Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB

[wngrog]

30,000 miles on a 45 is serious driving.


I failed to mention that I chickened out hammering my rear shackles out. I could still see rubber in there so I called it good. Replacing just the shackle ends took 90% of the shake out.

I’ve got my feelers out in Venezuela for new pins. I hammered on one until I figured I was about to break it.

 

[wngrog]

I’m about to tackle this center arm again.

I got a NLA Chinese arm kit out of Venezuela

The bushings that came with it fit like so. By hand, that is as far as they will slide up the new center arm.

I have a second simple kit from @cruiseroutfit

The bushings in that kit slide right on

So. Anyone that has done this.

A) which bushing would you use? I’m leaning toward mixing the kits.

B) I have no Woodruff Keys. My old
Setup had none and the complete kit
Had none. Why do they matter?

C) what type of puller have you had luck with to get the old one out. I beat mine last time and it did not budge. None of my pullers will work.

 

[FJ60Cam]

A: Use Kurt’s they have the grease channels.

B: The key keeps the bushings fixed in place, and the center arm pivoting around the bushing. If the bushing pivots with the center arm, the pin will wear out the inside hole, leading to slop you can’t tighten up.

C: Have you tried one of these? Will it fit? On stubborn ones, I get the puller really tight, then hit the joint from opposing sides with two ball peen hammers. Usually does it.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Before this gets outta control, could you mail the new cruiseroutfitters shaft & bushings to me so I can get the key sizes, both for you and for forum posterity? Metric keys are $1-2 ea.
Beats the arse ripping $20/ea for a used key from SOR.com

PS: I can send back with this box of other stuff that's going out soon.

 

[wngrog]

Yeah I’ll send you this stuff Good idea.

I tossed another parts carburetor in the box as well.

 

[wngrog]

A: Use Kurt’s they have the grease channels.

B: The key keeps the bushings fixed in place, and the center arm pivoting around the bushing. If the bushing pivots with the center arm, the pin will wear out the inside hole, leading to slop you can’t tighten up.

C: Have you tried one of these? Will it fit? On stubborn ones, I get the puller really tight, then hit the joint from opposing sides with two ball peen hammers. Usually does it.

View attachment 1731626

What would be the name of that type puller? It would fit. Yes.

 

[FJ60Cam]

What would be the name of that type puller? It would fit. Yes.

Not sure what it’s called. Here’s the model. It’s my go-to for TRE’s...

 

[Michael B]

That tie rod end removal tool is available at Advance Auto parts in their tool loaner program. Basically you can use it for free or buy it if you would like to keep it.

 

[wngrog]

I can’t do it at this point until I get the keys so I ordered one.

I might can use this to get these rear spring pins out too. Those things are really stuck.

 

[jfz80]

Love the dedication and determination to keep fighting till you win. Im sure the GOAT appreciates as well. And another vote for that OTC TRE puller; has worked like a champ for me.

30,000 miles on a 45 is serious driving.

Less than an oil change away from hitting 60k but its really slowed down since picking up a camry dd.

Do you think thats premature? Probably 5 years ago and was a mix of sor rubber 55 bushings and napa premium rubber bushings. Just seems soon for 99.5% pavement but then again if the soa were not be perfectly square i could see added wear, though it tracks well.

 

[wngrog]

Love the dedication and determination to keep fighting till you win. Im sure the GOAT appreciates as well. And another vote for that OTC TRE puller; has worked like a champ for me.



Less than an oil change away from hitting 60k but its really slowed down since picking up a camry dd.

Do you think thats premature? Probably 5 years ago and was a mix of sor rubber 55 bushings and napa premium rubber bushings. Just seems soon for 99.5% pavement but then again if the soa were not be perfectly square i could see added wear, though it tracks well.

Thank you!

No 30,000 miles on SOA bushings is great.

 

[wngrog]

I was about to order some OME springs from Kurt for my Pig when I mentioned to @wct49 that I saw BFG had a 7.50r-16 KM3’s

He had them the next day for me to “look at” to see if they would be a good fit for the Goat.

Dammit. I’m so weak.

 

[a.greenspan]

7.50r-16`s are the way to go ....

.... I nailed 4 new Dunlop Qualifier with tubes under my 45 Coca Cola can ....some weeks ago.

 

[47coeman]

I was about to order some OME springs from Kurt for my Pig when I mentioned to @wct49 that I saw BFG had a 7.50r-16 KM3’s

He had them the next day for me to “look at” to see if they would be a good fit for the Goat.

Dammit. I’m so weak.

View attachment 1733185

Great looking tires just curious as to what size they are 31” or 33”s

 

[whitey45]

More on those tires, real world measurements, etc!

 

[wngrog]

Great looking tires just curious as to what size they are 31” or 33”s

I’m waiting on my @Racer65 wheels before I can mount them and see.

Rolling them up to the 235/85-16 Yokohama MTs on my FJ40 (KM3 unmourned) they look a tiny bit shorter and a bit more narrow.

The Yokohama’s are very tall. I pulled all the numbers on them versus my 33x10.50-15’s and they are taller.

So. I’ll say a true 32” tire is the likely answer.

I’ll get better info once mounted.

This is them next to a 33x10.50 15 KM3

 

[wngrog]

This is the info on the 235/85-16 Yokohama’s

I was looking for an MT that wasn’t quite as big as the Yokohama’s and I think these fit the bill.

City Racer 16” wheels with Yokohama M/T G2003s

 

[cuencanolenny]

Dove into the front yesterday. A couple of the small 9mm hardlines are frozen so it took a bit more dissection to install the soft line

Then I installed a cylinder wrong and realized I did one on the rear the same way.

View attachment 1685108


FYI. Bleeders out.

When I opened the right rear back up I noticed the pads were still wet looking. Seems a slow leak I had back there soaked into the shoes. These shoes would never have held. I’m glad I messed up and had to go back in.

View attachment 1685110

View attachment 1685109

One other thing I did not do Sunday in the rear was to adjust the new cylinders out to where the drum fits on snug. That will save me a ton of headache getting them adjusted.

Your springs should be front on the outside, rear on the inside. It keeps equal pressure on the shoes.

 

[wngrog]

Your springs should be front on the outside, rear on the inside. It keeps equal pressure on the shoes.

Only if you have shoe nails which my yeah does not have.

 

[47coeman]

I’m waiting on my @Racer65 wheels before I can mount them and see.

Rolling them up to the 235/85-16 Yokohama MTs on my FJ40 (KM3 unmourned) they look a tiny bit shorter and a bit more narrow.

The Yokohama’s are very tall. I pulled all the numbers on them versus my 33x10.50-15’s and they are taller.

So. I’ll say a true 32” tire is the likely answer.

I’ll get better info once mounted.

View attachment 1733251


This is them next to a 33x10.50 15 KM3

View attachment 1733252

Waiting for the final mounting to see but looking real good from here.