Hot Damn!
Builds Megadoomer Build (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter Megadoomer
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #282
Last night I pumped out a door panel.
Today I'm at my father in laws to somehow squeeze the setup in.
Today I'm at my father in laws to somehow squeeze the setup in.
- Thread starter
- #283
So the fan took all day and it was full of exciting challenges. I researched for months to better my cooling and possibly increase gas mileage. I had a mechanical fan without a clutch. I only had 2.75 inches from rad core to the water pump. Not enough room for a clutch fan and a lot of electric fans that was slim enough did not pull much cfm.
My thought was to get a dual fan so the thick portion of the motor was offset from my water pump. I got a Derale dual 12" setup with spal fans that pull 4000cfm. The width is 26in but my radiator is only 18in. So I had to make a bracket to force the air thru the core.
This the space I started with.
I had a 3/4 sq tube as the spacer to keep the rad tanks off of the supports. I cut about 1/2in off the support to pull the radiator forward. Also had to reposition the condenser.
My thought was to get a dual fan so the thick portion of the motor was offset from my water pump. I got a Derale dual 12" setup with spal fans that pull 4000cfm. The width is 26in but my radiator is only 18in. So I had to make a bracket to force the air thru the core.
This the space I started with.
I had a 3/4 sq tube as the spacer to keep the rad tanks off of the supports. I cut about 1/2in off the support to pull the radiator forward. Also had to reposition the condenser.
- Thread starter
- #284
The shroud was wide and I had to notch for my steering box and a little bit for the frame on the passenger side. The lower hose was also touching.
I flipped the cut pieces and welded back on.
I took 16 ga 4x1.5 channel to create the brackets and the block for the portion that was larger than the rad core.
I flipped the cut pieces and welded back on.
I took 16 ga 4x1.5 channel to create the brackets and the block for the portion that was larger than the rad core.
- Thread starter
- #285
I had to hog out some of the plastic of the fans to get it to fit. I still only had 3 1/8 inches of room. Took out a rib of each fan.
I have a thermostat that kicks the fans on at 195 and turns off at 185. Here is the final fit.
Even with all the cutting we still had lots of hitting, smashing, tweaking and F words before it fell into place.
I have a thermostat that kicks the fans on at 195 and turns off at 185. Here is the final fit.
Even with all the cutting we still had lots of hitting, smashing, tweaking and F words before it fell into place.
looks like a real tight fit.. sure theres enough clearance to account for body/chassis flex?
- Thread starter
- #287
Nope. But i guess I'll find out some day. The motor is solid mounted and doesn't move at all. So I got that covered.
- Thread starter
- #288
Last night I left the Doomer at my father in laws. All we had left was bolting it to the side of the radiator. Bolted in, let it cycle a few times and the temp was spot on. We took it for a ride and there was a noise coming from the engine area. Effe me.
We had to squeeze the top and bottom of the shroud between the rad tanks and it bowed the middle towards the engine. Under acceleration it hit my water pump.
I left an option for this issue. We cut about 3/4 of the top of the shroud and leaned it forward on the top only. This gave us plenty of room. The test drive confirmed.
We even had time to finish my shower.
We had to squeeze the top and bottom of the shroud between the rad tanks and it bowed the middle towards the engine. Under acceleration it hit my water pump.
I left an option for this issue. We cut about 3/4 of the top of the shroud and leaned it forward on the top only. This gave us plenty of room. The test drive confirmed.
We even had time to finish my shower.
Hot showers!
- Thread starter
- #290
I put on the front door panels and they look good. I had to dig around to find the arm rests. Only 1 bolt was still in the rests so I went to Home Deposit and got new ones to match. Turns out that 1 bolt was an odd ball and maybe it got stripped in the door and the P.O. changed it. All the other holes did not like my new stainless fasteners. Lame.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Different thread pitch?
Like an M8? 1.0, 1.25, or 1.5?
Like an M8? 1.0, 1.25, or 1.5?
RUSH55
SILVER Star
M6 I should say
- Thread starter
- #294
Ill try that. I can thread my M6 nutsert tool to verify I suppose.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
I just remembered that my armrest bolts were/are Phillips head. Is that old mystery bolt a Phillips?
- Thread starter
- #296
No, it was a 1/4"-20 with an allen head. I thought it was weird that it was standard, but I went with it anyway. I remember the others being a phillips with a washer.
- Thread starter
- #297
M6, confirmed. I went back Home depot and got M6-40mm and they work great. Also got a bucket for my shower kit. I almost got the orange homer bucket untill I saw an all black one with a screw top in the paint area. Had to get black.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Good pick on the black!
- Thread starter
- #299
I am going to redo my wheel bearings and axle seals this weekend. I am hoping I dont have hub or birf damage. I have the coarse drum birf. So looked at what it would take to replace the birfs and they don't seem to exist online. Then I was thinking of upgrading to the fine spline. What do I have to change other than the hub for this to work? Can I use my small pattern knuckle?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
That is a good question, and I do not know! You will need to research steering arms, find 2 fine-spline birfs, and 2 lock-outs...
