Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

[2001LC]

Wobbling mirror fix.

While playing with radio I noticed the mirror wobbling. So I tighten it up. I often see people tightening the large screw seen from bottom. But usually it's the inner small screws that need tightening. It's very import to use the right size screwdriver for each size, as those little ones get damaged easy.

 

[2001LC]

B1153 DTC. I had one last DTC to deal with; "seat position sensor assembly" wire repair.

The airbag SRS dash light would not go off. I checked DTC's and found a B1153. In looking at my original long list of DTC this one was there. But was it there because some other issue, or was it the switch's wire all along, IDK. But for some reason the red wire was broken away from switch housing that plugs into seat position sensor (driver side outer switch). In searching mud I see others have had this issue as well, and mostly this red wire. The wires have very little slack and will move a little each time one sit in the driver seat. I suppose it just wire loosen over time and eventional breaks away from terminal. My Toyota Dealer keeps many terminal with pigtail on hand, the housing is special order. I decide to see if soldier would do the trick, it did. It may have been better to just replace both wire terminals adding some length, but only time will tell. So if air bag LIGHT COMES BACK ON, this is first place to look.

Like all wire housing I've come across, a plug must be pulled from center. This releases lock of wire terminals from within. The trick is then seeing how it's locked. In this case there is a small plastic catch half way in, that I used a needle to hold out as I pushed terminal through (out the back side).

After soldering, I plugged housing it back into Seat Position Sensor.

Each time we sit in the driver seat, the cushion springs push down. This releases tension on the wires at first. If seat spring pushed down further by sitting on side of seat or more weight added, it may take up slack again pulling on wire. In any case each time we sit the wire moves. I call this a design issues.

Note: When removing seat wires, disconnect battery 90 seconds before hand. After i fix wire and installed seat, I zero calibrate the front seats in tech stream.

 

[2001LC]

No more DTC..... hurray.

Oh but I do see I'll one tire pressure sensor not reading, which I tracked to RF tire. I'll have tire shop scan this to see if battery is dying or dead. I'm not getting a dash light so may be intermittent or just not registered. IDK, as I don't normally deal with these. I just look/inpest my tires, just as OM instructs.

 

[2001LC]

LH rear door interior courtesy light lens replaced.

81311-33010 Lens, Courtesy Lamp LR
81231-33010 Lens, Courtesy Lamp RR
Front doors probably the same, IDC.

 

[2001LC]

AHC check up:

AHC reservoir is indicating about 12 hash marks from H to L.

Checked AHC pressures, while techstream hooked up and running. They looked great with:
Front Pressure Sensor at 6.8 and rear at 5.9 Mpa-g.

I'm sure the rear coil spring spacer I installed helped to rear, and will add to life of rear globes. But I've only 1/3 tank of gas, so I'll come back and check again then adjust heights (if needed) after topping tank.

I rechecked with full tank of gas:

Measurement at wheel wells held at:
LF 19"
RF 19 5/16"
rears 20"

 

[2001LC]

Coil spring spacer installed.
As noted in test drive post, I actually did this some time ago. While doing the rear bushing I installed two OME coil spring spacers totaling 15mm (10 & 5mm spacer) on each side.

Start by releasing rear links and lower end of shocks.

Greasing make assembly easier and reduce chance of rusting in.

I find it easier to compress DS spring coil, than to disconnect AHC high control or risk to much stretch on rear upper brake lines. This power build spring compressor set from Advance Auto, really worked well. The PS I just press down on rear axle as I hold DS of axle up with a jack. PS spring then just drops out, without use of spring compressor.

Factory installed a thin black rubber insulator which goes on top with spacer between that and coil spring. The the assembly (coil spring, spacers & insulator) fit around a large bump-stop.

 

[2001LC]

Stabilizer links and bushing installed, front & rears. Replacing these really makes a difference in the turns, More so at high speeds, as it reduces sway increasing stability.

Not waiting until stabilizer bar and brackets on LCA are worn out, keeps in new like condition ..SWEET!
Usually we wait until the links break, putting up with excessive sway in the turns. But then we see the stabilizer bars link mount holes worn out and link brackets on LCA worn through into metal.

 

[2001LC]

The bolts holding links and the bushing sometime rust in. So I add a little grease after cleaning as a PM.

I find it best to assemble both side loosely installing links and bushing. Then come back and torque to spec.

 

[2001LC]

Rear stabilizer links, spacer & bushings.

I use bolt as a tool to grease inside walls of spaces as a PM.

With rears, I torque links as I go.

After torquing link in bracket, I put in place up assembly torque bracket in place.

 

[2001LC]

Rear bar bushings & brackets are placed in loosely and torqued after complet assembly is in place.

Note: AHC rear bar rubber bushing are different size with AHC.

 

[Njck22]

For the bushings, you used the rubber grease, and then regular synthetic for the bolts right? Does the rubber grease seem to be that important? Worth the hefty(I'm assuming) price tag?

 

[2001LC]

For the bushings, you used the rubber grease, and then regular synthetic for the bolts right? Does the rubber grease seem to be that important? Worth the hefty(I'm assuming) price tag?

No grease is called for.

That said;

I used the rubber grease, because the collar was being difficult to press into the rubber bushing. I had purchased the grease from Toyota for ~$10 for brake calipers, and decided to give a try here.

I've been finding these collars worn out and bolts rusty on many rig (although, not this rig). So used the Red-N-tacky grease inside the collar and on bolt shaft as a lube to reduce wear as a PM against rust.

I also put some Red-N-Tacky on the brackets at points they contact frame as a rust PM. This again is a spot(s) I typically see rust.

 

[dace voit]

I'd not seen that tool. The video I posted took it to a pinpoint on one wire of a coil

I'm thinking your right, that I pushed the coil over the edge. Fuel smell was during and after warm up before changing coil. I need to do some more smell test (cold & hot) now that I've replaced the one coil. But first impression of lower fuel smell was cold. It did have a very slight drone while sitting a light in D. I've not driven since coil replaced, so need to get out and do so more test drives.

SAI system? not sure what you referring to (brain not working today..LOL)?
With Snowy where we did replace all coils, no fuel smell cold or hot after. We did not do A/F or O2 sensors, but now feel/know we should have.

Some thoughts on TBK drone:

It does have new Denso spark plugs, but the TT may be sweet. Doubt it will effect drone.

TBK has not had fuel injector service off vehicle only on, at ~46K. Nor fuel pressure regulator (FPR) replaced. You wouldn't think it necessary with such low miles. But low miles could indicate long periods of sitting without engine started. IIRC correct Toyota history showed fairly consistent low mile driving. Which may have been daily or weekly trips (no way to know) it could have also sat month at a time. The reason I mention this is Chuck at FIS told me that needles in fuel injectors and FPR get rust spots. Bad fuel and/or sitting not running engine could cause moisture on needles to form and rust. That the fuel pressure regulator will act badly at certain temperatures ~ 98F. A sign of the FPR is going bad is MPG will vary.

Fuel dampening device we only look to see if opens (pops up). But @abuck99 recently mention to me, he's seeing post on issues with it.

Another area to be aware of that we hear more issues with in the 06, is fuel pump. This one acts ups ascending mountain passes in many cases, but pump test fine. See notes in Snowy thread and Toyota history reports on this. Where dealer chased for years a shutdown ascending up to Eisenhower tunnel. Finally they (Stevenson Toyota) replaced the fuel pump and it was never reported again.

Gas cap seal gets old so mileage makes little difference.
Fuel return line clips on engine cover DS rear. Check to make sure it's on. Not big deal but vibration has it's effects shaking up fuel.

I doubt it's your coils at ~60K or your A/F or O2's sensors, as they seem more mileage sensitive than age. Although I now have my first found coil issue and only acting up under load when hot. So it goes to show they can go at any mileage. And some have had CAT codes at very low miles that turn out to be O2's (rears).

I've had issue with bad fuel often, that changing gas station and a can of 44K corrected. So considered that as well.

One other issue I've become concern with is throttle body. If anything makes you think that could be issue, I've a couple of extras we could swap out to see what happens.

Thanks for the drone tips. I've been reading on it a bit so when I get some time I'll dig in.

SAI=Secondary Air Intake.

How are you liking the blue headlights? I put them in my GF's t4r and didn't like them. The light output seemed strong but somehow the light was not enough and I felt the blue uncomfortable to my eyes. YMMV of course as some really like them.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the drone tips. I've been reading on it a bit so when I get some time I'll dig in.

SAI=Secondary Air Intake.

How are you liking the blue headlights? I put them in my GF's t4r and didn't like them. The light output seemed strong but somehow the light was not enough and I felt the blue uncomfortable to my eyes. YMMV of course as some really like them.

I've not driven at night with the new bulbs (Blue) yet, so I can't say.

 

[2001LC]

No leaks so buttoning up by installing shielding.

I driven a few hundred miles and had idling more than and hour. Not good idea to let idle for prolonged periods, but no choice when working on some systems. After each drive or idling I inspect for leaks. All looks good!

 

[2001LC]

Skid plate rust PM and bottom radiator foam ("cooler pack") pad install.

The radiator has foam padding all the way around it. This is the bottom piece that fits between it and skid plate. It is the only one that I've found needs PM (replacing).

 

[2001LC]

Toyota support tells me the foam is a vibration damping device. IDK, my thinking is it helps divert airflow through radiator.This foam goes bad. When it does go bad, it soaks up moisture like a spunge. So inspecting every few years and replace once it doesn't repel water.

I found where those two extra bolt go, oil filter hatch..DUH.
No extra parts, nut, bolts, fasteners or clips....NICE
#1 and #2 undershields installed. Only missing the little oil hatch that goes in #2 shield, as it didn't have one. I may have one in a box somewhere I'm looking now. But these get misplaced most any time some shop changes oil.

 

[2001LC]

Updated parts list. 98% accurate/cpmplet.

Total count>> 307.67 Part # Part
Various 200 Miles driven for parts & Machine shop
3/21/18 1 Engine 2UZ-fe Vvti w/shipping,$2,175
9/30/17 1 Engine $500 for 4runner engine (bad purchase)
4/2/18 1 Shipping Shipping
8/31/17 0.2 FSM Pro rata
1/15/18 0.5 Window wash Fluid top off from shop
Engine
Air filter
4/6/18 1 17801-50040 Air filter element
Drive Belt
4/11/18 1 National 203-ff Bearing, tensioner drive belt
1/18/18 1 16604-0F010 Idler Pulley & bearing
Spark plugs
4/5/18 8 SK20R11 Denso SK20R11 or NGK IFR6A11 (AA $9.99, $5.94. Last yr. $4.49, $$4.48 w/$20OFF)
Fuel
5/23/18 1 44k
4/6/18 1 23300-50090 Fuel Filter engine compartment
3/22/18 1 77285-60540 Clamp,3 Fuel tubes below brake master
11/27/17 1 77169-33020 Gasket, Fuel Suction Plate (fuel pump to tank)
Fuel rail
4/6/18 1 23280-50050 Fuel Pressure Regulator 2004-07
4/13/18 8 23291-41010 2329141010 INSULATOR, INJECTOR VIBRATION
4/6/18 1 23232-41081 23232-41081 (GASKET (FOR FUEL PUMP HOSE to damper))
4/6/18 1 90430-12026 90430-12026 GASKET(Fuel hose to rail held damper union bolt)
4/11/18 4 90430-12026 90430-12026 GASKET(Fuel crossover pipe to rails) 4)
4/3/18 8 Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO Fuel injector clean rebuild & test
Intake manifold
3/30/18 2 17171-50030 Gasket intake manifold to head (2)
4/3/18 1 22271-50050 Gasket, throttle body
Vacuum Hose
4/5/18 1 23829-50161 2382950161 HOSE, FUEL VAPOR FEED
4/6/18 3 90999-92003 Toyota Vacuum hose 2' section
AI
3/30/18 1 17342-50180 Hose AI No. 2 (longer RH water)
3/30/18 2 17376-50010 GASKET (2), AIR TUBE No 1 (Exhaust)
Oil
3/30/18 2 15692-50020 O-ring (figure 8, filter bracket to oil pump)
3/30/18 2 90301-67004 O-ring (large FOR OIL COOLER)
3/30/18 1 15777-50030 Return Hose
5/23/18 1 Oil Filter M1 filter
Oil pan
5/22/18 1 EPR BG
5/23/18 1 MOA BG
4/5/18 6 5W-30 Advanced Auto synthetic oil for 15min warm up with ERP BG oil flush
9/1/12 8 M1 5w-30 Oil
3/30/18 1 90430-12031 Gasket, Oil plug Drain washer
3/30/18 1 96721-19010 O-ring, oil dip stick guide tube to pan
3/30/18 1 15147-50011 GASKET, OIL STRAINER (pickup tube)
3/30/18 1 00295-00103 FIPG 1207B Sub is 103
Mounts engine
4/21/18 2 12361-50121 1236150121 INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, FRONT
Exhaust
4/6/18 2 90080-43036 Pipe Gasket
4/6/18 1 17198-50010 GASKET, EXHAUST MANIFOLD TO HEAD, LH
4/6/18 16 90179-10070 16 Nuts exhaust manifold (non reusable). 9017910070
4/11/18 6 90080-17187 6 Nuts Exhaust manifold pipe to front pipe (3 nuts each side) Look like
Timing Belt
4/5/18 1 13503-0F010 13503-50011 Idler pulley (Koyo
4/6/18 1 13505-0F010 13505-50030 Tensioner pulley assy (Koyo)
4/4/18 1 13540-50030 1354050030 Tensioner (Asisin BTT-502)
PCV
4/6/18 1 12261-50070 Hose, PVC DS
4/6/18 1 12262-50080 Hose, PVC PS
11/25/2017 4-18 3 Coolant SSL pink 50/50
4/5/18 1 Dist. water Dist. water
4/5/18 0.1 08826-00100 Seal packing 1282B (shop supplies pro rata)
4/5/18 1 90916-03100 Thermostat
4/5/18 1 16346-50010 gasket, Thermostat-Water inlet housing.
4/4/18 1 16210-50102 Clutch, fan May 05-07 VVTi (Aisin FCT-075) Amazons looks good
4/5/18 1 16307-0F010 Bracket, fan (Aisin FBT-002)
Radiator
5/22/18 1 G1000130859CSF Radiator CSF
4/5/18 1 16401-67150 Cap
5/23/28 1 16572-50150 Lower Hose
9/1/17 1 16571-50150 Upper hose
6/5/18 1 88578-60100 Packing, Cooler (Foam between #1 & radiator)
Heater tee's
4/6/18 2 87248-60460 8724860460 PIPE, HEATER WATER
Water by-pass
4/6/18 1 87245-6A220 87245-6A220 HOSE, HEATER WATER, INLET A Bypass to tee inlet to core
4/6/18 1 87245-6A191 87245-6A191 HOSE, HEATER WATER, OUTLET B Tee out to bypass pipe
3/30/18 2 16341-50020 GASKET(WATER BY-PASS JOINT, REAR & front 2 each)
3/30/18 1 96761-24019 O-ring, PIPE SUB-ASSY, WATER BY-PASS
AC
5/2/18 0.2 MISC Tools & Oil
4/27/18 2 90069-08007 O-ring, pipes on compressor & pipe "H" to/at radiator RH side
07 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser A/C Receiver Drier - Climate Control - Denso - PartsGeek 24067-05169619 A/C receiver drier
5/1/18 1 R1043393863ND Drier Desiccant Elem Denso
Drive train
3/16/18 1 Propeller shafts & spiders Grease shop supplies
Transmission
6/1/18 1 35178-30010 Drain & level check washer
4/5/18 8 00289-ATFWS Qtrs.. WS ATF
AHC
5/12/18 2.5 08886-81221 Suspension Fluid (2.5qts from shop)
9/28/17 5 49177-60010 AHC accumulator bleeder cap
Transfer case
3/16/18 2 90430-A0003 drain and fill washers
3/17/18 1.5 Qtrs.. M1 75w-90.
Rear differential
3/16/18 2 12157-10010 drain and fill washers
3/16/18 3.6 Qtrs.. M1 75w-90
Front differential
3/16/18 2 12157-10010 Gaskets, drain & fill washers
4/5/18 1 90311-47013 Axle seal, LH
4/4/18 1 90311-47027 Axle seal, RH
5/7/18 1.8 Qtrs.. M1 75w-90
4/6/18 1 41651-60010 Cushion, Differential (front press in)
4/6/18 1 41653-60010 STOPPER DIFFERENTIA (front top cushion)
4/11/18 1 41653-60020 STOPPER DIFFERENTIA (RH rear top cushion)
4/13/18 2 90105-12240 90105-12240 Bolts, #3 crossmember plus side bracket (4)
Front Drive shaft
4/6/18 2 43430-60040 Axle Assembly (snap ring included)
Steering knuckle
4/6/18 2 90316-A0001 Oil seal (inboard)
5/5/18 0.1 Shop Supplies grease
5/5/18 0.1 Shop Supplies Marine grease
Axle Hub / Wheel bearings
4/6/18 2 43421-60060 Hub Flange
5/5/18 2 43422-60070 Hub Flange gasket
4/6/18 12 42323-60030 cone washer
4/6/18 1 90520-31007 snap ring 2.4mm. To Hub flange D
5/1/18 0.3 Shop Supplies Solvent
5/1/18 1 Shop Supplies Wheel bearing grease
Power steering
4/15/18 1 ATF Qtrs. M1 MV full synthetic ATF
3/16/18 1 44327-30040 Hose & tube assembly LH gasket, Power steering HP line 03-07
3/16/18 1 44327-30030 Hose & tube assembly RH gasket, Power steering HP line 03-07
returned TAB-UZJ100-KIT Steering rack mounting bushings, (Febest rubber) Quality iffy)
4/12/18 1 Rubber Mount bushing CVJ $42 or eBay deltaap57 $54.95
4/6/18 1 17030-50150 Vacuum hose assemble
4/6/18 1 44348-60320 Power Steering Suction Hose
4/6/18 1 44412-60280 Power Steering Return Hose
5/21/18 1 89232-60022 8923260021 8923260022 Motor power telescopic
Brakes
5/9/18 4 31478-30010 31478-30010 CAP, BLEEDER PLUG(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)
47715-60020 PIN, Cylinder slide (slave lower pin w/rubber spacer) Rear
3/16/18 4 93319-15008 Screw w/washer ABS wire leads
3/16/18 4 94130-60500 Nut, ABS wire leads
Front Brakes
5/1/18 2 43512-60171 43512-60171 Rotor DISC, FRONT each
5/1/18 1 04465-60230 04465-60230 PAD KIT, DISC BRAKE, FRONT both side (4 pads)
4/28/18 1 04945-60010 04945-60010 SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL, FRONT both sides (all 4)
4/27/18 1 04479-60040 04479-60040 CYLINDER KIT, DISC BRAKE, FRONT
5/8/18 4 90240-06024 PIN, w/hole
Rear brakes
5/2/18 2 42431-60281 42431-60281 Rotor DISC, REAR
5/1/18 1 04466-60070 04466-60070 PAD KIT, DISC BRAKE, REAR
5/1/18 1 04946-60031 04946-60031 SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)
4/3/18 1 04948-60010 04948-60010 FITTING KIT, DISC BRAKE, REAR
4/27/18 1 04479-60250 04479-60250 CYLINDER KIT, DISC BRAKE, REAR
4/27/18 2 47493-0E010 Plug, E-Shoe adjusting rear rotor drum
Aftermarket Brakes
5/2/18 4 DOT 3 or $ synthetic
5/1/18 0.2 Shop supplies Caliper lube & cleaning solutions and brushes & sand paper
5/3/18 1 Custom Brake line set frame to diff Whisler RH 15 1/2" & LH 14"
5/9/18 1 STF1089 SS brake Line 6 pc SLEE OFF Road
Body
4/6/18 2 Struts hood Hood Lifts Monroe Max Amazon
7/1/18 3 wash/cleaning Shop
10/5/17 1 Paint detail 1F7 Sliver
6/13/18 1 Paint chip Detail sup paint chip & wind molding ploy clean
6/11/18 1 77350-60061 Lid Assy, Fuel filler door Used from LX with 1F7 color (silver) to match)
Door
6/6/18 1 75730-60041 Molding assy, RR D
Windshield
6/1/18 6 90467-08108 Clips windshield lower weather strip
Lights
4/6/18 1 81561-60680 LENS & BODY, REAR COMBINATION LAMP, LH
5/1/18 1 Bulb Rear tail light
6/4/18 4 Bulbs HL HB4 Low beam 51W
6/4/18 2 Bulbs HL HB3 High beam 60W
Interior
6/1/18 1 Carpet Carwash shampoo at car wash
58297-50020 Grommet, for floor mat hook
Seats
4/3/18 1 88891-60040 Cover, Cooler unit, face plate w/filter door hatch
4/3/18 1 88891-60060 Door, cooler unit face plate door
Door
5/30/18 1 81231-33010 Lens, Courtesy Lamp RR
DASH
05/24/18 1 84999-10310 Bulb, DASH wing window light
Undercarriage
6/11/18 1 Hatch Oil filter hatch
6/11/18 2 Hatch bolt Oil filter hatch bols
Stabilizer systems'
4/6/18 4 90948-01003 Cushion, link
4/6/18 2 94184-61001 Nut, link top
4/6/18 2 48820-60032 link w/bushing lower pressed in
4/6/18 2 48815-60111 Bushings, Stab Bar
4/6/18 4 48817-30010 cushions, link
4/6/18 2 90385-11021 Cushion, Bar to link
4/6/18 2 90560-10275 Collar, Bar to link
4/6/18 2 48815-26250 Bushings, w/AHC
5/4/18 2 OME80PR05 5mm OME spacers
5/4/18 2 OME80PR10 10mm OME spacers
MISC
6/1/18 2 Running boards Each side 1D2 used (local)
6/4/18 4 Running boards Nut 8x1.25
5/8/18 1 85143-60110 Grommet, RR Wiper
6/1/18 1 Bumper skin Front bumper skin 1D2 used (from SLC in 2017)

 

[2001LC]

Note: I've updated post #174 on page 9 with transmission fluid level check proceedure, as promised.

Which includes a TSB that gives us a lower ATF temperature to between 97 F and 115 F we must use when checking ATF level, this differs from the FSM spec of 115 F to 130 F.

Thank you @abuck99 for emailing the TSB.

 

[2001LC]

Perfecting body paint.

This starts by cleaning with a good car soap to lubricate microfiber scrubbing mitt.

Then I clay bar using same soap to lubricate. The new synthetic clay is sweet! It's fast and can be cleaned.

I had some stain from auto transport dripping fluid from vehicle stack above it. I really thought I'd gotten it all cleaned off last fall. But after clay bar, which really reveals, I found some staining remained in paint. Here and on hood.

I tried a typical aggressive clay to remove stain, nope. Then moving up the food chain all the way to Lacquer thinner, nope.

Finally after going from mildest to most aggressive shop cleaning supply, I removed the stains with 100 % fast Urethane.