Builds Fly By Night (14 Viewers)

[RUSH55]

On the inner fender too? I knew you filled the firewall hole, just don’t remember about the inner fender. I guess it would make sense for you to fill it unless there was something else to utilize it for

 

[xtiaan2000]

Killer! That thing is going to be clean!

ive got all those pics of scrapdaddy’s on speed dial.

 

[scrapdaddy]

On the inner fender too?

Oops, no I made a plate and rubber gasket for that. I'm not sure why now, if it for a reason or just an after thought.

Probably an after thought and I know I wanted it blocked for the cold air intake to motor. I didn't want hot air going down the inner fender to the air cleaner.

Also, I can't remember if there are any bolts in there holding the inner fender to the body?

 

[RUSH55]

Stripped the undercoating.

Dunb

 

[RUSH55]

Also, got the tap in earlier this week to thread the hole for t-case front output selector shaft detent. Mud info was spot-on -
1/2” drill bit, 15mmx1.5 thread

 

[RUSH55]

Meanwhile...
I had to pull off Cruiser shenanigans so I could work on replacing a door. More fun than I can handle

 

[RUSH55]

Back to Cruiser Content...

Springs are back. Attempting to restrain my excitement. VSS looks to have done a stand-up job on what I wanted. I should have had them swap out the military clamps on the front springs for the open bolted style, but I can take care of that. Also should have had them bevel the main leaf wrap on the front springs, but again, I can get that taken care of too. Other than that, everything appears to be spot on.
New front shackles came in too.

 

[bobm]

Nice . Why you don't like military wrap?? Was that a local spring place???

 

[RUSH55]

Yeah, somewhat local to me shop down in Phoenix (1-1/2 hr drive).
The military wraps hold the leaves together too tightly, while the open bolted clamps allow the leaves a little more flex and freedom, especially during droop.

 

[bobm]

Droop

 

[PabloCruise]

I have a 34mm case.
I also run the Marks over/under gears, Marks only uses the 34mm shaft and gives a bushing for the 38mm case.

Learnt something new today! I never knew they ran a bushing for 38mm...

 

[PabloCruise]

So, anyways, here’s some more tech.

The front output selector shafts are actually the same length, it’s just that the forks are oriented differently and some different machining done at the ends.

The High-Low selector shafts are oriented differently as well.

The high range gear set on the 38 is larger. Haven’t counted teeth yet to verify gear ratios.

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High range should be 1:1 for either case, eh?

Can't believe I haven't been in here reading for a month!

July has kept me hopping - can't wait to see what you have been up to!

 

[PabloCruise]

Yes! Been a great learning curve.

So my machinist friend Jerry, opened up the input side bore of the 38mm case to clear the adapter’s output bearing retainer snap ring, basically to match the 34mm case. Fits perfectly.

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Nice! So you are giving your Piggy the 38mm shaft?

 

[PabloCruise]

Another great thread for reference. One of the many reasons to love this site! Thank you @Hugh Heifer

Split Case Rebuild

I got a free split transfer case here on mud for a project and looked around but did not see a good thread on the rebuild of a split case so I figured I would do one. The plan is an H55 and a split case in a 40 that I am going ground up on and the truck is to be a camping/lite trail and...

forum.ih8mud.com

I love that build! Don't forget the little freeze plug that @Hugh Heifer forgot...

 

[PabloCruise]

The undercoating still needs stripped off of the underside of the inner and outer fenders. While I had them out, decided to try to clean the stubborn buildup of dirt that has stained the sides of the inner fenders with vinegar. This seems to be another thing a lot of Cruisers have in common from years of driving around on dirt roads and such. The silicas like to bond themselves to the paint and resist the normal auto store cleaning products.
This was more of a trial for other guys to see, as all this on mine will be painted over anyways.
So yeah, vinegar and and a green scrubby. And elbow grease.

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That would be pretty cool to make the engine compartment all purty...

 

[PabloCruise]

On the inner fender too? I knew you filled the firewall hole, just don’t remember about the inner fender. I guess it would make sense for you to fill it unless there was something else to utilize it for

Are you getting rid of the blower motor?

 

[PabloCruise]

Stripped the undercoating.

☑Dunb

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I can't wait to see how it all goes back together!
It sounds like getting the doghouse to align is what separates the men from the boys.
I was already living on borrowed time in my project, so luckily I was not tempted to go that extra step...

 

[PabloCruise]

Also, got the tap in earlier this week to thread the hole for t-case front output selector shaft detent. Mud info was spot-on -
1/2” drill bit, 15mmx1.5 thread

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Is this part of the vacuum to mechanical conversion?

 

[RUSH55]

High range should be 1:1 for either case, eh?

Can't believe I haven't been in here reading for a month!

July has kept me hopping - can't wait to see what you have been up to!

Good morning TJ️
Yes, both cases have a 1:1 high range ratio. Some of the aftermarket gear sets change the high range ratios. I’m looking to sink a 3:1 low-range set that Kurt sells when the budget recovers which still retains a 1:1 high range. There is a 3.3:1 set that reduces the high range by 10%. That seems purpose defeating to me when trying to get the best of both worlds in highway speed/rpm and trail crawl ability. The thinking could actually be that if a guy were to retain the 3:70 diff gears, the 10% high range reduction would give you the feel of 4:10 diffs.

Nice! So you are giving your Piggy the 38mm shaft?

Ha, yes, he’ll soon have a 38mm shaft. I’ve always been told that chicks dig girth.

Is this part of the vacuum to mechanical conversion?

Yeah, this was one of the required modifications, otherwise there’s no way to secure the selector shaft in your preferred position.

I love that build! Don't forget the little freeze plug that @Hugh Heifer forgot...

I’ll have to find that part and read it again. I’ve noticed the plug on the back side of the hi/low selector shaft galley, but don’t recall the issue Hugh had

Are you getting rid of the blower motor?

Planning on running a Restomod or Vintage Air unit (can’t remember which).

I can't wait to see how it all goes back together!
It sounds like getting the doghouse to align is what separates the men from the boys.
I was already living on borrowed time in my project, so luckily I was not tempted to go that extra step...

Hopefully the fact that this is the same assembly that came off the pig will make that part not so bad
Hopefully the rotisserie hasn’t stretched out the the tub side mounting flange too bad

 

[PabloCruise]

Good morning TJ
Yes, both cases have a 1:1 high range ratio. Some of the aftermarket gear sets change the high range ratios. I’m looking to sink a 3:1 low-range set that Kurt sells when the budget recovers which still retains a 1:1 high range. There is a 3.3:1 set that reduces the high range by 10%. That seems purpose defeating to me when trying to get the best of both worlds in highway speed/rpm and trail crawl ability. The thinking could actually be that if a guy were to retain the 3:70 diff gears, the 10% high range reduction would give you the feel of 4:10 diffs.

Good morning!
I think I am thinking about the Marks/Kurts gears in a different way than you...
I thought a 10% reduction would feel like an additional overdrive - not underdrive?
So running 4.11:1s would feel closer to the 3.7 if you had the reduction high range in your case?