My old 40 with the 327 had a loppy cam in it and with open headers it was sweet!
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New cams are 300-400 and you usually need need the beehive springs. So more money.
I don't want to change my gearing because I like the highway performance. I have a slush box so it isn't as necessary to go ultra low. I live at 2k on the freeway, and monkeying around the trails I'm between 2500-3500. I might go to 4k in the new motor, but I would still be paying money for performance I would never see.
I don't want to change my gearing because I like the highway performance. I have a slush box so it isn't as necessary to go ultra low. I live at 2k on the freeway, and monkeying around the trails I'm between 2500-3500. I might go to 4k in the new motor, but I would still be paying money for performance I would never see.
What's that dip down right out the gate? Is that the trade off for the big jump up at 2500?
Is that aftermarket or OEM?
OEM is about 180-220. After market is 300+
BTR starts their stock cam graph at 3500 RPM and their cam at 2200.
Texas Speed starts both cams at 1800 so you see that dip.
Yep, see that now.
So, you guys know more about this than me, at what point do you start floating valves with the bigger cams? Slipper slope.
Nothing we are talking about here is a "big" cam.
Yeah, I didn't think so. Stock valve train, etc. will work with any of these cams.
They do have a TSP Stage 2 Low Lift 212/218, .550"/.550" Truck Camshaft that would work with the stock stuff but it won’t have near the chop and springs are cheap enough.
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RUSH55
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The reason being that .504 of an inch is only .030 - .040 more than stock, not requiring a major overhaul of the upper valve train.
Anything over about .550 starts needing the upgraded valve springs, pushrods, rockers, etc...
The stock valve train can handle .500” of lift pretty easily. You might sacrifice some longevity, but with as much as you really drive your 55 (or as much as I drive mine), that longevity is relative. At ~5,000 miles a year (on a good year), it could be 10 years or more before valve train wear becomes enough of an issue to address.
Who has ten years left anyway. 
Good tech you guys. I like learning when I can.
Good tech you guys. I like learning when I can.
You guys are not much fun...
These are all the not fun having cams.
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Texas Speed & Performance is your one-stop shop for all LS and Gen 5 LT1 & LT4 performance parts and engines! We are among the largest LS and Gen 5 LT1/LT4-specific shops in the country, and we machine and assemble all of our engines, camshafts, and Precision Race Components cylinder heads in...
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Probably some truth to that too.C’mon Jim, I know you’re playing devil’s advocate!
In all honesty the chunky cam you pulled out was most likely running just fine down the road the last time that engine ran so this is all just guys being guys trying to shame each other into spending money on cool stuff.
With that said the only time I would look at stock cam profiles is if I had a stock pickup and the cam went flat and I just need to get it back on the road and didn’t want to deal with all the re-tuning stuff.
None of that applies to you with this engine so why not look at some of the options out there that make better power and better drivability?
This gets my vote for the low lift cam options, good power and a little chop.Okay, I will
Texas Speed Low Lift 216/220, .550/.550 Camshaft With Your Choice of Lobe Separation
This cam gained 53.4 HP and 22.0 TQ at the flywheel on our in-house SuperFlow 902 engine dyno using an otherwise stock 5.3L engine!
This cam uses proprietary TSP lobe profiles that are designed to utilize the factory GM LS6 single beehive valve springs and your factory pushrods, making them the most affordable cam package on the market!
1400-6000 RPM Power Band; This is an excellent performance camshaft with a slight lope at idle! We've had tons of customers select this camshaft when looking for a cam that drives well and can be daily driven without any issues!
