Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

[2001LC]

Were pretty much all the sensors different between the gx470 and LC? Did you order new ones or swap over from the burnt up engine?

Good question. The crank, cam, VVt cams, and knocks sensors are the same. I used the ones that came with the replacement engine, as no need to swap and had lowest mileage.

Next was engine mount RH side and transmission cooler line hangers. Again thread condition kit cam in handy.

I Would have installed exhaust gasket and manifolds next. But seeing some very minor pitting I on matting surface I delayed install until I gather some opinion from the board and local mechanics I confer with.

Exhaust manifold gaskets and pitting on surface help
It delayed me but in the end I was comfortable, I'd nothing to be concerned with.

 

[2001LC]

I'll show exhaust manifold install next, although I actually ended up doing later. These also needed to be swap.

Happy to report no warpage found.

 

[2001LC]

Cleaning cleaning cleaning always cleaning.

I use this degrease, just because it's what I've on hand.

I followed torque (32ft-lbf) sequence. I also torqued down in steps.

Heatshield torqued to 66in-lbf.

 

[2001LC]

History at Lexus indicated timing belt and water pump R&R 600 miles (4 months) ago, but did not R&R pulleys or tensioner. I called Toyota Dealer in WI that did the job. Service manager said "we never replace those parts, Toyotas' last forever" WOW, I said we feel keep the old belt but change those pulleys at minimum, as bearings fail and take out belt. This is a VVt, which by all accounts is a true interference engine. So I replaced all three.
Belt was indeed new OEM Toyota.

Made in USA indicates replacement.

The compression gauge is just to confirm when timing marks line up, that I'm at TDC #1 compression stock. It moves just a little as I come up on compression stroke.

Once set to TDC I back off 45% to release tension of cam from valve springs. It will still jump clockwise (as we face it) a bit, but this is where FSM recommends to set
I marked timing belt just incase it jumped on me, it did.

Hard to see but crank sprocket timing mark is now at top (45 degrees BTDC)

 

[2001LC]

Old tensioner looked ok, but a hard to say if little oily. If leaking they should be replaced.

Pictures make it look so easy and fast, don't they!
Not shown is that I used FIPG 103 on threads on tensioner pulley bolt, during assembly.

Of course now I'll be extra ancy on startup. I always am anytime I've a belt off.

Fan bracket was ok, but one of those "while your in there".

 

[Njck22]

On that rusted pulley, did it spin freely or was it rough? Seems like not replacing those parts is a perfect set-up for a seized pulley and certain belt damage from friction..

 

[2001LC]

On that rusted pulley, did it spin freely or was it rough? Seems like not replacing those parts is a perfect set-up for a seized pulley and certain belt damage from friction..

It was rough sounding while spinning, would not have made it 20K miles IMO. Idler was fine, but changed just the same. @abuck99 just did his belt job, belt was fine, but pulley was ready to fail. This is often the case.

Finished up the Timing belt area with oil sending unit (needed to be swapped), drive belt tensioner (replace pulley bearing later), new OEM idler pulley/bearing, water pipe and hoses (needed to be swapped). Also R&R the thermostat with new OEM.
Lexol, according to their web page has a plasticiser so it's great for condition rubber and plastic.

Oil sending unit goes on with a thread sealer, I use 102 FIPG.

Torque the three nuts stepping down to 14ft-lbf

Some, may notice this is pre late 05 thermostat Toyota PN#. The newer PN # is twice the price for the same thing. Difference from what we can tell, manufacture process removed the lead in new environment push.

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

Do you notice much difference between the vvti motor compared to the standard 4.7 v8 motor ?.The 4.7 v8 come in a vvti right in the late models.

 

[jerryb]

Mr Paul, if someone were to use the block off plates from the SAI bypass up on the valves themselves. Could you eliminate the two aluminum down tubes to the manifold and then use the cheaper exhaust manifold from the PRE 2005
4.7? I thought maybe you have both versions of them sitting around and you'd be the one to ask. ALso couldn't you use any other header designed for the 4.7 pre SAI?

 

[2001LC]

Good questions guy's!

Do you notice much difference between the vvti motor compared to the standard 4.7 v8 motor ?.The 4.7 v8 come in a vvti right in the late models.

VVTi came out may 2005. So is actually in some of the last built 2005 through 2007 in USA. I saw one of these 2005 with VVt engine for sale in "mud" out of CA this year. People thought seller price was nuts, but they failed to realize what it was IMHO!

Yes I do notice a difference in power, they have a sports car feel. They have better acceleration and get better MPG on HWY. They go over the high mountain passes with easy here in the rockies. Not only do the cams change timing by rotating (advance) but intake manifold has set of 8 butterflies at top. These shorten length air travel once out of low end torque need for better (long air travel) low end torque.

These first two picture are from History of 2UZ-fe and happens to be from a page on Tundra, which is same engine only built in USA.

Mr Paul, if someone were to use the block off plates from the SAI bypass up on the valves themselves. Could you eliminate the two aluminum down tubes to the manifold and then use the cheaper exhaust manifold from the PRE 2005
4.7? I thought maybe you have both versions of them sitting around and you'd be the one to ask. ALso couldn't you use any other header designed for the 4.7 pre SAI?

I don't do block offs for two reasons. 1) it's circumvents USA EPA laws. 2) It's not a bad idea to pull intake manifold now and then to replace gaskets. Reason is; these VVt tend develop leaks at intake to head gasket. Additionally the VVt doesn't get that nasty gas smell on cold start up like the non VVT.

That's said I do not think you can use any other exhaust manifold. You could eliminate the downpipes (1730450010 TUBE SUB-ASSY, AIR, RH & LH) Notice in pictures heads have a small exhaust port just above the main ports. So one would need a way to block these. These is what the block off plates do at end of exhaust manifold if I understand the kit. But I've never looked at the kit really. I stick with factory design all I can. This pictures is the overheated engine.

One guston that may come up is the short block of the VVT the same as the non VVt 2UZ. No it is not. They change the piston IIRC, bearing metal for EPA and added oil jet to underside of piston tapping into main oil passage.
One of the question I have is the Japanese built 100 series engine using leaded or the newer lead free bearings. Additionally do we have difference in connecting rods metal. Are there differences in tolerances. Bottomline I avoided USA made engines in my hunt, as they have issues we don't in some not all short blocks. (short block: block, crank & bearing, rods and pistons.)

 

[2001LC]

Next was getting battery wire harness (100 series specific), starter & A.I. (all the same) installed.

Remove these hose(s) and they are no longer any good once aged, so I just cut. I could have pulled as one complet unit with rear water by-pass I suppose saving one hose, but didn't.

Clean up valley just because I could, oiled too.

Again my thread condition kit came in handy as we've more ground wires attached to block. So hole needed cleaning up.

 

[danielharro]

love it!

 

[2001LC]

I replace a few wire housing & hose getting at starter to install wire harness (needed to swap): main hose from water bypass to A.I. switch, water bypass pipe to water pump O-ring and water bypass rear gaskets.

By looking at first two picture you can see how starter wire(s) are released. This is hard to see when leaning over fender to do a starter job. I also found three different ways to pull starter. Easiest is to pull rear water by-pass and A.I. stuff as one unit then starter.

Water by-pass gaskets PN # 16341-50020 GASKET (WATER BY-PASS JOINT, REAR & front (2 each))

I use Dawn dish soapy water to lubricate O-ring for easy install into water pump, just as FSM recommends. Interesting the mechanic in WI Toyota Dealership used some sort of grease (presumably coolant and O ring safe) here and on larger water inlet to pump O-ring. In a rust belt state, this would make removal easier years from now of the water inlet. I like that, not like some of the idiots that use FIPG as a lube (I hate that). Those using FIPG on seals (bad) are likely using the 102 or 103 FIPG that is for oil not coolant. When only Toyota FIPG 1282B should ever be used on coolant application, but even that should not be used on O-rings.

 

[2001LC]

love it!

Glade you love it!

Wait until you see what's all to come

 

[2001LC]

Fuel injector rebuilding, cleaning & testing.

With fuel injectors back from Chuck at FIS. They do IMHO the best job in the industry, you can tell Chuck Paul said so . They do testing before and after rebuilding at different temperatures and a leak down test. It's usually a one week turn around with me dropping off and picking up, so no mail delay.
Stock photos:

Back in my hands one week later. FIS recommends keeping in bag and installing within 30 days. They are oiled, but are so clean they will start rust if stored much longer. I keep them in transmission fluid if stored.

FSM shows grommet at top of fuel injector, into fuel rail. This is a miss print in FSM for the VVt engines.

I ran across this before and triple checked with my Toyota parts guy whos' been right 99.9% of time in last 14 years. In this online parts PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World using my VIN #. Also in the lastest TIS seen below.

 

[2001LC]

Intake install:

I clean inside intake best I could, swabbing with a lint free microfiber rag hook to a coat hanger wire, soaking with cleaners. I used this BG TB cleaner just because it's what I had on hand, and it works so well on throttle body.

Also cleaned gasket seat areas.

Fuel injector ports were cleaned spotless ready for new insulator seals.

 

[2001LC]

I vacuuming out my lint free towels stuffed in ports to keep out dirt & dust.

New intake to head gasket installed. These are not a bad idea to replace on the VVT every 90K 7 year or so IMHO. Just watch for leak (oil climbing plastic plums of intake manifold).
Interesting this VVt engine had a good tight intake manifold seal at gasket at 98K miles.

Intake is just a little easier to install with fuel rails & TB off. But on or off it's no big deal. Just torque to 13ft-lbf using a step down.

Throttle body installed with new gasket after cleaning, torqued to 66IN -lbf. (that is INCH not foot)

Installing throttle body on beach adds weighs, so installing after intake manifold on engine first makes lifting/placing easier. Either way no big deal.

 

[2001LC]

Installing injectors in manifold.

Again doing this after intake manifold is mounted in engine makes intake install easier/lighter, but doing on bench if fine. Torque fuel rail union bolts is best done while intake mounted, as it holds in place.

Clean clean clean all the time cleaning

FSM states to twist back and forth using gasoline as lubricant to while installing fuel injectors with new O-ring into fuel rails. (see FSM pic above).

FIS actually supplies us new o-rings, greased a ready to be installed. We just need the insulators.

Place insulator in ports.

Then the fuel rails assembly. Torque two rail retaining nuts to 15ft-lbf on ea side. Note FSM states temporary place on nuts, having us torque union bolts first. Either way works. I just prefer setting rails with injectors in place and torque first.

Fuel rail can be removed without pulling fuel rail connecting crossover pipe. But I just pull pipe, clean and replace washers/gaskets and torque to 29ft-lbf.

 

[2001LC]

Union bolts use two gasket/washer each side of pipe and at each end seen here. (Total of 4)

Fuel pressure regulator (FPR):

Fuel pressure regulators can go bad but still pass FSM inspection procedure. They get rust on needle, so i'm told, which makes it reacts differently depending on temperature. This causes MPG to vary. It said they should be changed around 150K miles or 12 to 15 years.
They come with O-ring. Make sure to check that 4" fuel rubber hose, "pricey" OEM hose.

I lube o-ring with gasoline, twisting back & forth while pressing in place, then torqued to 66in-lbf (inch). Note I had return pipe lose so hose was easy to fit on. If pipe not left lose I put on hose before pressing and twisting in FPR.

Then I go ahead and attach fuel return pipe torque the three nuts to 66in-lbf.

I go ahead and install vacuum switches at this point torque to 66in-lbf.

 

[DirtDawg]

The amount of information you are providing will not only be super useful on mud, but the whole internet! I have yet to see as detailed of a breakdown anywhere else.

Thanks for doing what you do!