Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB (3 Viewers)

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After sitting in the shadow ...... starting the engine, how long did the Goat run without choke?
Wouldn't let the engine run for less than half an hour after 4 weeks.

It runs without choke as soon as it fires up. Took a while to get gas to the Big window but once it started it started and ran.

What is the thinking behind not running an engine over 30 minutes after sitting? I’ve never heard that one.
 
What is the thinking behind not running an engine over 30 minutes after sitting? I’ve never heard that one.

I wrote: Wouldn't let the engine run for less than half an hour after 4 weeks.... don`t wrote : not running an engine over 30 min.;)
Background:
The carburetor produce a fat mixture for the engine during cold start because fuel condenses on the cold suction pipes
and cylinder walls and can therefore no longer burn.
A cold start puts more strain on the gasoline engine than a longer motorway journey,
because the condensing fuel washes the oil on the cold cylinder walls and dilutes the oil.


That´s why it´s better to run an engine after cold start at least 30 minutes.......:)
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Just had 45 minutes, Sir..... always busy.
I turned your car ..... it's just easier 4 you to apply fluid film...
..dogs of course fixed....before!........so they won't fall out.

...........45....................45.....................45......................45................45............45
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........ it`s time 4 Radish salad, Spaghetti (with a secret sauce .....I don't tell everything ! ;)
an Espresso .....................
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Coca Cola a bit later.
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..... @ the Mississippi during our first trip there .....was probably in the twenties...
@ that time there was only black and white photography.....

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.....yesterday I painted the automobile a bit (only red paint at home) used an extra thin brush....
..........................................................................thinned the red color
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a little.
 
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Did some horse trading with Lockwood with the 750-16’s on the Goat for a set of 255/85-16s. I’m getting anxious to get this guy out of the dusty equipment shed.

All the parts are collected, now I need to clear this 45 SWB project and get started on my old Goat.

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Random non-tech:
1) good thing not to have roost-able rafters in vehicle storage shed with non-white and/or topless rigs
2) what’s getting added to all the Coke?
3) do we really know the cab size differences between fixed top SWB’s, removable top SWB‘s, and LPB’s. I‘ve heard the rumors, but have never seen proof, and don’t have a full complement of rigs to test theories, except that the repop OEM roof seal for the LPBs mostly fits my FT SWB.
 
Not sure on size. I’ll measure some things. I’m really looking forward to the seats coming back for the 64. I’m pushing the steering wheel up and forward and it should make a big difference
 
Aye foo where the build thread for TX red?

Who me?



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The Goat v 2.0
The Goat 2.0

4 months dead. So much has been going on around Tilda Bogue.

I sold the entire axle and suspension setup I spent so many hours building only to buy it back......

Then I started thinking about pulling 255/85-16s down the road (or even off the line) with my 53 year old F135

Then I thought about this. Then that.

In the end what I want is a solid driver like I have in Project Patina.

So I bought a 2F, 4 speed and split case to go with my 3.70 axles. This will be a multi month project because I accidentally bought an FJ80 that needs a bit of attention before I can dive into the Goat 2.0 project (see signature...it’s a cool truck)
 
I purchased a very nice 84 2F from @Dustin Messina that he had bought for his now sold FJ55 project. The 2F has 170 compression across the board but since I had it out I figured I’d reseal it so if it leaks it’s my fault.
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She’s dirty but that’s ok.
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Dustin snapped off one of the air rail plugs but I managed to get it out without breaking the EZ

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I tried to make myself stop at certain points but then I gave in and took it all apart (except for head gasket.....this is no 1FZ)

All signs point to a fresh rebuild so this process was probably moot. Good solid gaskets with no signs of leaking.

I fixed the oil galley plug since I recently lost one out of the blue on R2D260.....

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Cam looks good. Pistons look good. Cylinder walls look good. Compression tells that tale but it’s nice to know.
Bolts are in Zepp orange tonight then off to the media shaker
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OEM gasket kit to install once this pile gets back from blasting and powder

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Somebody told me once to quit overthinking things. Wait a minute...
 
Somebody told me once to quit overthinking things. Wait a minute...

I’ll tell you what I did that I regret. Spending all the time and money rebuilding the drum brakes. I should have swapped all this over at the beginning.

Live and learn. I was overcome with the originality that went against drivability.

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I’ll tell you what I did that I regret. Spending all the time and money rebuilding the drum brakes. I should have swapped all this over at the beginning.

Live and learn. I was overcome with the originality that went against drivability.

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That 2f looks better than I thought when I grabbed it! Kinda hate to see it leave now, but going to a good cause.
 
That 2f looks better than I thought when I grabbed it! Kinda hate to see it leave now, but going to a good cause.

Well that’s 6 hours of work to get it there but I’m leaning heavy on your 170 compression videos
 
Making a list. Checking it twice.

It’s easy to drop a grand in the little things

TLC performance - $128

Stainless Engine bolts - $70

Clutch/slave/Remflex/gauges - $350

EGR plate - $75

CR fan/clutch/thermo - $325

Water Pump - $120



Need



DUI

Sniper

Starter

Clutch fork and TO bearing holder
 

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