled the bad part (Spector Radiator) and shipped back. Waiting on a new Denso Radiator now. Edited: Denso from Amazon was out of stock. So picked up a CSF locally, which is same Toyota Dealership shop is using on customer car.

Other was and oil leak. After a run of bad parts and tools, this was frustrating. I can't say whether this was part's issues or my bad. Leak was at oil filter bracket to oil pump seal. A figure 8 O-ring is used here. I had noticed during engine assemble, the O-ring seemed a bit loose in it's groove and it came in a non standard plastic bag (not a Toyota package). It (o-ring) possibly sat open to the air in a parts bin for years, shrinking, or it's possible I messed up during assemble, IDK.

Working out bugs is one thing, but this stuff all in one week, mostly bad tools or bad parts.
Well I had TO WALK AWAY FOR A DAY. All in all this stuff set me back two weeks.


Oil filter bracket resealing, we've two oil seal here:

One is between oil filter bracket and oil pump, a figura 8 rubber O-ring. This one was leaking.
Engine off

Engine running:

Used the Nylor @flintknapper turned me onto, after reading label and speaking with company. I was then comfortable using Nylog (sticky) to hold O-ring in place during assembly.

The second is between oil cooler and bracket, large rubber O-ring. Was not leaking but replaced again anyway.

Even though both these O-rings were just installed and only brought engine to operating temp twice for a few minutes, I replaced them both again.

I went ahead and put on new oil filter now.

 

[2001LC]

After drain coolant from Radiator and LH side of block. I removed oil filter, oil cooler & hoses and oil filter bracket. Most bolts are accessible from between crossmember and steering rack arm boots.

Oil bracket off

I can't get a view of O-ring between oil filter bracket & oil pump during install to see if still in groove. This is why I used Nylog to hold in place. Wheel bearing grease or assemble oil can also be used here to hold O-ring in place.

I torque the two bolts and one nut of bracket to 13ft-lbf. Then the one long 14mm bolt holding AC compressor retainer placement bracket to 36ft-lbf.

The short bolt holding the two pieces of AC placement bracket together was not removed. It's take 45ft-lbf torque IIRC

Largar O-ring for oil cooler to oil filter bracket can be seen during install, so no "sticky" holder like Nylog was used.

Large oil cooler O-ring was inspected after I slipped on both coolant hoses, before bolting in oil cooler.

I torque the oil cooler bolt to 54ft-lbf.

Placed coolant hoses clamps back in same place they were in, once I had everything torque in.

 

[2001LC]

AC oiling, vacuum testing & charging.

This has really been going slow. As mentioned above I had tool and parts issue, really testing me. I've work through the issues and will be charging AC now. All work on AC is here So now I need to oil and charge the AC system?

I read a 41 f temp, taken inside vent with my infrared gun. I'm happy!

 

[2001LC]

With Radiator and oil leaks sorted I flushed AHC fluid. Old Hydraulic fluid that came out looking like new. I suppose it's best I flushed all fluids, but feel so wasteful tossing out such good fluids as I have on this rig.

I've had AHC in H for 6 months as it sat in the shop waiting on winter and work to be completed to the point I could run engine to raise and lower AHC. I love being able to raise and lower AHC to work under or on top side, so sweet.

I basically use @PADDO technique except I started flush in H. This leaves less in reservoir to suck out, and I had in H to start with. Starting with accumulator then front LH globe, rear LH globe. I came back after filling reservoir and pulled a little from RH side as well.

Hydraulic fluid came out looking like new.

I as added BG EPR, filled with gas and add a can of 44K to the gas tank, and drove about 30 minutes before flushing the oil I had just put in. Oil came out looking like it went in very clean. This is one clean engine internally, even before flush.

I then refilled with M1 and a can of BG MOA the liquid gold.

Fired up the The Unicorn

 

[abuck99]

How'd the CSF radiator look upon arrival: as good of packaging as they claim in their marketing material ( drop tested from 10ft)? Did the inlet and outlets measure to factory spec? Are you satisfied with CSF as a quality replacement?

 

[2001LC]

How'd the CSF radiator look upon arrival: as good of packaging as they claim in their marketing material ( drop tested from 10ft)? Did the inlet and outlets measure to factory spec? Are you satisfied with CSF as a quality replacement?

Packaging was good. Rad was firmly held in box, with styrofoam all good and in place. But keep in mind it was picked up from Advance Auto, not an online order delivery.

It measured the same as the Spectra. Small on all measurements compared with the Factory's that came out of my rig.

The CSF differences as compared to the Spectra:
1) Casting marks at sides of lower CSF's outlet, as opposed to top and bottom of Spectra.
2) Cast marks less pronounce on CSF and smoothed out nicely without the V (valley) I found on the Spectra.
3) Felt heavier out of the box. Not as heavy as OEM, but heavier than the Spectra.
4) Took ~1/3 qt more to fill.

I did use a new OEM lower hose with the CSF so not a fair comparison. But without V seen in casting marks, I was more comfortable with the CSF than the Spectra. It is also what local Toyota Dealership is using in the shop on customer cars currently. Seems even the Dealerships aren't using OEM.

 

[2001LC]

So I took The Unicorn out on a 100 miles test drive, up to Devils Head at top of Rampart Range in foothills south of Denver.

It drove and handled great, really nice, no complaints.

Driving on long winding blacktop HWY and dirt roads up hills than down, it hugged the road. I don't think I've yet mention it, but I did rebuild the Stabilizer system with new links & bushing and spacers atop coil springs. So this puppy had ZERO sway in the turns, like new.

ACH worked great, but it may be a little high (stance). I'll be running test and taking measurements on AHC after I've all seats back in, as I only have fronts currently.

The difference from poly bushing I've used in past projects, compared to these OE rubber steering rack bushing was apparent. Steering was soft but had no side to side play while trucking down the HWY. Nor did it have the positive (hard feel) road feel transferred to hands on steering wheel like with poly's.

The totally rebuilt brakes system worked fanstice. They slowed the rig with just a very very lite touch of the peddle. The difference in brake pedal feel was really apparent. They had no mushy feel whatsoever. It took some getting use to the very lite peddle needed to slow. Touch the peddle and you know it, brake's are right there. I'm running on the lite stock tires with ~8mm of tread left on them and stock wheels. I could really see where these ALL SS brake lines would be a great benefit with the heavier KO2 tires. Liked the one we used and liked so much on the Redbaron & TBK. The SS brake lines are almost to much for the stock tire set up..

On the steepest downhill it held 22 MPH in 1st gear (transfer case in H, CDL OFF). Shifting was very smooth, almost to smooth if that's possible. So I'll be revisiting the transmission fluid level check, just to make sure I'm spot on.

Engine ran perfect no complanis. On way back home, after about one hour on hills and turns with AC blowing full most all the time and OAT 88 F. I than ran at ~4,800 RPM trucking down the HWY in 3rd for 5 minutes. I like to do this to blow out combustion chamber and really heat exhaust cooking off CATS. I then let cool by driving in D at normal RPM. Then at my first stop, I popped the hood and engine sounded even better than in video above, smooth!!!

With all the dust from dirt roads I'll be washing today. But first I'll get under to look for leaks. If any, the dust should aid in spotting.

 

[2001LC]

Looked dry under the rig. I did see what may be some of the Nylog I used on oil filter bracket. I re-cleaned with degreaser and will spot check after each time I run engine. All brake connections dry. No coolant leaks. No gear lube leaks. Both weep holes dry. Both valve covers dry.

Front view of oil bracket. Has oily looking spot, looks stationary so I suspect it's the Nyloc I used to hold seal (fig 8 O-ring) in place.

Rear view of oil bracket, it is dry.

Oil bracket, after cleaning with a degreaser and driven for 5 minutes. Looks dry, but I'll keep checking.