Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (1 Viewer)

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Body fuel door.

I've been looking for this used, to color matching. I have a new OEM, but it must be painted. To paint this is a big issue. As matching color is not possible. So I just need to find a Classic Silver (1F7, 06 or 07 Land Cruiser) being parted. Tomorrow I'm going to a PDR (paintless dent repair) to see if they can make it look better. Sooner or later a used one will show up. I had similar issue with The Whitelady (01 LX470), where it took 9 months to find a white hood locally.

Used will give the very best color match. I've spend ~12 hours on this to date, still no good solution. So will see how PDR does.
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What is the diameter of the wire the clip retains, and also the size of the hole in the metal?
Looks like a door lock rod clip, something like this
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Anyone know of a front bumper skin 06-07 Classic silver (1F7 body color, bumper is 1D2 Thunder cloud Metallic) around?
I know someone has lying around after putting on there iron bumper.
The transporter from GA had bumper riding on steel plate at front of his trailer, rubbed the paint wrong:mad:
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Coil beginning to fail

Running rough (bump) but no CEL on dash or DTC in tech stream!

So I was driving across town to look at some running boards (RB) with AC on and OAT of 88 f. While sitting at a red light I felt a bump then another. It felt like AC pump cycling on then off twice in a row but with a kick. I'm thinking a possible issue with AC compressor. So I turned off the AC. Nothing happened again until after I'd parked engine off, while I looked at the RBs. After loading up the RB's and again while stopped at a red light AC off, I felt a few bumps in a row again. RPM dropped a bit to ~500, then picked a bit high to 1K and steadied at ~600. I slipped into N and all seemed fine.

Since AC was turned off and bumps came back, AC is no longer a concern.

I've been a little concerned transmission fluid level was not set right, so now I'm worried. Thinking bumps may be coming from transmission or torque converter. So I decided to just let cool overnight, and do a transmission fluid check in the morning using mini VCI cable to hook up to tech stream to actually see ATF fluid temp to set level.

So this meant I needed to get my mine VCI cable working. It had been give me issues disconnect then not making connection sometimes asking for password a real PITA. So I uninstalled the software and reinstalled starting with oldest version, then bring update to newer until it worked. I'm now thing it's not a software issue, but a bad mini VCI cable. Tool issue :bang:

Anyway I did get my ATF temp read out after turning tech stream on and off repeatedly. It was necessary to shift between gears and load engine/transmission by holding brake as I raised RPM while in gear. Finally reaching the required ATF temp of 115 F (116.5 f) I pulled the transmission fluid level plug. Nothing came out so I added .4 qt and retested. Now ~.2> qt came out. So I was just a tiny bit low, certainly not enough to cause any damage to transmission from my test drives.

Found it:

While loading engine/transmission while in gear I spotted #1 cylinder indicating a miss-fire with the associated bump.:hmm:

I suspect a weak coil. I didn't get a CEL or bad coil DTC, only a miss fire while under load.

To confirm it was a coil going bad and not some other issue like compression, fuel/air, ECM or wire harness issue I swap #1 coil with #3. Fantastic, miss-fire moved to number #3 cylinder now. I grab another used coil of the shelf and installed it.

In hindsight, I did have other indications a coil was going bad. i.e. fuel smell and oscillating sound during idle. What I first thought was possibly due to excessive idling, which is not recommended but necessary when working on engine, transmission and AHC testing. I noticed idle was not as smooth, more of a oscillating sound then steady as I like to hear, which became more noticeable with time. Also I noticed a raw fuel smell that was getting a bit heavy in the shop while idling over time.

If the budget allowed, I'd just put in all new coils at this point. But until a DTC states bad, they're considered serviceable. Same is true with A/F (front O2's) and O2 (rears) sensors. They are consider good until failure. But, IMHO they weaken with time and do not perform at peak through their entry life.

What do you say all new OEM coils and O2's now or wait for failure?

When to replace Ignition coils.
 
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2001LC said:
Running rough (bump) but no CEL on dash or DTC in tech stream!

So I was driving across town to look at some running boards (RB) with AC on and OAT of 88 f. While sitting at a red light I felt a bump then another. It felt like AC pump cycling on then off twice in a row but with a kick, strong enough I felt. I'm thinking a possible issue with AC compressor. So I turned off the AC. Nothing happened again until after I'd parked engine off while I looked at the RB's. After loading up the RB's and again while stopped at a red light AC off, I felt a few bumps in a row again. RPM dropped a bit to ~500, then picked a bit high to 1K and steadied at ~600. I slipped into N and all seemed fine.

Since AC was turned off and bumps came back, AC is no longer a concern.

I've been a little concerned transmission fluid level was not set right, so now I'm worried. Thinking bumps may be coming from transmission or torque converter. So I decided to just let cool overnight, and do a transmission fluid check in the morning using mini VCI cable to hook up to tech stream to actually see ATF fluid temp to set level.

So this meant I needed to get my mine VCI cable working. It had been give me issues disconnect then not making connection sometimes asking for password a real PITA. So I uninstalled the software and reinstalled starting with oldest version, then bring update to newer until it worked. I'm now thing it's not a software issue, but a bad mini VCI cable. Tool issue :bang:

Anyway I did get my ATF temp read out after turning tech stream on and off repeatedly. It was necessary to shift between gears and load engine/transmission by holding brake as I raised RPM while in gear. Finally reaching the required ATF temp of 115 F (116.5 f) I pulled the transmission fluid level plug. Nothing came out so I added .4 qt and retested. Now ~.2> qt came out. So I was just a tiny bit low, certainly not enough to cause any damage to transmission from my test drives.

Found it:

While loading engine/transmission while in gear I spotted #1 cylinder indicating a miss-fire with the associated bump.:hmm:

I suspect a weak coil. I didn't get a CEL or bad coil DTC, only a miss fire while under load.

To confirm it was a coil going bad and not some other issue like compression, fuel/air, ECM or wire harness issue I swap #1 coil with #3. Fantastic, miss-fire moved to number #3 cylinder now. I grab another used coil of the shelf and installed it.

In hindsight, I did have other indications a coil was going bad. i.e. fuel smell and oscillating sound during idle. What I first thought was possibly due to excessive idling, which is not recommended but necessary when working on engine, transmission and AHC testing. I noticed idle was not as smooth, more of a oscillating sound then steady as I like to hear, which became more noticeable with time. Also I noticed a raw fuel smell that was getting a bit heavy in the shop while idling over time.

If the budget allowed, I'd just put in all new coils at this point. But until a DTC states bad, they're considered serviceable. Same is true with A/F (front O2's) and O2 (rears) sensors. They are consider good until failure. But, IMHO they weaken with time and do not perform at peak through their entry life.

What do you say all new OEM coils and O2's now or wait for failure?

When to replace Ignition coils.
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I guess some of the answer would come from how far out you drive the vehicle. If it's a local daily driver around town, maybe wait til the coils/02's fail. If used for further trips, I would replace. With everything you've done on this gal, I say change them out now and have piece of mind.
 
I'd say that's between you and the buyer.

Coil health can be determined with a gap tester but I don't know how those would work on this motor. I've only seen on other COP motors. If the plugs and boots looked serviceable when removed then keeping the coils is probably ok. If there were any issues there then PMing the coils could be done. If I were buying this rig, I'd definitely do the o2 sensors as I usually do them around 150k regardless. My budget would determine whether coils or not. If not replaced then I would definitely have a spare on hand. Ultimately, the cost of new coils to get no issues for another 150k or more miles isn't a waste to me. As 05JLX470 said, with the work done to this rig, coils and o2 sensors would be setting this thing up for even longer.
 
05JLX470 said:
I guess some of the answer would come from how far out you drive the vehicle. If it's a local daily driver around town, maybe wait til the coils/02's fail. If used for further trips, I would replace. With everything you've done on this gal, I say change them out now and have piece of mind.
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Good points. They will fail soon or later and best if not far from home.

dace voit said:
I'd say that's between you and the buyer.

Coil health can be determined with a gap tester but I don't know how those would work on this motor. I've only seen on other COP motors. If the plugs and boots looked serviceable when removed then keeping the coils is probably ok. If there were any issues there then PMing the coils could be done. If I were buying this rig, I'd definitely do the o2 sensors as I usually do them around 150k regardless. My budget would determine whether coils or not. If not replaced then I would definitely have a spare on hand. Ultimately, the cost of new coils to get no issues for another 150k or more miles isn't a waste to me. As 05JLX470 said, with the work done to this rig, coils and o2 sensors would be setting this thing up for even longer.
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I've never had one go out, even this one I caught early before failure. So I'm not sure, if one dies does engine go into limp mode?

You've both hit the nail on the head; It would give peace of mind and it would indeed set it up for longer term. It also may give some incremental benefit to performance. It's more of spend the extra $$ now and be done with it for next ~150k miles, or deal with it later.

Coils are easy enough to replace on the road with a 10mm socket wrench, a little mechanical skill and a something like a bluetooth device & app to tell which coil or coils have gone bad is a good idea.

A/F and/or O2's sensors are a little more difficult and require more tools. If those have rusted in can be a big labor deal.

I had two that looked suspect I didn't used while doing engine assemble; one color of plastic brown, the other boot bad. The one that I replaced this weekend looked good (color & boot). I'm saving that one (failing coil underload) for future testing to experiment on.

Are you talking about the old gap (light) tester for points in a distributor?
These is one test that could shows weakness indicate failure early, but I've yet to find anyone with equipment.


Some say their either good or bad no inbetween. I've sung to the opinion that we get incremental benefit by replacing around 150K miles or sooner as you Dace. That these are like light bulbs or TV screens. In that they are brightest when new and over time dim, but still work (serviceable) for a long time.

Interest what you've said about replacing O2's as PM. We've seen failure come up more with the 2UZ VVT engine (May 05-2007). Where they suddenly throws a code indicating both CAT "possible" bad. The rigs that have upstream mechanics all in tip top shape, have found replacing rear O2's sensores corrects the issue in most cases. It so strange they both go at same time.

All you may find interesting:
I started noticing a slight difference in idle and more raw gas smell after my high RPM run (mentioned done on test drive). I do this high RPM run, to not only test the performance. But also do what I call a cook-off (like turning an oven to self clean mode). It takes engine and more so exhaust/CATs/O2's to a higher temp than normal. In theory cooking off residue that may be in exhaust as it also blows carbon from cylinders. I started watching my bluetooth app for fuel trims after this, as idle seemed (hard to put my finger-on) too changed just a bit and gas smell at idle became noticeable. I was thinking possible A/F (front O2's) sensors weakening. But as I now know it was a coil going bad (not dead yet).

Interesting, with the Snowy I had strong fuel smell at idle before any work began. We replaced: vacuum lines, intake manifold gasket, filters, all fuel injector, FPR, PCV, etc. Much the same as The Unicorn, except we did replace coils. The gas smell was gone when done. I didn't know what was biggest factory in eliminating gas smell, but know feel it was new coils. Additional it eventually through a code at ~210K miles, indicate both CATs. I recommend rear O2's, waiting now to hear outcome. Now wishing we'd gone ahead replaced A/F & O2's as well back when I had it.
 
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Not the light tester but a tool like this:Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

It allows you to increase the gap to see where the coils charge starts to weaken. Your high RPM run likely pushed the coil over the edge. Did you detect any of the idle drone while in drive? I've seen where some felt a bad coil caused it. TBK has it pretty bad at times, sometimes it's undetectable. The thing runs tip-top so I'm not inclined to think coil. I do have some Denso iridium TT's that I'm going to play around with when I get the time.

I've read quite a few threads about the cat issue on the VVt motor. That is even more evidence for o2 sensor replacement IMHO. Your dimming over time analogy hits the nail on the head I think.

On the gas smell at idle, was that when warm or only when cold? Also, I've been through the thread but I don't remember if you did any work to the SAI system on Snowy? TBK has no unburnt fuel smell. That's a big difference from my 1FZ which smelled really bad after start up when cold. When warm it wasn't nearly as bad but smelled rich. Then again, that motor was little more than a sophisicated tractor motor...
 
the wideband sensors on the front on the very late 100 should only last half as long as the rear narrow band sensors. If the age is unknown, replace those first. I believe there is a relationship regarding the supposed failure of cats and single minded mechanics not knowing or just not looking at the system as a whole.
I wouldn't ignore the ecm commanded AFR and actual, fuel trims, and wideband voltage data (live)
 
dace voit said:
Not the light tester but a tool like this:Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

It allows you to increase the gap to see where the coils charge starts to weaken. Your high RPM run likely pushed the coil over the edge. Did you detect any of the idle drone while in drive? I've seen where some felt a bad coil caused it. TBK has it pretty bad at times, sometimes it's undetectable. The thing runs tip-top so I'm not inclined to think coil. I do have some Denso iridium TT's that I'm going to play around with when I get the time.

I've read quite a few threads about the cat issue on the VVt motor. That is even more evidence for o2 sensor replacement IMHO. Your dimming over time analogy hits the nail on the head I think.

On the gas smell at idle, was that when warm or only when cold? Also, I've been through the thread but I don't remember if you did any work to the SAI system on Snowy? TBK has no unburnt fuel smell. That's a big difference from my 1FZ which smelled really bad after start up when cold. When warm it wasn't nearly as bad but smelled rich. Then again, that motor was little more than a sophisicated tractor motor...
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I'd not seen that tool. The video I posted took it to a pinpoint on one wire of a coil

I'm thinking your right, that I pushed the coil over the edge. Fuel smell was during and after warm up before changing coil. I need to do some more smell test (cold & hot) now that I've replaced the one coil. But first impression of lower fuel smell was cold. It did have a very slight drone while sitting a light in D. I've not driven since coil replaced, so need to get out and do so more test drives.

SAI system? not sure what you referring to (brain not working today..LOL)?
With Snowy where we did replace all coils, no fuel smell cold or hot after. We did not do A/F or O2 sensors, but now feel/know we should have.

Some thoughts on TBK drone:

It does have new Denso spark plugs, but the TT may be sweet. Doubt it will effect drone.

TBK has not had fuel injector service off vehicle only on, at ~46K. Nor fuel pressure regulator (FPR) replaced. You wouldn't think it necessary with such low miles. But low miles could indicate long periods of sitting without engine started. IIRC correct Toyota history showed fairly consistent low mile driving. Which may have been daily or weekly trips (no way to know) it could have also sat month at a time. The reason I mention this is Chuck at FIS told me that needles in fuel injectors and FPR get rust spots. Bad fuel and/or sitting not running engine could cause moisture on needles to form and rust. That the fuel pressure regulator will act badly at certain temperatures ~ 98F. A sign of the FPR is going bad is MPG will vary.

Fuel dampening device we only look to see if opens (pops up). But @abuck99 recently mention to me, he's seeing post on issues with it.

Another area to be aware of that we hear more issues with in the 06, is fuel pump. This one acts ups ascending mountain passes in many cases, but pump test fine. See notes in Snowy thread and Toyota history reports on this. Where dealer chased for years a shutdown ascending up to Eisenhower tunnel. Finally they (Stevenson Toyota) replaced the fuel pump and it was never reported again.

Gas cap seal gets old so mileage makes little difference.
Fuel return line clips on engine cover DS rear. Check to make sure it's on. Not big deal but vibration has it's effects shaking up fuel.

I doubt it's your coils at ~60K or your A/F or O2's sensors, as they seem more mileage sensitive than age. Although I now have my first found coil issue and only acting up under load when hot. So it goes to show they can go at any mileage. And some have had CAT codes at very low miles that turn out to be O2's (rears).

I've had issue with bad fuel often, that changing gas station and a can of 44K corrected. So considered that as well.

One other issue I've become concern with is throttle body. If anything makes you think that could be issue, I've a couple of extras we could swap out to see what happens.


jerryb said:
the wideband sensors on the front on the very late 100 should only last half as long as the rear narrow band sensors. If the age is unknown, replace those first. I believe there is a relationship regarding the supposed failure of cats and single minded mechanics not knowing or just not looking at the system as a whole.
I wouldn't ignore the ecm commanded AFR and actual, fuel trims, and wideband voltage data (live)
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On the VVt we are seeing the O2's (rears) go bad all to often and in pairs.

I've never given much thought to A/F or O2's until now. You've both open my eyes to these may need replacing even sooner than coils.
 
I found some running boards with a perfect color match 1D2 locally. Boards were missing bolts, nut and front screws. I found all except nuts in my loosen bolt box. Picked up some nut from ACE, and boards are now on. I know many like look without, so do I. But I like to step up to roof and protect side from rock chips from tires.

Before adding running boards I clean out the leave traps.
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Need to clean and buff but looks good.
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While bumper skin, off I painted the upper bump support as a PM with POR-15. This area like the lower windshield mold gets grit acting like sandpaper. The POR-15 should protect. A lite sandand cleaning with paint prep the paint.
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Then I remember I picked up a front bumper passing thought Salt lake City ~6 months ago. It match and fit as well. Sweet!
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Paint condition of bumper skin and running boards is ok, not perfect. I suppose better than one would expect for age.
 
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While headlights out I replace Bulbs (Low beam, Fogs, High Beams). This is a set @benjawi4 gave me for payment of work I did on his rig. I've never tried this brand, should be COOL...Blue...LOL

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2001LC said:
I found some running boards with a perfect color match 1D2 locally. Boards were missing bolts, nut and front screws. I found all except nuts in my loosen bolt box. Picked up some nut from ACE, and boards are now on. I know many like look without, so do I. But I like to step up to roof and protect side from rock chips from tires.

Before adding running boards I clean out the leave traps.
View attachment 1716755
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I just saw this. I was peeking behind these on my truck today and they were half packed with dirt and leaves. I had no idea these were collecting debris.

BTW The OSRAM light bulbs are excellent.
 
abuck99 said:
I just saw this. I was peeking behind these on my truck today and they were half packed with dirt and leaves. I had no idea these were collecting debris.

BTW The OSRAM light bulbs are excellent.
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Yeah the front fender "leave pocket" have plenty of small water drain holes, just not large enough for debris to fall out. The debris collects and holds in the moisture. So cleaning once in a while is worthwhile.

Tried out the OSRAM, not bad. I just got back from short drive on HWY. It was nearing dusk, so still fairly light out. I hit the high beams, man they really illuminated all of the road signs and in daylight...WOW. I could have used these on my trip back from CA. You could really piss off oncoming with these!
 
Good lord! Your work and the documentation of it is amazing. I have a lot of questions and I just finished the thread and it appears so have you. I better hurry. I own a 98 LX470 (183k mi), Slee removed the AHC, and replaced with 1.5" lift, OME shocks. I think you called this a "UniGal". My wife has a 07 GX470 (VVTi) (145k mi) and I have a 03 Tundra (165k). Thats 3 4.7's in the stable. I always assumed my Tundra and her GX just had so much "power" was the weight difference. I wish my LX was just more powerful and perhaps you have shown the way. if it had more power it would be just perfect. The LX is the best traveler by far. BTW we live in S Denver. South of C470

1)where are you looking to find all these usable motors? Just hours of CL search or something more narrow? Do you reveal your sources?

2)The VVT is "self contained"? Perhaps I didn't read enough but the harnesses simply work or you made mods and programming to the ECU?

3)Have you ever given thought to using a 5.7 from a 200 Series LC or LX? Possible?

4)I use Scan Gauge2 in all vehicles. Is this how you determined finite details in transmission temp issues? If not do you use another reader? you mentioned something on your phone.

5)I accepted the LX as a compromise when I was looking for a LC. Better condition, lower miles. Now I am not so sad but one thing that I DESPISE is the head lights. The brights are more than good but low beams BLOW. Always wishing for better when I am driving at night, waiting for that kamekazi moose to run out from the woods. Any suggestions for the weird LX set up?

6)I too have no operable telescopic steering column and tilt is marginal. I have disassembled and everything works fine with out "pressure". Switch seems fine. I assumed the column itself was locked up but I am afraid to hit it harder. Think air bag. Could this be a computer issue?

7) too many questions? Because I am sure I have more.

What you have done is an invaluable service. Thanks so much.
 
Tchecki said:
Good lord! Your work and the documentation of it is amazing. I have a lot of questions and I just finished the thread and it appears so have you. I better hurry. I own a 98 LX470 (183k mi), Slee removed the AHC, and replaced with 1.5" lift, OME shocks. I think you called this a "UniGal". My wife has a 07 GX470 (VVTi) (145k mi) and I have a 03 Tundra (165k). Thats 3 4.7's in the stable. I always assumed my Tundra and her GX just had so much "power" was the weight difference. I wish my LX was just more powerful and perhaps you have shown the way. if it had more power it would be just perfect. The LX is the best traveler by far. BTW we live in S Denver. South of C470 Not finished yet, but in final stretch. I'm near Street of Southglenn.

1)where are you looking to find all these usable motors? Just hours of CL search or something more narrow? Do you reveal your sources?
Just to name a few:
Local yards.
CL around the country
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
Used 2007 Lexus Gx470 Engine Engine Assembly (4.7l, Vin T, 5th Di
2)The VVT is "self contained"? Perhaps I didn't read enough but the harnesses simply work or you made mods and programming to the ECU? I use my harness and ECU that came in The Unicorn.

3)Have you ever given thought to using a 5.7 from a 200 Series LC or LX? NO Possible? Anything's possible but it's not what I do. I'm into factory stock. The engine vary but we've two basic long blocks in the 100 series: VVT and Non VVT.

4)I use Scan Gauge2 in all vehicles. Is this how you determined finite details in transmission temp issues? I've a MINI VCI cable hooked to my PC that reads ATF temp. I'm not happy with the one I have, as cable works when it wants. I'll be buying another, hopefully a good one! If not do you use another reader? you mentioned something on your phone. My BlueDriver (bluetooth) I'm also not happy with. It has a software bug the company has been saying they'd fix for 8 months now. But they have two makes ahead of Toyota that also need fixing. It does not read transmission temp. It was given to me for some work I did on a local mud members rig, as it happens he lived close to you.

5)I accepted the LX as a compromise when I was looking for a LC. Better condition, lower miles. Now I am not so sad but one thing that I DESPISE is the head lights. The brights are more than good but low beams BLOW. Always wishing for better when I am driving at night, waiting for that kamekazi moose to run out from the woods. Any suggestions for the weird LX set up? You can change bulbs.

You'll find many threads in mud on lights & bulbs. You can modify the headlight housing. You can also convert front end to a Land Cruiser, but finding a hood is tough and then you'll need to deal with color and wire sockets. Not worth the effort in my book.

But really, most seem to like the Lexus lights better and convert LC to HID's.

6)I too have no operable telescopic steering column and tilt is marginal. I have disassembled and everything works fine with out "pressure". Switch seems fine. I assumed the column itself was locked up but I am afraid to hit it harder. Think air bag. Could this be a computer issue? Motor(s) are probably just tired. Seems telescope is one that goes bad most often. Also look at the worm gear set up. Again many threads in mud on this and the different issues. Mud is so great as most anything someone has done and written about.

7) too many questions? Because I am sure I have more. You can PM with phone or email anytime you'd like to come by and have me look at your 100 series or just talk.

What you have done is an invaluable service. Thanks so much.
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Expanded above for replies.
I do hope many find these threads valuable, and you're more than welcome!

Look in the first link of my signature and you'll find links to engines. Where you can swap directly with 100 series of your group (98-99, 00-02, 03-may 05 and May 05-07) Once you step outside the group you'll have different parts that need swapping. Swaping a VVT into non VVT rig isn't something I studies. If VVT from a 100 series going into a VVT 100 series, it just drops in wire harness and all. Many difference in the VVt as compared to non VVT, beyond the engine compartment (ECU/ECM, relays, fuel, exhaust, sensors, etc).

Toyota made little and big changes each two or three years on the 100 series. The long block is the same 98-may 05, but breathing and controls like ECU/ECM changed in 00, then again in 03. In 03 Toyota change transmission and gearing of differentials is my understanding. Then VVT in May 05..
 
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This was biggest restore job to date.

I've tried to keep this thread in kind of and order or progression. Many times I'm worked on something and just doing a little here or there depending on parts and what was opened up, not really in order I've posted.

So as I finish up the interior and body paint perfecting with touch up and DA buffing. I'll fill in some stuff I missed posting earlier, or at least what I recall not posting as there was a ton of stuff done. So I'll be jumping around a bit now to fill some stuff not yet shown.

I had so many system apart at one time it looked like a bomb shell hit, and was a shell of a 100 series sitting on jack stands. My little shop was pack with parts. Having been "stuck" (my bad for not inspecting closely) with that first engine/trany that is rebuildable (not what I needed). That engine really took my time and still is taking up available space. I had parts everywhere and still do, packed away best I could. It was challenging and time consume keeping everything separated. I was storing tons of parts even under the rig while on jack stands as it sat without engine, front diff, steering rack, master brake/ABS assembly, brake lines, front drive shafts, knuckles, tires/wheel, rotors, calipers, seats, glove box, dash covers, console, molding and so on. You can imagine how many parts, nuts, bolts and screws I had around.

Now, other than a few pieces of interior molding I've off for carpet cleaning and one more issue on/under seat (i hope a sensor, more on this soon), it's all back together.

I ended up with two small 10 mm bolt leftover. Which are for rear license plate mounting.

I started with a non running rig for the most part. I could start engine kind of and move a few feet lucky. But I just had no idea what condition many systems were in. Then as I got it together and did first start up of replacement engine, a number of parts and tool issue hit all at once. All in all these parts and tool issues were beyond my control and set me back almost 3 weeks.

The amount of codes I started with was very lengthy, here's most but not all screens
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But now it is so sweet, man do I love this ride. Yesterday I played with the Radio. Seem it needs re-setting-up of controls every time power (battery) disconnected. First time I've every dealt with aftermarket much less a stock radio or NAV head unit. I did enough set-up to get steering wheel controls working, radio on and bluetooth of my iphone connected. This radio/nav has a tons of stuff in it, even wifi and internet from what little I know of it. I could hear calls but other party couldn't hear me, which is some setting or mute. It has a mic in head unit but not that good, from what I'm told by PO. PO has been great answering any question I have. He said that for under $500, newer, even better head unit can be pop in.

This one, as each one of these restores, was full of first for me. I learn a little more with each project. I feel I'm getting better with each one as well.;)
 
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Trunk Monkey
Trunk Monkey
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My First 100 Series
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Slashzero
Slashzero

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